Le Forum des Images—A Cultural Mecca for Cinephiles

August 19th, 2010
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Le Forum des Images
(c) Discover Paris!

Founded in 1988, the Forum des Images has amassed a great collection of films about Paris, as well as works drawn from various audiovisual collections. Recently remodeled, it reopened in December 2008 with an annual operating budget of 7.5 million euros, enabling it to propose an ambitious program of activities and events to an appreciative, film-loving public.

Read about this culture Mecca for cinephiles in this month’s Paris, Past and Present, a special feature of our newsletter Paris Insights.

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Coffee Tasting at Café Procope – Part 2

August 15th, 2010
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Ready for Tasting
(c) Discover Paris!

The cupping began in earnest. The tasting was a blind one, with the coffees unidentifiable except by number. We first looked at the unroasted beans to determine whether there were any blemishes. We then inspected the roasted beans. These were ground, and we inspected the quality and aroma of the grind. Then each grind was put into its own French press, and hot water poured in. We sniffed each brew and noted our observations about the aromas that we perceived. Then the brew was stirred and we sniffed again. Finally, each brew was poured into a separate cup. Since there were eight persons, this required forty cups!

At the end of the cupping procedure, the coffee growers were asked to leave the room and I never saw them again. After they left, there was open discussion about the coffees that we had just had tasted. The verdict about the best coffee was unanimous: it was the Geisha coffee from the Don Pachi Estate. What each person perceived in aroma and taste, however, varied widely from person to person. Comments on this coffee included “good equilibrium,” “beautiful complexity,” “body not too strong,” and “extremely floral.” Others identified specific aromas, such as malt, caramel, and Muscat grape. Indeed, it was one’s duty to identify specific aromas, as there were aromas listed on the evaluation sheet to be checked. I, for one, failed at this. The best that I could truthfully say was that it tasted “fruity.” To be sure, I found this coffee to have a wonderful compelling flavor. I would like to be able to try it again and again until I can identify specific aromas. Unfortunately, Geisha is a rare bean in the world of coffee, and I probably will not come across it again.

At the end of the cupping exercise, which lasted about two hours, Gloria announced that we had just attended the longest tasting in the world. She explained that at professional tastings, where coffee is selected for purchase, the tasting is very rapid, because a lot of coffees have to be sampled. I was happy to have gotten the opportunity to participate in this slow tasting and to have sampled the marvelous Geisha bean!

This is the last post in the series entitled “Coffee Tasting at Café Procope”.

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Armen Petrossian

August 12th, 2010
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Armen Petrossian
Proprietor of Le 144
(c)Discover Paris!

In this month’s Le Bon Goût we write about Armen Petrossian, proprietor of Le 144, a fine-dining restaurant located in the 7th arrondissement of Paris. Located just above the Petrossian boutique, a caviar shop founded by his father and uncle in the 1920s, Le 144 serves a balance of foods and spices from different cultures, notably French and African.

Read our article in the August edition of Paris Insights. To enter a subscription, click here.

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Coffee Tasting at Café Procope – Part 1

August 8th, 2010
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Interior of Café Procope
(c) Discover Paris!

In July, I participated in a professional coffee tasting at the oldest coffee house in Paris. Organized by Gloria Montenegro of La Caféothèque de Paris, the event is part of an ongoing effort of an association called Connaissance du Café to teach the art of tasting and appreciating fine coffees grown on specifically identified plantations (cafés fins provenant de terroirs d’appellation). Eight persons showed up for the tasting, plus two coffee growers from Panama—a husband and wife team from the Don Pachi Estate in the Boquete region of the country. They brought with them four different coffees, one of which is the almost-mythical Panama Geisha, considered by some coffee lovers to be the best coffee in the world. There were two “amateurs” at the tasting, a young man named Tony, who wants to open a coffee shop, and me. The others appeared to be professionals in the field of coffee selection by their demeanor, by the content of their conversation…and by the brown aprons that they wore bearing the words “L’Académie de Caféologie.” As the tasting unfolded, I realized that I had a lot to learn about coffee!

The Distinguished Coffee-tasting Panel
(c) Discover Paris!

First of all, coffee tasting is properly called “cupping.” During cupping, one evaluates coffee by the look of the bean before it is ground, the aroma after it is ground, and the aroma after hot water is poured into the grind. Then each participant is poured a small amount into a cup, from which the aroma and taste are judged. During this evaluation process, one records his appreciations on a specially printed table called “Critères de qualité” (quality criteria). The criteria are quite numerous, and include such things as altitude at which the coffee is grown (in the case of Geicha, it is 1650 meters), visual inspection of the grain, and references to different aromas (spices, flower, cereals, dried fruit, and so on).

We judged five different coffees, the four that the Panamanian couple brought with them and a fifth that was a coffee that can be purchased at supermarkets. Before the tasting started, Gloria introduced the couple and asked them to talk about their coffee plantation. They produce seven or eight different varieties of coffee on their 45-hectare estate whose soil is rich in volcanic minerals. Seventy-five tons of coffee are produced each year. Impressive!

Francisco and Ivette Serracin
Coffee Growers in Panama
(c) Discover Paris!

To be continued…

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Our Free Weekly Restaurant Review – Au Boeuf Couronné

August 3rd, 2010
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Au Boeuf Courroné
(c) Discover Paris!

