A Visit to the Baguès Workshop

June 10th, 2010
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Bending Iron for a Hand-crafted Chandelier
(c) Discover Paris!

Members of the Paris Alumnae/i Network attended a guided visit to the Baguès workshop on Tuesday, June 8 to see how craftsmen make elegant bronze and iron chandeliers, lamp fixtures, wall sconces, and mirror frames. We observed the careful pounding, chiseling, bending, and twisting that the workers applied to lengths of iron and cast bronze to shape the metals into beautiful works of art. Some two to three years of experience are required for a worker to begin to get proficient at the craft. And because the work is so labor intensive, the products that come out of the shop are well beyond the means of the average consumer.

Among those public and private institutions wealthy enough to be able to afford to decorate their palaces with Baguès products are the Château de Versailles, the Banque de France, the Hôtel Ritz, the State Department in Washington, D.C., and the Royal Palace of Bucharest. The lamps and chandeliers are made to measure. This, the expensive materials, and the careful handiwork, account for the costliness of the finished product.

Baguès began as a family-run business in the 19th century, making lamps for churches. Today, a different family runs the enterprise. There are only about three or four companies remaining in France that perform this type of workmanship.

The showroom is located at 73, avenue Daumesnil in the 12th arrondissement.

Finished Chandelier
(c) Discover Paris!

Jacques Chirac at La Rhumerie

By A. D. McKenzie

June 8th, 2010
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Jacques Chirac at La Rhumerie
Photography by A. D. McKenzie

“What’s going on inside … why do I have to walk in the street instead of on the sidewalk?”

This was the question from a pedestrian on Sunday afternoon as she tried to avoid a large crowd and a troop of police officers in front of a café on the boulevard Saint-Germain. The reason for the throng was that former French president Jacques Chirac was inside La Rhumerie café signing copies of the second volume of his autobiography.

The 77-year-old Chirac is a frequent patron of the café (known for its rum-based cocktails and its Caribbean cuisine), and manager Dominique Herenguel said she was delighted when the politician decided he would autograph his book there.

“It’s wonderful that he has chosen to give us this honor,” she said.

Chirac seemed relaxed as he chatted with admirers of all ages. At one point, a couple clamored for him to hug their baby, and he smilingly complied as the cameras rolled. He later spent time talking to a young boy who appeared thrilled by the attention.

Between autographs, Chirac paused to sip a frothy white cocktail, while his security staff tried to keep journalists and photo-hunters from getting too close in the packed cafe.

Despite all the excitement, some regular diners continued nibbling on their salt-fish fritters and drinking their exotique punch, seemingly oblivious to the hoopla.

La Rhumerie, established in 1932, is an institution in the Saint-Germain-des-Prés area. It is located a few steps from the landmark church and from similarly famous cafés such as Les Deux Magots. The owners try to keep its profile high with literary spectacles, art exhibitions, and other cultural events.

As Chirac signed copies of his book, he was flanked by the colorful canvases of Nathalie Lemaître, a French artist who has held annual exhibitions at La Rhumerie for the past five years. Her current show runs until July 11 – something to catch if you missed Chirac.

We wish to thank A. D. McKenzie for her contribution to the Paris Insights blog.

Tom Reeves Named Official Blogger for the 4-14 Festival in Dijon: Celebrating Franco-American Friendship, Food, Music, and Fun!

June 3rd, 2010
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I am pleased to announce that I have been named the official blogger for the second annual 4-14 Festival, to be held in Dijon on July 9-11, 2010. The festival brings together American and French musicians and chefs to celebrate friendship, food, music…and fun! Last year, 15,000 people turned out for the festivities!

Twenty-five chefs from both sides of the Atlantic will work their culinary magic for the festival. This year, American chefs from New Orleans and other Louisiana towns (and one from Washington, D.C.) will be participating in the event. They include Louisiana native Dooky Chase IV of the legendary Dooky Chase restaurant. The restaurant was devastated by Hurricane Katrina, but has risen from the flood waters to continue its 60+-year tradition of service. Among the French chefs, Michelin-starred Marc Meneau of the inimitable l’Esperance, and Daniel Ginsberg of the Nouvelle Cuisine de la Ville de Dijon will participate alongside nine additional Burgundian masters of cuisine.

I have been writing about food for Discover Paris! since October 2006, when I launched my “Quest for Smoke-Free Dining” review for the Paris Insights monthly newsletter. After smoking was banned in restaurants in France in January 2008, I launched “Le Bon Goût,” a monthly restaurant review for which I interview the chef. The review is found in my Paris Insights newsletter, available by paid subscription. I now publish a free weekly restaurant review for the Paris Insights Web site as well. I share my passion for coffee and chocolate by frequently posting anecdotes to my Paris Insights blog and Facebook page about the fresh-roasted coffee beans and hand-crafted chocolates that I find at the many coffee-roasting facilities and artisanal chocolate shops in the French capital.

