Posts Tagged ‘Mavrommatis’

Tasting Wines from Greece at Mavrommátis

Tuesday, April 4th, 2017
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We’ve been to wine tastings at the Greek restaurant Mavrommátis, and we always leave looking forward to their next one. This year, on March 27, thirteen wine producers from Greece presented their wines during a special tasting at this handsome establishment on rue Daubenton in the 5th arrondissement.

Pouring Estate Argyros

Pouring Estate Argyros
Photograph by Tom Reeves

Thirteen wine stands — that’s a lot of wine! To limit alcohol intake, a professional taster will swirl the wine in his mouth, do a retro-olfaction trick (a way of tasting the wine without swallowing), and then spit the wine into a special bucket. I like to take small sips and swallow, the way wine is supposed to be drunk. So, to limit our consumption of alcohol, my wife and I chose to visit only three stands and taste no more than three wines at each stand.

Stefanos Georgas of Estate Argyros

Stefanos Georgas of Estate Argyros
Photograph by Tom Reeves

We first visited the stand of Stefanos Georgas, where we sipped a crisp white wine called AOC Santorin Assyrtiko Argyros. “The best wine for under $30 according to The New York Times,” Mr. Georgas declared. And I believe him. We then tasted his IGP Cyclades Argyros Atlantis, a very slightly-sweet rosé with an agreeable taste that I couldn’t identify. “Strawberry,” Mr. Georgas said. Finally, we tasted a Vinsanto 20 ans Domain Argyros, a blend of three sun-dried grape varieties, aged in oak casks for seventeen years and in the bottle for three. Intensely sweet, it was like drinking ambrosia. We purchased a bottle of both the Assyrtiko Argyros and the Vinsanto, took them home, and sipped away.

Effie Kallinikidou

Effie Kallinikidou for Domain Lyrarakis
Photograph by Tom Reeves

“Let’s go to the far side of the restaurant to see what we can find,” I said to my wife. There, in the corner, we found Effie Kallinikidou, export manager for Lyrarakis. This estate is located on Crete, the largest island of Greece. We tasted IGP Crète Domain Lyrarakis Vilana, a light, delicately-flavored white wine of 100% Vilana grape. I liked it because it was delicately flavored, while my wife would have preferred something with more character. We purchased a bottle and drank it as an apéritif before dinner.

Athanasios S. Parparoussis of Domain Parparoussis
Photograph by Tom Reeves

Finally, we walked by the stand of Athanasios S. Parparoussis, who was pouring IGP Achaïa Domain Parparoussis Dons de Dionysas Sideritis. This white wine had a slight licorice flavor and was not too dry for our taste. We both enjoyed this one.

A week after the tasting, the Greek wines that we purchased are almost gone. Happily, we can restock at La Cave Mavrommátis at 47, rue Censier, down the street and around the corner from the restaurant.

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Tasting Wine from the Stelios Kechris Estate at Mavrommatis

Friday, April 3rd, 2015
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Stelios Kechris - Winemaker

Stelios Kechris – Winemaker
Photograph by www.DiscoverParis.net

Last Friday we attended a presentation of the wines of Stelios Kechris, a winemaker from Kalochori – a small town in Thessaloniki in the Macedonia region of Greece. The event was held at the wine shop Mavrommatis, located near the foot of rue Mouffetard in the 5th arrondissement of Paris.

Quatrième Dimension "t" and Kechribari

Quatrième dimension “t” and Kechribari
Photograph by www.DiscoverParis.net

We tasted two whites and two reds and ended up buying a bottle of Kechribari, a white wine made from 100% Roditis grape; and Quatrième Dimension “t”, a red wine made from 50% Xinomavro, 30% Merlot, and 20% Cabernet Sauvignon. Back home, we served these with the meals that we prepared and, at the same time, recorded our appreciations of the wines.

