Fun on the Seine with Fête de la Gastronomie

October 5th, 2011
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Beer Tasting on the Seine

Beer Tasting on the Seine
Photo by www.DiscoverParis.net

France celebrated its first Fête de la Gastronomie on Friday, September 23. In Paris there were many special events to celebrate this day including a “2 for 1” offer in some of Paris’ top restaurants (during the week of September 19-25), cheese tastings, chocolate tastings, and more!

I chose to attend three events, two of which were organized around the theme of coffee. I will report on these at another time. The third was an event that took place on a boat called Six-Huit that was docked at quai Montebello across the river from Notre-Dame Cathedral. Here, from 7:30 p.m. until who knows what time the party broke up, a number of artisanal beer brewers from all over France came to pour their brews for beer enthusiasts. For the price of 21€, one had the right to taste four beers and a platter of either cheese or charcuterie. It was a good price for the privilege of sipping suds while meeting some of the movers and shakers of the micro-brewery industry in France and while standing on a péniche with an incredible view of the cathedral.

I met Laurent Mousson, beer aficionado and vice-president of the European Beer Consumers Union, who told me that artisanal micro-brewers were advised that the French would never accept the naturally bitter beers that they wanted to produce. They pressed ahead anyway, and according to the manifesto posted (in French) on their Web site, the industry is experiencing healthy growth.

Laurent Mousson, Beer Aficionado

Laurent Mousson, Beer Aficionado
Photo by www.DiscoverParis.net

I met Marjorie Jacobi, a brewer from Blainville-sur-l’Eau in the Lorraine region (in eastern France) whose California lager that she calls La Véronique Lucienne was a pleasure to drink. It was dry and slightly sweet at the same time, with notes of bitter orange. When I told her that I was from California, she was especially pleased to learn that I liked her beer.

Marjorie Jacobi, Micro-brewer

Marjorie Jacobi, Micro-brewer
Photo by www.DiscoverParis.net

I met Nathalie, a Parisian who brews her own beers.

Nathalie, Private Beer Brewer in Paris

Nathalie, Private Beer Brewer in Paris
Photo by www.DiscoverParis.net

I met a group of beer lovers from an association called Amis de la Bière – Ile de France. They love to talk about beer and drink it at social occasions that they organize in the Ile de France region.

And I met Cyril Lalloum, who organizes social events around beer that he and his partner Laurent Cicurel call Les Soirées Maltées. It was they who organized that night’s event.

Around 10:00 p.m. I noted the marvelous effect that beer has upon a person who begins his evening on an almost imperceptibly rocking boat. Although I had drunk only four gavroches (a glass with a capacity of 12.5cl), I had the very real sensation that the boat was rocking even more! Fearing that more drinking might cause the boat to capsize, I set my glass down, bade farewell to new friends, and set off into the Paris night.

On the Boat - Péniche Six-Huit

On the Boat
Péniche Six-Huit
Photo by www.DiscoverParis.net

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In This Month’s Paris Insights Newsletter:
May ’68 – An Eyewitness Account

October 1st, 2011
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Place de la Sorbonne

Place de la Sorbonne
Photo courtesy of Wikicommons - Dinkum

For the October edition of Paris Insights we interview William Brustein, Vice Provost for Global Strategies and International Affairs and Professor of Sociology at The Ohio State University. He recounts his experience as a student in France during the May ’68 uprising.

Our newsletter is published monthly as a downloadable PDF file. It is available only to paid subscribers for an annual subscription fee of $30.

If you are not a paid subscriber and would like to download the newsletter, please click here. Enter promotional code 11473309154 to receive a $5 discount off the price of an annual subscription.

Bonne Lecture!

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The Floating Market of Paris

September 28th, 2011
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View of Marché Flottant and Brass Band from Bridge

View of Marché Flottant and Brass Band from Bridge
Photo by www.DiscoverParis.net

On the weekend of September 16 – 18 an event called Les Marchés Flottants du Sud-Ouest was held at quai Montebello, a quay that lies across the river from Notre-Dame Cathedral. Over fifty food producers from southwest France were there, displaying their products and offering them for tasting and for sale. Three French administrative départements were represented: Gers, Lot-et-Garonne, and Tarn-et-Garonne. It was an excellent occasion for tasting some of France’s regional produce!

I did not get there until early Sunday afternoon, but nonetheless arrived at a good time. Stopping at pont de l’Archevêché, a bridge that overlooks the quay, I watched and listened to the brass band Beni Can Podi playing like there was no tomorrow. This link to their tune Il a fait de la moto will give an idea of their music. I watched them for the longest time!