Click here to access my blog about the 4-14 Festival. Click here to access my free weekly restaurant review.

Mra Oma & Brotherhood

June 2nd, 2010
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Good news for jazz fans! Mra Oma & Brotherhood will be performing at the Centre Tchèque this Friday at 8:30 p.m. The Czech center is located at 18, rue Bonaparte in the 6th arrondissement. Entry is only 5€ for some great music!

Le Lapin Agile: A Cabaret for Traditional French Songs

June 1st, 2010
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Our feature article for this month’s Paris Insights newsletter is about Le Lapin Agile. Nestled on the northern slope of Montmartre, just downhill from a vineyard and uphill from a cemetery, the cabaret has existed since at least the early 19th century. Read about this historic place and learn why it evokes so much nostalgia.

Just down the north slope from the cabaret lies a restaurant called Bistrot Poulbot. Operated by Chef Véronique Melloul, it is a great place to dine before taking in the show! Read our review in this month’s Le Bon Goût.

We interviewed Federico Santalla, one of the singers who used to perform at Le Lapin Agile. Read our account of his experience there in this month’s Paris, Past and Present.

All three of these articles can be found in the June issue of the Paris Insights newsletter. To subscribe, please click here.

Unusual Apéritifs in Paris

May 30th, 2010
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In our weekly quest for new restaurants to review, we often order an apéritif to whet our appetites for dinner. We decided some time ago to compose a list of some of the unusual house cocktails that we have tasted, and present a few of them below, most of which are wine-based concoctions.

Stronger stuff can be tasted today and tomorrow at the 3rd annual Cocktails Spirits salon, held at La Maison Rouge art gallery at 10, boulevard de la Bastille in the 12th arrondissement.

Vin Chai Moi’s grapefruit, ginger, and white wine cocktail
© Discover Paris!

Vin Chai Moi cocktail

This handsome restaurant and wine bar in the 1st arrondissement has a surprisingly long and eclectic list of wine cocktails from which to choose. Our favorite is made with white wine flavored with grapefruit and ginger. Though it may look like a frou-frou drink, it is potent!

Vin Chai Moi – 18, rue Duphot – Paris 1è

Kir Birlou

This is a specialty of A Verse Toujours, a café in the 5th arrondissement. It is made with white wine and Birlou, a liqueur from the Cantal region of Auvergne, containing “the flavor of apple and the mystery of chestnut.” This liqueur has been available outside of Auvergne only for the past ten years. “Bir” signifies beer, because the liqueur marries well with this beverage. “Lou” comes from the word “pelou,” which is a colloquialism that evokes the chestnut.

We have not found the delightful Kir Birlou anywhere else to date!

A Verse Toujours – 3, avenue des Gobelins – Paris 5è

Pousse Rapière

This beverage is made from a liqueur called Armagnac Pousse Rapière, composed of macerated orange and Armagnac from the Château de Monluc located in the Gascony region of France. The liqueur is mixed with Vin Sauvage Brut, a sparkling white wine from the same producer. One can substitute other sparkling whites, including champagne, but the wine should be brut (dry). Otherwise, the cocktail will be too sweet.

La Cérisaie, one of our favorite restaurants in the Montparnasse district, first introduced us to this drink. We have also found it at La Tute, in the 1st arrondissement.

La Cérisaie – 70, boulevard Edgar-Quinet – Paris 14è

Le Bon Goût – Our Monthly Restaurant Review

May 28th, 2010
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Deborah Brown-Pivain, Proprietor
Gentle Gourmet Bed and Breakfast
(c) Discover Paris!

On the first of each month, we publish a restaurant review, which we call “Le Bon Goût,” for the readers of our Paris Insights newsletter. In it, we not only describe our dining experience, but also write about the chef or the proprietor, and illustrate the review with a photograph of him or her.

We have been reviewing restaurants for many years, and have met many chefs and proprietors who are passionate about the art of preparing great cuisine. By writing about them, we hope that we can communicate their passion to you, their customer.

In this month’s Le Bon Goût, we review a vegetarian establishment called Gentle Gourmet Bed and Breakfast.

Access to the review is available to paid subscribers of our newsletter. To enter a subscription, click here.

The Champs Elysées Goes Green!

May 25th, 2010
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A Forest on the Champs Elysées
(c) Discover Paris!

This past weekend, the upper portion of the Champs Elysées was transformed into veritable ribbon of greenery. Visitors were surrounded by vegetation from forest and farm, and stands on the sidewalk offered a place to adopt a tree – all in honor of 2010 being the year of biodiversity.

