44 rue Vivienne
Part I – The Apartment

November 12th, 2013
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44 Rue Vivienne

44 Rue Vivienne
Photograph by www.DiscoverParis.net

We were recently contacted by Habitat Parisien, an agency that rents apartments for short-term stays in Paris. Would we, they asked, be interested in staying in one of their apartments for a weekend in November in exchange for a blog about the experience?

Seizing an opportunity to explore a Parisian neighborhood that we knew little about, we replied affirmatively. We selected a large (68m2) apartment on rue Vivienne in the 2nd arrondissement, an area in which we rarely venture.

One of the charming aspects about the apartment that we selected is that rue Vivienne, lined with shops that trade in bullion and gold coins, doesn’t look like a street on which anybody lives. The façades look old, and we learned later that the street and a number of buildings on it date from the 17th century. An acquaintance, whom we happened to bump into on our last day and who lives in the neighborhood, affirmed that he likes the area precisely because it looks uninhabited. “You push through old doors, climb creaky stairs, and find yourself in a beautiful apartment.”

Mathais Presenting Monique with Roses

Mathais Presenting Monique with Roses
Photograph by www.DiscoverParis.net

Mathias, who works for Habitat Parisien, greeted us at 5:00 o’clock on Friday evening in front of the building and ushered us two flights up a well-worn, wooden stairway to the second-floor landing. There, two heavy, imposing doors stood directly in front of us. Mathias unlocked one of them, we pushed through, and voilà!…we stepped into a large, handsome apartment.

Mathias presented Monique with the key to the apartment and followed by giving her two long-stemmed roses. A lovely gesture! He walked us through the apartment, pointing out its features, and took care to explain how the different appliances worked. He helped us connect our computer to the apartment’s WiFi and tested the phone before leaving us to enjoy our evening.

“Vivienne,” as the apartment is called, is equipped with a dishwasher, clothes washer, Jacuzzi tub, and wide-screen television. There is also a large enclosed balcony that provides a lovely view of rue Vivienne and its intersection with boulevard Montmartre. We didn’t use it much, but that first evening we learned that it serves as an effective buffer against traffic noise. The apartment was quiet and we slept well.

The bare, hardwood, herring-bone floor made wonderful creaking noises as we stepped on it — it was a pleasure to walk across in bare feet. Because of the high ceilings, we were concerned that we might not be warm enough, particularly because the weather was cold and damp on that first day. We were pleased to learn that two electric heaters on the wall adjacent to the balcony worked extremely well — we were quite warm and didn’t need to turn on the third heater located near the kitchen.

The Jacuzzi gave a great massage and we appreciated the towel warmer in the bathroom. The open kitchen was adequate, with a dishwasher, coffee maker, microwave, and toaster. Although we chose to eat out rather than prepare our own meals, we noted that there were plenty of plates and glassware.

Tomorrow…the party that we threw for our friends.

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Meet Thierry Poincin – Owner of En Vrac

November 6th, 2013
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Thierry Poincin

Thierry Poincin, Owner of En Vrac
Photograph by www.DiscoverParis.net

Thierry Poincin operates En Vrac, a cave à vin in the 18th arrondissement of Paris. In this month’s Le Bon Goût, learn why travelers who seek an authentic French dining experience will find it here, far off the bustling tourist circuit of central Paris.

Le Bon Goût is a monthly feature of our newsletter, Paris Insights. To view a preview of the newsletter, click here.

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Bonne lecture!

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The Eternal Quest for Beautiful Fesses – Our Fesses of the Month

November 5th, 2013
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Tom Taking a Photograph of the Pediment of Crédit Lyonnais Bank

Tom Taking a Photograph of the Pediment of Crédit Lyonnais Bank
Photograph by www.DiscoverParis.net

We found this month’s featured fanny on a pediment high above boulevard des Italiens in the 2nd arrondissement. The allegorical figure to whom these fesses belong is part of a group sculpted by Camille Lefèvre in 1880-1883.

Follow the link below for a close-up view!

pinterest.com/pin/411586853416461175/

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A Conversation with Ferdinand Ezembé

November 1st, 2013
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Ferdinand Ezembé

Dr. Ferdinand Ezembé, psychologist and president of CAPDiv, a cultural organization that promotes diversity in France, granted Discover Paris! an exclusive interview on what every day life is like for blacks in Paris. Read his frank reply to our questions in this month’s Paris Insights.

To view a preview of the newsletter, click here.

Paris Insights is published monthly as a downloadable PDF file. It is available only to paid subscribers for an annual subscription fee of $30.