Beni Can Podi Brass Band

Beni Can Podi Brass Band
Photo by www.DiscoverParis.net

From the bridge I could see that the market was not floating as its name would suggest, but rather was on dry land. In spite of this disappointment, I resolved to find the stairway leading down to the quay so that I could join the festival.

When I arrived, I could see tents set up along the quay where the producers were displaying their products. Although there were lots of people milling about, it was fairly easy to move from one stand to another. I was surprised about this, because these kinds of events can attract a big crowd, making it difficult to progress.

People at the Stands

People at the Stands
Photo by www.DiscoverParis.com

I came upon Glosek Gourmet, which sold desserts from Gascony including babas, canelés, and crêpes all soaked in syrup made from sugared Armagnac. What a great idea! I decided then and there to start my lunch with dessert and purchased a plate of the confections for 2€. A good price for three sweet treats!

Baba Gascon

Baba Gascon
Photo by www.DiscoverParis.net

Next, I came upon cheese producer Tome du Ramier selling (and offering tastings of) two kinds of cheeses: Ramier Roux and Tome du Ramier, both made from raw cow’s milk. Ramier Roux is a soft, slightly sweet cheese and Tome du Ramier is a rustic cheese with a strong flavor. I ordered a tartine (not pictured) made of the latter for 2€. It was a country-style, open-faced sandwich consisting of a slice of cheese atop a thin slice of bread. A hearty snack!

Assiette Dégustation

Assiette Dégustation
Photo by www.DiscoverParis.net

Then I came upon the stand Melon de Lectoure, selling beautiful melons called Les Puits d’Amour. I purchased a plate of diced melon for 2€ and enjoyed the orange-colored flesh that seemed similar to cantaloupe but was sweeter and juicier. Food always tastes better when you are in Paris!

Le Puits d'Amour

Le Puits d'Amour
Photo by www.DiscoverParis.net

Following this wonderful meal, I got in line for a free distribution of fruit from the region. The queue was long, but it moved quickly. I received a bag full of produce containing two bunches of grapes (probably Chasselas), four apples (they looked and tasted like Pink Lady), and two bulbs of garlic.

Distributing Grapes

Distributing Grapes
Photo by www.DiscoverParis.net

People sat all along the quay drinking wine and enjoying the food that they had purchased. It was a perfect day for a picnic!

Picnic on the Quay

Picnic on the Quay
Photo by www.DiscoverParis.net

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The Floating Market of Paris

An Afternoon with Goran Bregovic and His Orchestra

September 27th, 2011
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Goran Bregovic and Orchestra

Goran Bregovic and Orchestra
Photo by www.DiscoverParis.net

I must admit that before the afternoon of Sunday, September 25 I had never heard the music of guitarist, singer, orchestra leader, and composer Goran Bregovic. This is also an admission that I have not seen the award-winning movies Time of the Gypsies (1988) and Arizona Dream (1993) for which he composed the musical scores.

The concert that I attended on Sunday changed all that.

The event was held at the Cirque d’Hiver Bouglione, a building that looks like a circus tent located in the 11th arrondissement of Paris. Bregovic performed in the arena with his Orchestre des Mariages et des Enterrements (Marriage and Funeral Orchestra), a group consisting of a women’s choir (two Bulgarian singers), a men’s choir (six Slavic singers), a brass section, a string ensemble, and a drummer (who also sang). Altogether there were about twenty performers on stage!

Bulgarian Women's Choir

Bulgarian Women's Choir
Photo by www.DiscoverParis.net

Slavic Men's Choir

Slavic Men's Choir
Photo by www.DiscoverParis.net

They began the concert with a slow piece, somewhat dreary, which belied the kind of explosive music that they were capable of. All of a sudden they stopped and broke into pulse-pounding fanfare of what sounded to me like raucous gypsy music. This brought screams of delight from the audience, whose enthusiasm demonstrated that they were already quite familiar with the music that Bregovic would perform that afternoon. For the rest of the roughly two-and-one-half-hour concert Bregovic and his orchestra played music that provoked emotions ranging from high excitement to sober reflection, oftentimes all in the same piece!

Audience Reaction

Audience Reaction
Photo by www.DiscoverParis.net

To my ear, the sometimes strident and volatile brass pieces resembled mariachi music of Mexico; the temperate and restrained singing of the Bulgarian women’s choir resembled music from Arabia. For the longest time, Bregovic was a guitarist in a popular Yugoslav rock band. The music that his orchestra performed on Sunday reflected not only the influence of hard rock, but also polyphony from Bulgaria and gypsy fanfare. What a fantastic combination!