Tasting the Kechribari was a real surprise for me because it expressed a light fragrance and flavor of pine resin. Until that moment, I had never sampled a resinated Greek wine at the Mavrommatis cellar. In fact, one of the winemakers whom I met there told me that resin was traditionally used to cover up defects in wine and that a good wine maker avoids the use of this substance. However, Kechribari was a pleasure to drink – with a robe of brilliant pale gold, it tasted light, slightly tannic, and a bit peppery with notes of lime. For me, this wine would be a refreshing apéritif served chilled on a warm summer’s day, or would be appropriately served with a chicken or pasta dish.

At the tasting, the Quatrième Dimension “t” expressed an aroma and flavor of cooked red fruits. We purchased a bottle, took it home, and opened it the next day. This time, the cooked red-fruit sensation that we had appreciated at the tasting was missing. However, the following day we tried it again and voilà! – the flavor had returned. It only needed a few hours after opening for its full flavors to develop. Medium-bodied and dry, this wine enhanced our appreciation of the steak that we prepared that evening.

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Tasting Greek Wines at Mavrommatis

Tuesday, November 25th, 2014
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Mavrommatis

Mavrommatis Restaurant
Photograph by www.DiscoverParis.net

Monique and I were recently invited to a wine tasting at Mavrommatis, a fine-dining restaurant that specializes in Greek cuisine in the 5th arrondissement. When we arrived, we found that eleven vineyard owners from all over Greece were presenting their wines. During the two hours that we were there, we were able to meet five of them.

Petros Markantonatos - Gentilini Estate

Petros Markantonatos – Gentilini Estate
Photograph by www.DiscoverParis.net

Our first stop was the table manned by Petros Markantonatos of the Gentilini Estate in Kefalonia, the largest of the Ionian Islands in western Greece. I had blogged about his wine almost two years ago, when I had the opportunity to taste it at the first Mavrommatis wine tasting that I attended.

We tasted the Robola 2013 and the Gentilini Eclipse 2012. The first is a crisp white wine made from Robola grapes that grow in rocky soil on the slopes of Mount Aenos. The second is a red wine made from Mavrodaphine grapes. The wine is matured for at least 12 months in French and American oak barrels. Petros served us two versions of this red — the second one was softer due to the additional time spent in stainless steel vats, mixing of lees, and hand bottling. We preferred the first version, which was more assertive than the second.

Stefanos Georgas - Estate Argyros

Stefanos Georgas – Estate Argyros
Photograph by www.DiscoverParis.net

Our next stop was at the table of Stefanos Georgas, who represents the Argyros Estate, a winery on the island of Santorini in the southern Aegean Sea.

We tasted Assyrtiki 2013, made from the variety of the same name. A dry white wine, we found flavors of mineral and iodide with notes of pepper. We also tried Estate Argyros 2010 made from 100% Mavrotragano variety. Aged in French oak barrels, it is a dry red wine with notes of cherry.

Vassilis and Antonia Papagiannakos

Vassilis and Antonia Papagiannakos
Photograph by www.DiscoverParis.net

Moving to the other side of the restaurant, we stopped at the table of Vassilis and Antonia Papagiannakos, whose winery is located in the Athens region.

We tasted a Markopoulo 2013 made from Savatiano grapes, a variety that Mr Papagiannakos told us has been growing in the Athens region for over 3000 years. Markopoulo is a dry white wine that has a pear scent with a light touch of anise. We also tasted an Erythros 2011 made from 70% Agiorgitiko and 30% Cabernet Sauvignon. This is a dry red wine with a lovely cherry aroma.

Mr Papagiannakos uses the rooster as an emblem on his wine labels in honor of his father, who would rise every day and go off to the vineyard to work as soon as the roosted crowed.

Christos Aïdarinis - Owner and Michael Michailides - Winemaker

Christos Aïdarinis – Owner and Michael Michailides – Winemaker
Photograph by www.DiscoverParis.net

Our next stop was at the table of Aïdarinis Estate, where we met Christos Aïdarinis, the owner, and Michael Michailides, the wine maker. The winery is located in the region of Goumenissa in northern Greece.

We tasted a Rosé Aïdarini, made from Xinomavro grapes. Unlike the rosés that we have tried in France, this one had a forceful attack with flavors of red fruit. Very nice. We also tasted a Goumenissa, a dry red that we enjoyed, made from 70% Xinomavro and 30% Negoska grapes.