If you are not a paid subscriber and would like to download the newsletter, please click here. Enter promotional code 11473309154 to receive a $5 discount off the price of an annual subscription.

Bonne lecture!

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Kouglof by Gerard Mulot

October 30th, 2013
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Kouglof by Gerard Mulot

Kouglof by Gerard Mulot
Photograph by www.DiscoverParis.net

Pastry-maker Gerard Mulot was born and raised in the Lorraine, a region in eastern France. He first tasted a buttery-rich kouglof, a specialty of that region and of Eastern Europe, when he was ten years old. Years later, when he became a baker, he vowed to create kouglofs with the same rich taste that he experienced at that moment in his childhood.

We purchased the brioche-like cake from his bakery on rue de Seine and took it home to taste. It had a golden-brown, soft crust and a yellow, bread-like interior. We found the cake to be buttery, but slightly dry (as brioches tend to be). The dryness was compensated by moist, delicately-sweetened raisins incorporated in the crumb. We ate the kouglof for dessert, but it would make a great pastry to serve with 4 o’clock tea.

Gerard Mulot
76, rue de Seine
75006 Paris
Telephone: 01.43.26.85.77

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The Search for the Eastern Passage

October 26th, 2013
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Seeking the Eastern Passage

The Search for the Eastern Passage
Photograph by www.DiscoverParis.net

Just as brave 15th century explorers searched for the Northwest Passage to China, our intrepid blogger Tom Reeves can be seen here searching for the eastern passage to the Croulebarbe Tower in Paris.

In the late 1950s, architect Edouard Albert erected this apartment building near Place d’Italie. His design for the tower, quickly dubbed “the first skyscraper in Paris,” included a wide esplanade leading to its eastern entrance. Sadly, the esplanade was never built, and in this photograph we see Tom peeking forlornly over the sturdy iron fence that blocks the eastern approach.

Download this month’s Paris Insights to learn why the eastern passage to this remarkable structure was never built.

Paris Insights is published monthly as a downloadable PDF file. It is available only to paid subscribers for an annual subscription fee of $30.

If you are not a paid subscriber and would like to download the newsletter, please click here. Enter promotional code 11473309154 to receive a $5 discount off the price of an annual subscription.

Bonne lecture!

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An Evening of Chocolate Tasting with Les Amants du Chocolat de la Couronne Parisienne

October 23rd, 2013
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One of the advantages of blogging about chocolate tastings is that one meets people who invite you to…more chocolate tastings!

It was at the hot chocolate demonstration at Mococha where I met Sabine Malet, secretary of the chocolate appreciation club Les Amants du Chocolat de la Couronne Parisienne. Sabine told me about her club’s tasting that would feature the chocolate of Laurence Dali, who operates O Mille et une Fèves in the 20th arrondissement of Paris. Naturally, I wanted to be part of that.

La Petite Fabrique

La Petite Fabrique
Photograph by www.DiscoverParis.net

The tasting was held at an organic restaurant called La Petite Fabrique at 15, rue des Vignoles, not too far from Laurence’s shop. About fifteen people were in attendance and all were in a jovial mood. Laurence set the tone by distributing bars of Santo Domingo 70% Criollo chocolate, one of the finest chocolates available. She supplied enough to taste to our hearts’ content while she talked about how she quit her desk job at the age of 40 to plunge into the world of chocolate making. After taking a two-year program at the prestigious Grégoire Ferrandi cooking school in Paris, she opened her own boutique. And the rest is history!

Laurence makes fruit, spice, and nut-coated chocolate bars, molded chocolates, chocolate-dipped candied fruit, chocolate-dipped dried fruit, and pralines. She doesn’t, however, make cream-filled chocolates (ganaches). She uses 64% cocoa as the base of her chocolate bars (except the Criollo). During the tasting, she distributed many different samples of all of these varieties — one at a time.

Chocolate-dipped Candied Ginger

Chocolate-dipped Candied Ginger
Photograph by www.DiscoverParis.net

I enjoyed the chocolate-dipped candied ginger. It yielded softly to the bite.

Espelette-dusted Chocolate

Espelette-dusted Chocolate
Photograph by www.DiscoverParis.net

The Espelette-dusted chocolate bar had a spicy sting, while the crumbled Speculoos top of another bar provided crunchy, caramelized counterpoint to the chocolate. The chocolate-dipped candied orange peel came through with full orange flavor, while the covering of the chocolate-dipped dried fig overwhelmed the flavor of the fig.

There was much more to taste. It was a chocolate lover’s dream!

Virginie

Virginie
Photograph by www.DiscoverParis.net

At the end of the tasting it was time for dinner. The waitress, Virginie, took our orders and we tucked into a delicious vegetarian meal.