Though one was always conscious of being on the “grandest of avenues,” it was still a huge pleasure to enjoy trees and underbrush across from the Drugstore Publicis, and sunflowers and mustard plants across from the Virgin Megastore. From the Arc de Triomphe to the Rond Point, birch, sequoia, and chestnut trees gave way to grapevines, pineapple plants, melon and cabbage patches, and even sugar cane! Attendants were scattered about, ready to provide responses to questions about specific plants and the exposition in general. Signs displaying information about each plant drooped over just as the tips of wheat or other grain stalks would, requiring passersby to reach out and lift them to read them. This was yet another way of interacting with the exhibit.

Children abounded on Sunday afternoon. Everyone was remarkably well behaved, and it was easy to see that the kids were fascinated by the wide variety of plants that were literally within arm’s reach. In one instance, I saw kids standing atop a tree planter, trying to get a bird’s eye view of the avenue.

Cul Noir Sow and Piglets
(c) Discover Paris!

Animals were even brought in to complete the farm motif. A beekeeper had a display of live bees that invited onlookers to identify the queen amidst the swarming insects. Cows and goats peacefully munched their feed, ignoring the crowd. The most delightful sight of the day was a giant “Cul Noir” sow nursing two piglets! Somehow, the mother seemed oblivious to her little ones as they butted their heads against the teats as they hungrily suckled.

According to RTL, over 1.8 million people visited the Champs Elysées on Sunday and Monday – twice as many visitors as the ever-popular Salon de l’Agriculture attracts in a week’s time! There’s no doubt that beautiful weather helped bring out the crowds, but this is still an incredible number of people. The organizers can be proud of an event that was likely successful beyond their expectations, and the visitors can always look back with fondness on the days when the Champs Elysées went green!

Festival France Noire

May 21st, 2010
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The film festival France Noire – Black France opens today at the Forum des Images located at the Forum des Halles in the heart of Paris. The event has been organized by four university professors, including Arlette Frund (Université de Tours), Trica Danielle Keaton (Vanderbilt University) Tracy Sharpley-Whiting (Vanderbilt University), and Maboula Soumahoro (Université de Tours). It promises to be a rich and rewarding experience, as it treats three important themes: how blacks perceive themselves in France; how they perceive France as a country in which they live; and what kinds of intellectual, cultural, and artistic communities have developed among the black communities there.

We had the honor of being invited to attend a pre-festival reception and screening held at the American ambassador’s residence last night. Two documentary films were shown. The first, entitled Un Siècle de Jenny (directed by Laurent Champonnois and Dederico Nicotre), is a tribute to Martinican singer, actress, and activist Jenny Alpha. The second, entitled Noirs, l’identité au cœur de la question noire (directed by Arnaud Ngatcha), treats the thought-provoking question of how French men and women of African descent perceive themselves in French society.

A film about the African-American experience in Paris in the early part of the 20th century will be shown this evening at 9:00 p.m. Entitled Harlem à Montmartre, it was produced by Dante J. James, a filmmaker from Durham, North Carolina.

La Mariam
By Alexis Peskine

Jazz Festival at Saint-Germain-des-Prés

May 20th, 2010
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Jazz Festival at Saint-Germain-des-Prés

Jazz lovers will not want to miss the 10th annual “Festival Jazz à Saint-Germain-des-Prés” this year. The festival offers two full weeks of entertainment from May 16th through 30th, with concerts scheduled every day and free photo expositions that highlight several aspects of this musical genre in Paris and New York.

Sunday’s opening schedule consisted of a free concert at the Eglise Saint-Germain that featured new female talent. In fact, most of the concerts offered during the two week period are free of charge. Venues for these concerts include FNAC Montparnasse, Starbucks Coffee at various locations in central Paris, and the Sunset and Sunside jazz club (one drink minimum here), while ticket purchase is required for concerts being held at the Théâtre de l’Odéon, the Hôtel Meridien Montparnasse, and other grander sites. (Note that the venues are not restricted to Saint-Germain-des-Prés.)

Photo expositions are hung at the Hôtel Bel Ami (which is also celebrating its 10th anniversary this year), the Bibliothèque André Malraux, and the Hôtel Lutetia (which is celebrating its 100th anniversary this year). The show at the Bel Ami, and one of the expos at the Bibliothèque, trace the history of the Festival. But the most spectacular exhibit will undoubtedly be the display of a collection of Philippe Levy-Stab’s photos entitled “Jazz, Spirit of New York” at the Brasserie and the Salon Saint-Germain of the Hôtel Lutetia. This expo will is scheduled to end on 31July 2010, long after the festival is over.

To see the entire schedule for the festival, click here.