Goran Bregovic

Goran Bregovic
Photo by www.DiscoverParis.net

The people at Festival d’Ile-de-France deserve commendation for bringing this marvelous group to Paris to perform. Click here to learn about its program.

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An Afternoon with Goran Bregovic and His Orchestra

Sunday Morning on Rue Mouffetard

September 25th, 2011
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Raymond Pouring Clos Cibonne Cuvée Tendence Rosé 2010

Raymond Pouring Clos Cibonne
Cuvée Tendence Rosé 2010
Photo by www.DiscoverParis.net

Every Sunday morning Raymond and his colleagues are there, offering wine tastings in front of the shop La Fontaine aux Vins.

This morning Raymond was pouring a rosé from Clos Cibonne, a vineyard in Provence. The rosé is made from a cépage called Tibouren, a variety of red grape whose history dates back to antiquity.

Raymond’s dictum seemed fitting for the occasion: “Buvez du vin en pleine rue Mouffetard est quand même plus agréable.” (Drinking wine on rue Mouffetard is, after all, more enjoyable.)

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Foodspotting at Le Pearl with Lindsey Tramuta

September 24th, 2011
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Le Pearl

Le Pearl
Photo by www.DiscoverParis.net

Foodspotting is an iPhone app that allows people to find specific dishes that they like in any neighborhood that they happen to be in. It is another step in the evolution of the “satisfy me now because I can’t wait” culture that we have quickly learned to take for granted and from which we will expect more in the future. Gone are the days in which we saw the benefit of surveying restaurant reviews and putting careful thought into choosing the restaurant at which we might like to dine, taking into account important factors such as ambiance, service, and cuisine. Now we can consult our iPhone for a quick look at what others have said about a particular dish for which we have a hankering and go immediately to the restaurant that is serving it.

On Friday, September 9, we attended a Foodspotting kickoff that Lindsey Tramuta organized at Le Pearl.

Lindsey Tramuta

Lindsey Tramuta
Photo by www.DiscoverParis.net

The restaurant served five samplers from its menu for the occasion. For the modest price of 9.50€ we received a plate containing shrimp cocktail, a chicken club sandwich, diced Cantal cheese, a tiny hamburger, and melon balls. We were pleased with the presentation, the freshness, and taste of these samplers and plan to return to the restaurant to dine.

Food Platter

Food Platter
Photo by www.DiscoverParis.net

For dessert, we ordered Douceur de Speculoos. The dish consisted of a mound of crumbled Speculoos topped by a disk-shaped layer of whipped, custard-like cream. Three dollops of whipped cream and sliced, fresh strawberries garnished the plate. This is a simple dish, and I thought that it might have been conceived of as a dessert that could quickly be made to serve to a child, but it was a real treat for the sweet tooth that I am!

Douceur de Speculoos

Douceur de Speculoos
Photo by www.DiscoverParis.net

Cocktails were served at happy-hour prices, including one made with Blue Curacao, gin, lemon juice and lemon-flavored soda pop (the latter is called limonade in French). Another cocktail that I enjoyed was made with chocolate and coconut liqueurs.

Chocolate and Coconut Liqueur Cocktail

Chocolate and Coconut Liqueur Cocktail
Photo by www.DiscoverParis.net

For the event, dining tables had been placed at the front and sides of the room, leaving a space in the center so that people could gather there for cocktail chit-chat. The restaurant does not have any curtains or carpet to absorb sounds. Animated conversation and jazz playing over the sound system combined to make the room quite noisy.

Cocktail Chit-chat

Cocktail Chit-chat
Photo by www.DiscoverParis.net

As stated above, we plan to dine again at this restaurant, order from the menu, and write a review of our experience there. The review will be posted on our Paris Insights restaurant review page and will be available for your perusal…that is if you can wait that long!

Le Pearl
46, rue Jean-Pierre Thimbaud
75011 Paris
Telephone: 01.48.07.48.98
Metro: Parmentier (Line 3)
Open Mon to Friday Noon – 3:00 p.m. and 6:30 p.m. – 2:00 a.m.
Open Sat 6:30 p.m. – 2:00 a.m.
Open Sun Noon – 3:00 p.m.

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Foodspotting at Le Pearl with Lindsey Tramuta

Musical Duo Is Off to Africa

September 23rd, 2011
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Jeff Hoffman and Keri Cryst

Jeff Hoffman and Keri Cryst
Photo by www.DiscoverParis.net

I met Keri Chryst and Jeff Hoffman at a U.S. State Department Africa Regional Services cocktail party yesterday evening and learned that they will be leaving soon for Swaziland. They will spend a week there presenting a series of workshops and concerts to local musicians, school children, as well as the general public.