George Diamantakos

George Diamantakos
Photograph by www.DiscoverParis.net

At the next table, we met George Diamantakos of the Diamantakos Estate in the Macedonia region of northern Greece.

We tasted Preknadi 2013, made from a grape variety of the same name. Mr. Diamantakos told us that the name means “freckle face,” because the grapes have spots on them. He said that the variety was almost forgotten and that he is trying to revive it. A white wine, it is amazingly soft with a light floral aroma. Although Mr. Diamantakos said that it has a high alcohol content (13%), I didn’t perceive that.

We also tried Naoussa 2010 (Xinomavro grapes), a red wine with green tomato and spicy flavors.

We wrapped up our tasting with dessert wines. We ventured back to the Papagiannakos table and tried their Melia, a sweet white wine that we found particularly mellow, like honey. We then went back to the table for the Argyros Estate and tasted two Vinsantos — sweet wines that are aged for four years in an oak barrel barrel and then an additional year in the bottle. They had a delicious caramel flavor.

Dimitri Sotiropoulos - Waiter at Mavrommatis

Dimitri Sotiropoulos – Waiter at Mavrommatis
Photograph by www.DiscoverParis.net

While guests at the tasting sipped wine, Dimitri, waiter at Mavrommatis, served hors d’œuvres.

Eugenia Stefanidi – Sommelier at Mavrommatis and Monique Y. Wells

Eugenia Stefanidi – Sommelier at Mavrommatis and Monique Y. Wells
Photograph by www.DiscoverParis.net

We also had the opportunity to talk with Eugenia Stefanidi, sommelier at Mavrommatis. She was serving Mercouri, another of the wines that we’ve tasted at previous events. It was every bit as good as we remembered!

We left the restaurant feeling rather satisfied that we had had the opportunity not only to taste some great wine, but to meet the producers who had flown in all the way from Greece to present and pour their fine products.

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Tasting Wine from the Kir-Yianna Estate at Mavrommatis

Wednesday, June 4th, 2014
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Stellios Boutaris and Dionysos Mavrommatis

Stellios Boutaris, Director of Kir-Yianna and Dionysos Mavrommatis, Co-founder of Mavrommatis
Photograph by www.DiscoverParis.net

Just two weeks ago I had the opportunity to attend a wine tasting at Mavrommatis, our favorite Greek wine shop on rue Censier in the 5th arrondissement. The wines that were proposed that day came from an estate in northwestern Greece called Kir-Yianna. I met Stellios Boutaris, the director of the vineyard, during the event.

Eugenia Stefanidi - Sommelier at Mavrommatis

Eugenia Stefanidi – Sommelier at Mavrommatis
Photograph by www.DiscoverParis.net

Sommelier Eugenia Stefanidi served the wines — three whites and three reds — and gave a description of each.  She hails from Greece and studied wine at SupAgro in Montpellier and the Cordon Bleu in Paris.

Presentation of Keftes

Presentation of Keftes
Photograph by www.DiscoverParis.net

To accompany the wines, the Mavrommatis delicatessen next door served a plate of warm keftes (croquettes). Some were filled with cheese, some with spinach, and others with meat…all were appetizing!  I expected nothing less, though — my wife and I often purchase Greek take-out food there when we don’t have the time or inclination to do our own cooking at home.

Yianakohori 2010

Yianakohori 2010
Kir-Yianna Estate

Photograph by www.DiscoverParis.net

Selecting amongst the excellent wines that I tasted, I decided to purchase a bottle of Yianakohori 2010. Before serving it with dinner, my wife and I conducted our own tasting at home.  We noted the following:

Color: deep red-purple
Aroma: ripe-red fruit
Mouth feel: medium-bodied, soft and round followed by a slight tannic sensation.
Flavors: there was a dispute about this — my wife perceived spiciness, whereas I perceived leather.

Despite our different opinions about the flavors, we both enjoyed this wine!