Located on avenue Jean-Jaurès, just across the street from the former site of the Villette slaughterhouse and meat market, Le Boeuf Couronné is a nostalgic reminder of what bourgeois Parisian dining must have been like in the late 19th century.

See our review at the following link: http://www.parisinsights.com/restaurants.php.

Four Chocolates

August 2nd, 2010
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Four Chocolates
(c) Discover Paris!

Yesterday, we purchased four chocolates from Mococha, our favorite chocolate shop on rue Mouffetard: Dôme praliné fondant, Carré blanc avec pépites de praliné, Ganache pain d’épices, and Dôme vert avec caramel. All are made by Patrice Chapon, who won the Grand Prix de la Mairie de Paris 2003.

The Dôme praliné fondant (upper right in photo) has an assertive flavor. It is composed of a crispy mix of nuts (almonds, hazelnut, and pistachio) enrobed in dark chocolate. A touch of salt (sel de Guérande) gives it zest.

The Carré blanc contains a sweet hazelnut filling. The confection is topped with grains of crunchy hazelnut seed. The subtle flavors of the white chocolate and light praliné filling blend into a delicate taste sensation!

The Ganache pain d’épices with its intense spice-cake flavor of cloves and nutmeg stirs memories of the Christmas season!

Finally, the Dôme vert avec caramel (lower left in photo), is made with smoked and salted butter, lime, and dark chocolate. The finely speckled, tangy lime-chocolate dome contains a soft filling of delicious caramel.

Marie Gantois, proprietor of the shop, told us that it will close for the summer holiday from August 9 through August 23.

An Interview with Dante James

August 1st, 2010
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An award-winning, independent filmmaker, Dante James recently wrote and directed Harlem in Montmartre, a documentary that traces the phenomenal development of jazz in France from the end of WWI to the end of WWII. We had the opportunity to interview him shortly after the presentation of his film at the France Noire/Black France Film Festival in Paris. Read our article in the August edition of the Paris Insights newsletter.

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Bonne lecture!

Le Bon Goût – Our Monthly Restaurant Review

July 28th, 2010
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Chef Rougui Dia
© Discover Paris!

On the first of each month, we publish a restaurant review, which we call “Le Bon Goût,” for the readers of our Paris Insights newsletter. In it, we not only describe our dining experience, but also write about the chef or the proprietor, and illustrate the review with a photograph of him or her.

We have been reviewing restaurants for many years, and have met many chefs and proprietors who are passionate about the art of preparing great cuisine. By writing about them, we hope that we can communicate their passion to you, their customer.

In the August edition of Le Bon Goût we will review Le 144, a fine-dining restaurant located in the 7th arrondissement. Chef Rougui Dia, born in Paris to Senegalese parents, learned the flavors and savors of Senegalese cuisine in her mother’s kitchen. She has been head chef of the restaurant since 2005.

Access to the review is available to paid subscribers of our newsletter. To enter a subscription, click here.

Visit to a Phantom Palace – Part 3

July 25th, 2010
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Tea Pavilion in Chinagora Garden
(c) Discover Paris!

In its hour of glory, the garden must have been a fabulous place where one could take tea in a pavilion that overlooks the sublime landscape. Yet it became evident why the garden was supposed to be off limits when one of the wooden guardrails of a footbridge yielded to the slightest pressure.

I later found information on the Internet that part of the Chinagora project is being used as a warehouse. This would seem to be confirmed by the presence of a guard whom I spotted, standing in front of an office marked “Sécurité” on a side street. I also read that flight crews from China Airlines stay in the hotel. Anything to bring in some revenue!

It is pretty clear why the Chinagora project failed. Although lying only five miles from the heart of Paris, it is not serviced by convenient transportation. The closest metro stop is about 15 minutes away by foot. Two buses stop nearby, but Bus 125 only goes to the edge of Paris; and Bus 325 only goes as far as the National Library. In effect, anyone who wants to travel between Chinagora and Paris has to make an extraordinary effort.

It is regrettable that this monumental tribute to Chinese architecture and culture failed. May the magnificent phantom palace continue to sleep peacefully for a thousand years!

This is the last post in the series entitled “Visit to a Phantom Palace.”

Visit to a Phantom Palace – Part 2

July 21st, 2010
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Chinagora Viewed from Place du Confluent France-Chine
(c) Discover Paris!

Today, Chinagora stands on the banks of the Seine and Marne rivers like a magnificent phantom Manchurian palace. We entered the grounds, where I noted that there was a tourist bus parked in the parking lot of the hotel. As we made our way into the hotel lobby I noted that a number of hallways were blocked off with the same type of metal grills that are used for crowd control in Paris. Decidedly, this was a building that one was not permitted to explore!

The lobby was a peaceful place, with a number of the hotel staff going about their business. I was surprised to see a few tourists sitting in the lobby. Why did they come here? I wondered. And what is the point of staying in this isolated place? The hotel staff paid no attention to us, a group of about twenty persons, as we purchased soft drinks from a vending machine and wandered about. Patrick Urbain must have asked the concierge if we could explore the garden that sits in the center of the hotel, because someone opened a sliding glass door and we were allowed to step outside.

Chinagora Garden
(c) Discover Paris!

The garden showed signs of dilapidation, but was still a beautiful place. A couple of footbridges crossed over empty ponds, and vegetation grew abundantly. I overheard someone comment about an unusual plant that he spotted. He said that it was only found in China, and he took a picture to document his discovery.

To be continued…