This will be the first in a series of collaborations between the Jazz Vocal Academy International, Keri (vocals) & Jeff (guitar and vocals), and Africa Regional Services, wherein they will present a variety of concert programs, including the The French Connection, an educational program developed by Keri.

The party was in honor of the new Regional Bureau Chief, Dale Prince.

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Musical Duo Is Off to Africa

Paris Is for (Coffee) Lovers

September 21st, 2011
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Verlet

Verlet
Photo by www.DiscoverParis.net

The folks at HostelBrokers.com recently invited me to contribute a guest blog for their September “Love Paris”campaign. I was happy to comply and wrote an article about one of my favorite subjects: coffee. Click here to read about Verlet, a store that sells fresh-roasted coffee beans and offers sit-down service where you can order an espresso made from any of the twenty-seven coffees of origin that the shop sells.

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The Terres de Bretagne Music Festival
Part 5
The Music

September 16th, 2011
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Alan Stivell

Alan Stivell Quartet
From left to right:
Gaëtan Grandjean, guitar
Alan Stivell, Celtic harp
Photo by www.DiscoverParis.net

In parts 1, 2, and 3 I wrote about the spectacular setting for the Terres de Bretagne music festival, and in part 4 I wrote about the food served there. In today’s post, I discuss the music, which was my principal reason for attending the festival.

Hundreds of people (as well as some eighty performers) braved uncertain weather to hear fifteen groups play traditional Breton folk music as well as jazz, and in the case of the group N’Diale, Breton-Malian fusion.

There were so many groups that I didn’t get to hear them all. The performances took place from 12:45 p.m. to 6:00 p.m. at six different locations on the expansive domain. It took a considerable effort to walk from one spot to another. Also, I spent a lot of time exploring the grounds—especially at the top of the hill where the château d’en haut (château on the hill) is located—so I missed many of the concerts.

The first group that I listened to was Penndù Skoulm, a quintet consisting of two men playing the violin; one playing the flute; one, the guitar; and one, the uillean pipe. I found their music lively, but somewhat monotonous. This did not seem to be the opinion of the other spectators, because many of them got up to dance!

Jacky Molard violon - Pennoù Skoulm

Jacky Molard, violin - Pennoù Skoulm
Photo by www.DiscoverParis.net

Dancing to the Music of Pennou Skoulm

Dancing to the Music of Pennoù Skoulm
Photo by www.DiscoverParis.net

Another group that I watched was Trio Zon, which performed a jazzy kind of Celtic music in front of the château near the top of the hill. I guess that I don’t care much for Breton music because I wandered away after a few minutes to look for something else.

Trio Zon

Trio Zon
From left to right:
Grégoire Hennebelle, violin
Faustine Audebert, vocals
Youen Parathoen, accordion
Photo by www.DiscoverParis.net

Happily, for my taste in music, the group N’Diale performed later in the afternoon. I blogged about them on June 18, after I had seen them at a pre-launch concert sponsored by Festival d’Ile de France. N’Diale was formed through the collaboration of a Breton group called the Jacky Morland Quartet (Jacky Morland appeared with Pennoù Skoulm earlier) and a Malian group called the Foune Diarra Trio. The music that they play is a marvelous fusion of music from Brittany and Mali.

N'Diale

N'Diale
From left to right:
Yannic Jory, saxophone
Jacky Morland, violin,
Foune Diarra, vocals
Photo by www.DiscoverParis.net

Toward the end of the day I saw the Trio Brou-Hamon-Quimbert, whose energetic call-and-response, a capella singing delighted the crowd. Watch them perform in my video below. And finally, I saw the musician who is probably the best-know performer of Breton music, Alan Stivell. I liked his jazzy music, but unfortunately, the concert was cut short by a torrent of rain.

Festival d’Ile-de-France sponsors fantastic concerts! Click here to learn more about its program.

View my video of the festival!

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The Terres de Bretagne Music Festival
Part 5
The Music

AnyTrip.com Interviews Tom Reeves of Discover Paris!

September 15th, 2011
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Tom Reeves

Tom Reeves, President of Discover Paris!
Photo by www.DiscoverParis.net

The hotel reservation service AnyTrip.com has just published an interview of me as part of its Love Paris promotional campaign. Click here to read the interview and here to learn about AnyTrip’s Cheesy Travel Photo contest. You might win a two-night stay in a Paris hotel!

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AnyTrip.com Interviews Tom Reeves of Discover Paris!