Kir-Yianna
Yianakohori Naoussa
GR-59200 Νaoussa

Mavrommatis
49, rue Censier
75005 Paris

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Tasting Parparoussis Estate Wines at Mavrommatis

Wednesday, April 2nd, 2014
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Thanassis Parparoussis

Thanassis Parparoussis – Winemaker
Photograph by www.DiscoverParis.net

We recently had the pleasure of tasting Greek wines from the Parparoussis Estate, a winery near the port city of Patras on the north coast of the Peloponnese. The tasting was hosted by Mavrommatis, a wine shop located at 49, rue Censier in the 5th arrondissement of Paris.

The Parparoussis winery was founded in 1974. Second-generation winemaker Thanassis Parparoussis (pictured above) presented a remarkable sampling of reds, whites, and fortified wines to the delight of invitees and passersby.

The Gifts of Dionysus - Sideritis

The Gifts of Dionysus
A Sideritis Varital

Photograph by www.DiscoverParis

We were quite impressed by a white table wine made from Sideritis, a grape that is cultivated throughout the Peloponnese. Called “Τα Δώρα του Διονύσου” (The Gifts of Dionysus), it is appropriately named. It is a crisp wine, very pale gold in color, with a mild citrus bouquet and delicate minerality. We thought that it might accompany goat cheese well, so we purchased a bottle to taste later.

We then went to the nearby Fromagerie Veron and purchased a pyramid of Valançay goat cheese from La Ferme des Cossonnières. This cheese has a smooth, chalky texture, is slightly pungent, and tastes somewhat like rich cottage cheese. Back home we tasted both together and learned that our hunch was right—the wine and the cheese married quite well. Thank you, Dionysus, for your gift!

Mavrommatis
49, rue Censier
75005 Paris

Fromagerie Patrick Veron
105 Rue Mouffetard
75005 Paris

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Tasting Belvedere Wine from the Mercouri Estate

Wednesday, February 19th, 2014
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Belvedere

Belvedere by Mercouri Estate
Photograph by www.DiscoverParis.net

At the wine tasting of Mercouri Estate wines that we attended at Mavrommatis two weeks ago, we purchased a bottle of Belvedere, a sweet white wine, and took it home to try.

Belvedere is produced from Malvasia Aromatica grapes. After the harvest, the grapes are allowed to dry in the sun for roughly five to eight days. After pressing and fermentation, the wine is aged for twelve months in new French oak casks. The 500cl bottle that we purchased is from the 2010 production, only 700 of which were produced in that year.

We chilled the wine and then tasted it. A clear, golden wine with brilliant reflections, it has a fruity-sweet aroma of ripe pear and butterscotch. On the palate it is quite sweet, yet at the same time slightly tart.

This is a great wine to serve for dessert.

Mavrommatis
49, rue Censier
75005 Paris

Mercouri Estate
Korakochori Ilias
27100 Greece

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Tasting Mercouri Estate Wine at Mavrommatis

Wednesday, February 12th, 2014
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Last Thursday we attended a wine tasting hosted by Mavrommatis, a wine cave on rue Censier in the 5th arrondissement. There, we met Vassilis Kanellakopoulos and his son Dimitris, who were exhibiting a number of wines from their vineyard in Greece.

Dimitris Kanellakopoulos (left) - Monique Y. Wells (center) - Vassilis Kanellakopoulos (right)

From left to right:
Dimitris Kanellakopoulos – Monique Y. Wells – Vassilis Kanellakopoulos

Photography by www.DiscoverParis.net

Vassilis Kanellakopoulos is managing director of the Mercouri Estate, a vineyard in the Western Peloponnese on the plateau of the Ichthis peninsula. About 150 years ago, founder Theodoros Mercouri purchased the land and planted Refosco grape-cuttings that he brought back from Northern Italy. Today, the fourth generation Kanellakopoulos brothers, Vassilis and Christos, continue the family tradition.

Vassilis Kanellakopoulos

Vassilis Kanellakopoulos
Photograph by www.DiscoverParis.net

As a young man, Mr. Kanellakopoulos did not enter directly into the family’s wine-making business. Instead, he studied civil engineering at Athens Technical University and then earned a Master’s degree at Surrey University in Guildford near London. He returned to Greece where he worked for a few years as an engineer. At some point, he returned to the family property where he and his brother replanted, renovated, expanded, and transformed the vineyard into a modern winery. Today, they produce 120,000 bottles of wine per year from a total area of 16 hectares.