Around the Table

Around the Table
Photograph by www.DiscoverParis.net

A good time was had by all!

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The Scramble for Africa – The 1885 Berlin Conference

October 22nd, 2013
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1895 Berlin Conference

From left to right: Joël Calmettes – Filmmaker, Mathilde Leduc-Grimaldi – Curator, Brice Ahounou – Anthropologist and Journalist
Photograph by www.DiscoverParis.net

The Dapper Museum held a screening last Saturday afternoon of the film Berlin 1885, la ruée sur l’Afrique (Berlin 1885 – The Scramble for Africa). Following the 90-minute projection, a lively discussion ensued between Joël Calmettes (the filmmaker), Mathilde Leduc-Grimaldi (curator of the Belgium Royal Museum for Central Africa), Brice Ahounou (anthropologist and journalist), and members of the audience.

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Why is There a Two-story Gap in the Croulebarbe Tower?

October 19th, 2013
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Croulebarbe Tower

Croulebarbe Tower
Photograph by www.DiscoverParis.net

In the late 1950s, architect Edouard Albert erected a tall apartment building near Place d’Italie. The tower was quickly dubbed “the first skyscraper in Paris.”

In this photo, we see the two-story gap that Albert left in the seventh and eighth floors of the building. Read about this remarkable structure in this month’s Paris Insights and learn why he designed it this way.

To view a preview of the newsletter, click here.

Paris Insights is published monthly as a downloadable PDF file. It is available only to paid subscribers for an annual subscription fee of $30.

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An Evening of Beer and Food Pairing with Elisabeth Pierre

October 16th, 2013
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Elisabeth Pierre

Elisabeth Pierre, Bièreologue
Photograph by www.DiscoverParis.net

I’ve had the occasion to blog about Elisabeth Pierre, bièreologue, before. Apart from her work as a consultant in the beer industry, she organizes tastings of artisanal beer around different gastronomic themes. On a recent Thursday evening I got a chance to attend her first-ever beer and food-pairing dinner. Called “Diner – Bières et Mets,” it took place at Tempero, a restaurant that I recently reviewed for the Discover Paris! newsletter Paris Insights.

Alessandra Montagne

Chef Alessandra Montagne (left) in the Kitchen
Photograph by www.DiscoverParis.net

While Alessandra Montagne and her husband Olivier (not pictured) were in the kitchen preparing a great four-course meal, Elisabeth was in the dining room explaining that we would get to taste five beers that evening, each one specially selected to accompany the dishes that we would enjoy. Why five beers when there were only four courses? Because the main course was a pork dish that was prepared three different ways. Two different beers would be served with it.

Here is how the dishes and the beers were presented:

Starter – Velouté de moules (velouté of mussles) paired with Le Tournemine Real Ale du Berry.
Main course – Porc en 3 façons (pork prepared three ways) paired with La Yote Ale Blonde du Berrye and Combe aux Loups, a brown lager.
Cheese plate – Chèvre et Bleu (goat and blue cheeses) paired with L’Inquiète Stout du Berry
Dessert Royal au chocolat, glace au malte (rich chocolate dessert with a scoop of malt-flavored ice cream) paired with Griottines Cervoise.

Royal au chocolat, glace au malte

Royal au chocolat, glace au malte
Photograph by www.DiscoverParis.net

I enjoyed all the dishes and all the beers and thought that the pairings had been well conceived. But if I had to choose a favorite pairing it would be the Royal au chocolat, glace au malte paired with the Griottines Cervoise, a wheat beer flavored with Morello cherry. The chocolate was smooth and rich, the ice cream had a surprising malt flavor, and the beer had a wonderful not-too-sweet cherry taste.

Jean-Simon Landry

Jean-Simon Landry
Photograph by www.DiscoverParis.net

Two other beer industry professionals were present at the dinner. Jean-Simon Landry represents a microbrewery in Quebec called Le Naufrageur. He passed through Paris after having attended the Festival Mondiale de Bière Europe, held in Mulhouse, France in mid-September.

Johann Villedieu

Johann Villedieu
Photograph by www.DiscoverParis.net

Johann Villedieu of Plaisirs et Qualité announced that his company will soon begin distributing artisanal beer to Parisian restaurants. This was indeed good news, because I have often tried to order craft beers in restaurants only to be told that they were not served there.

A good time was had by all!

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Visit Elisabeth Pierre’s Web site La Fille de l’Orge for information (in French) about her upcoming activities centered around the appreciation of beer.

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We participate in Wanderfood Wednesdays. Head over there to explore food from around the world!

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