Mercouri

Domaine Mercouri
Photograph by www.DiscoverParis.net

Mr. Kanellakopoulos poured several wines at the event. The first red that he served was the basic wine of the estate, the Domaine Mercouri. Produced from Refosco and Mavrodaphne grapes, it is aged twelve months in French oak casks, and then bottled and allowed to mature for several more months.

I was impressed by its assertive red-fruit and leathery aroma. Dark red-purple in color, it is medium-bodied and dry, but not too tannic. Monique declared that she detected a slight “fizz” on the tongue. We purchased a bottle and paired it with sautéed breast of duck the following evening. It was a perfect match!

I will describe another wine that we purchased that day in another blog. Stay tuned…

Mavrommatis
49, rue Censier
75005 Paris

Mercouri Estate
Korakochori Ilias
27100 Greece

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Tasting Gentilini (a Greek Wine) at Mavrommatis

Wednesday, December 18th, 2013
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La Cave Mavrammotis

La Cave Mavrammotis
Photograph by www.DiscoverParis.net

On the evening of November 29, Monique and I attended a wine tasting organized by Mavrommatis at its wine shop at 49, rue Censier in the 5th arrondissement. I arrived thinking that I would taste the resinated wine (wine flavored with pine resin) that I have heard is popular in Greece. To my surprise, I learned that the wine produced by the winemakers whom I met there, Marianna and Petros Markantonatos, is not flavored with resin. Rather, their goal is to produce wines that don’t use resin, which can hide imperfections. They want their wines to compete on the European and American markets with the best.

Marianna and Petros Markantonatos

Marianna and Petros Markantonatos
Photograph by www.DiscoverParis.net

Marianna and Petros’ estate, called Gentilini, is located on the island of Cephalonia. They say that the soil there, which is chalky and shallow and lies above a limestone bedrock, is the best type of terroir for fine wine production. Some of their vineyards are on gradients so steep that it requires the agility of a goat to harvest the grapes.

Presently, Marianna and Petro farm over ten hectares of vineyards that are planted with Sauvignon Blanc, Moschofilero (white grape of Greek origins with a pink/purple skin), Syrah, Muscat, and Mavrodaphne (black wine grape indigenous to the Achaea region). They also manage two vineyards planted with Robola and Tsaoussi, two grape varieties indigenous to the island.

Marianna’s father founded the Gentilini winery forty years ago. She and her husband took it over in 2002. Their vineyards are located around the winery, and all vinification and bottling is done there. The wine is aged in stainless-steel vats or oak barrels that come from the best cooperage houses of Europe.

Robola 2011

Robola 2011
Photograph by www.DiscoverParis.net

We tasted a number of white wines at Mavrommatis, including a 2011 vintage of Robola. Pale yellow with a hint of green, it had a fresh, light citrus aroma and flavor. It was dry, crisp, and slightly peppery at the finish.

Genitlini Eclipse 2011

Genitlini Eclipse 2011
Photograph by www.DiscoverParis.net

We also tasted the Gentilini Eclipse, made from the Mavrodaphine grape variety. With a clear, dark-purple color, it was medium-bodied with a fruity aroma, cherry flavor, and peppery aftertaste.

We were quite impressed with the quality of the wines that we sampled that evening. We found them to be as good as any French wines that we have tasted in their price range.

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A Cocktail Dînatoire at Mavrommatis

Wednesday, November 27th, 2013
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Mavrommatis

Mavrommatis
Photograph by www.DiscoverParis.net

I was happy when I recently received an invitation to attend a cocktail dînatoire at Mavrommatis, a Greek restaurant located at 42, rue Daubenton in the 5th arrondissement in Paris. This would be an opportunity to learn more about Greek food and to get reacquainted with the restaurant that I have reviewed on two occasions for our Paris Insights – The Restaurant Review page.

I last reviewed the restaurant on March 19, 2012, and at that time was quite pleased with the cuisine, ambiance, and service there. “Has the food changed? Has it gotten even better?” I wondered. I was soon to find out that it would exceed all expectations!

Dining Room

Dining Room
Photograph by www.DiscoverParis.net

I was one of the first to arrive and had a chance to stroll freely around the two handsome dining rooms before other guests came. I admired the tables set with food and drink and read some of the table cards that announced the names of the dishes:

Crevette obsiblue, pates avoine, jus de crustacé, condiment roquette, artichaut et mastiha (Obsiblue prawns with oat pasta, crustacean juice, rocket, artichoke and mastic condiment)
Bar de ligne mariné aux algues et citron (Bass marinated in algae and lemon)
Saint Jacques grillées marinées aux épices (Grilled scallops marinated in spices)
Huitres au raifort, crème de choux fleur et mastiha (Oysters with horseradish, cream of cauliflower and mastic)
Chocolat et mastiha (Chocolate and mastic)
Crème de lait à la fleur d’oranger et masthia (Cream of rice with orange blossom and mastic)
Riz au lait et mastiha (Rice pudding with mastic)

One can readily see from the names of these dishes that masthia (mastic) was a featured ingredient. Mastic is a resin from the mastic tree, traditionally produced on the Greek island of Chios. To my taste, it has a mild flavor of pine.

Enosis and Metaxa

Enosis and Metaxa
Photograph by www.DiscoverParis.net

I started the evening with a cocktail made from Metaxa, a grape brandy fortified with Muscat grape, herbs, and rose petals. The cocktail was mixed with Enosis (a mastic liqueur), tonic water, and mint. It was a refreshing beverage with a nutty flavor.

Hot Entrées

Hot Entrées
Photograph by www.DiscoverParis.net

Waiters began circulating, presenting platters of warm, savory appetizers, including keftèdes and crispy pittas.

Red Mullet in Mousse of Lobster

Red Mullet in Mousse of Lobster
Photograph by www.DiscoverParis.net

I also enjoyed a goblet of red mullet and tarmasalata (fish paste) in a lobster mousse flavored with mastic, all topped with a layer of green-apple gelatin.

Chocolates with Mastic

Chocolates with Mastic
Photograph by www.DiscoverParis.net

By the time dessert was served, I was quite sated, but couldn’t resist trying a dark chocolate ganache. It, too, was flavored with mastic.

I met two of the founders of Mavrommatis, several members of the staff, and several VIPs.

Mavrommatis Brothers - Andréas and Evagoras

Mavrommatis Brothers – Andréas and Evagoras
Photograph by www.DiscoverParis.net

Christophe Roy - Restaurant Manager

Christophe Roy – Restaurant Manager
Photograph by www.DiscoverParis.net

Marios Lyssiotis - Ambassador of Cyprus to France - Anna Papasawa - Consul

Marios Lyssiotis – Ambassador of Cyprus to France
Anna Papasawa – Consul

Photograph by www.DiscoverParis.net

Hélène Moussoulos - Communauté Chypriote de France

Hélène Moussoulos
Chargée des Relations Publiques for the Cypriot Community of France

Photograph by www.DiscoverParis.net

Madame Moussoulos told me that in her opinion Mavrommatis serves the best Mediterranean cuisine in all of Europe. (That would include Cyprus and Greece!)

A good time was had by all!

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Not Your Ordinary Chiclets

Wednesday, March 28th, 2012
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Elma Classic Chewing Gum

Elma Classic Chewing Gum
Photo by www.DiscoverParis.net

We stopped by Mavrommatis, a Greek delicatessen near rue Mouffetard, and purchased a pack of chewing gum called Elma. It is made from mastic, a resin known to the people of the Eastern Mediterranean since Antiquity. It was the first natural chewing gum of the ancient world!

Flavored with mastic oil, the gum has a menthol-like, resinous flavor. It requires more effort to chew than your ordinary Chiclets.

Mavrommatis
47, rue Censier
75005 Paris
Tel.: 01.45.35.96.50

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