Chef Tetsu Goya

November 13th, 2010
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Chef Tetsu Goya
L'Epicure 108
(c) Discover Paris!

Chef Goya opened L’Epicure 108 restaurant in 1992, serving French and Alsatian cuisine. He has two seasonal menus, one for spring and the other for winter.

He enjoys preparing wild game for his customers—game fowl in September and October and large game in November and December. We recently dined there on Scottish grouse and truffled beef tail, and wrote a review about it for this month’s Le Bon Goût.

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Fresh-Roasted Coffee at Brûlerie Daval

November 10th, 2010
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Brûlerie Daval
(c) Discover Paris!

Passersby on rue Daval will not readily spot this shop selling fresh-roasted coffee. To find it, they have to turn down cour Damoye, a beautiful little passageway that leads to place de la Bastille.

Madame D’Amico opened the Brûlerie Daval with her husband shortly after the end of WWII. It has an old-time look, with open bags of roasted coffee beans on the counter displaying signs with hand-printed labels indicating the names and prices of the coffee. Bins of tea rise up on shelves behind the counter. Inside the shop there is a small table that can accommodate two coffee drinkers. A few tables and chairs stand on the sidewalk terrace in front of the store.

Madame D’Amico sells mostly blended coffees. She states that it is almost impossible to find an unblended coffee that is perfectly equilibrated: these may have too much perfume or too much acidity; if they have good flavor, they are not strong bodied; if they are strong bodied, they don’t have enough flavor; and so on.

I purchased 250 grams of “Nouveau Mélange Corsé” for 3.60€. Madame D’Amico would not divulge the specific coffees in the blend, stating only that one of the coffees was from Central America and the other was a Moka. I can understand her reticence at revealing the recipe. After all, top chefs do not want to reveal their secrets either!

Madame D'Amico
(c) Discover Paris!

Nouveau Mélange Corsé is an Italian roast—its beautiful dark-brown beans glisten with oil. Back at the apartment, I ground the beans and prepared the brew in a French coffee press. The coffee had a bold, robust flavor. As I drank it, I remembered learning that when coffee beans are dark roasted—as these are—it is mostly the roast that one tastes, not the beans themselves.

The second time I went in to buy coffee, Madame D’Amico quoted a few lines of poetry from Rimbaud and expressed her admiration for Beaudelaire. I ordered the “W. goût délicieuse,” which is a lighter roast than the Nouveau Mélange Corsé. I asked Madame D’Amico what the “W” stood for. She said that it is simply the name that she gave it so that customers could identify it if they wanted to order it again. I have not had a chance to brew and taste this one, as I have not yet finished drinking the Nouveau Mélange Corsé.

Madame D’Amico told me that she gets lots of customers from Japan. Apparently, her shop has been listed in Japanese guidebooks and reviewed in the Japanese press. She also said that a number of customers have requested that she ship coffee to them.

Brulerie Daval
12, rue Daval
75011 Paris
Tel.: 01.48.05.29.46
Open every day except Mondays from 10 a.m. to 1 p.m. and 3 p.m. to 7 p.m.

Nouveau Melange Corsé
(c) Discover Paris!

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Discover Paris! and the Toni Morrison Society Conference in Paris

November 7th, 2010
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Toni Morrison
(c) Discover Paris!

The Toni Morrison Society is holding its sixth Biennial Conference in Paris, France from November 4-7. Called Toni Morrison and Circuits of the Imagination, it is the first conference that the group has hosted outside the United States in its seventeen years of existence. Highlights of the event were the induction of Toni Morrison into the Legion of Honor; her receipt of the “Medaille de Grand Vermeil” from the City of Paris; a celebration of the 40th anniversary of the publication of Morrison’s novel The Bluest Eye; and the dedication of a bench on rue Louis Delgrès, which is one of the sites in Paris where the city commemorates the abolition of slavery in France’s colonies.

Discover Paris’ role in the four-day conference was to give a tour of sites relevant to African / Diaspora history in the French capital. Monique Y. Wells, co-founder of the travel planning service, provided commentary to approximately one-third of the conference attendees during a three-hour bus tour that covered the city yesterday. Wells not only reminded participants of events such as the 1956 Congress of Negro Writers and Artists that was held at the Sorbonne, but also regaled the group with little-known facts about African-American personalities who lived in Paris during the 20th century. In particular, the story of painter Beauford Delaney’s final “Paris years” struck a chord with the group. Wells recently founded a non-profit association called Les Amis de Beauford Delaney to resurrect the memory of this painter.

Monique Giving Bus Tour Commentary
(c) Discover Paris!

Though it rained for much of the tour, the skies cleared sufficiently to allow the group to stop at Place Josephine Baker for photographs. Upon reboarding the bus, Wells relayed the story of Baker’s last performance run in Paris, which took place at the Bobino theater just a couple of blocks away from the square that now bears her name.

Participants Gathering for Group Photo
at Place Josephine Baker
(c) Discover Paris!

Among the various services that it offers, Discover Paris! has been providing private walking tours, self-guided itineraries, museum visits, and excursions on African-American history in the French capital since 2000. This set of activities has recently been rechristened Entrée to Black Paris™. Its new mission is to increase awareness of the contribution of all African Diaspora peoples to the richness and diversity of contemporary life in the French capital.

When asked to describe her reaction to the opportunity to participate in the Toni Morrison Society conference, Wells said, “It is an honor and a privilege to contribute to this historic event in support of Pulitzer Prize and Nobel Prize winner Toni Morrison and the Toni Morrison Society. Since 2001, Discover Paris! has been working with the conference organizer Professor Janis Mayes on her Paris Noir summer study abroad program. We are very pleased that she selected us to be a part of this program as well!”

Delicious Memories of the Salon du Chocolat

November 3rd, 2010
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Miguel Laureau
Making a Chocolate Sculpture
(c) Discover Paris!

The 16th annual Salon du Chocolat was held last weekend at the Porte de Versailles in Paris. We attended one of the early salons, some 15 years ago or so, and remember that samples of chocolate were distributed in abundance. Though few exhibitors were giving away samples this year, enough free product was handed out to satisfy all but the most demanding of chocolate lovers.

The salon attracts exhibitors from all over the world. It features not only chocolate makers from countries such as France, Switzerland, and Belgium, but also cocoa-bean-growing countries such as Mexico, Bolivia, Madagascar, and Saõ Tomé and Principé.

Chocolate was exhibited in all its forms, and it was amazing to see what creative minds can do with it! There were standard chocolate products, such as chocolate bars, chocolate ice cream and chocolate syrups, and standard chocolate shapes, such as domes, squares, rectangles, and disks. But there were also chocolate sculptures and chocolate dresses! The latter were displayed on mannequins and were worn by live models during a fashion show that took place at 5 p.m. each day. Chocolate is more than a delightful sweet, it is a way of life!

The following pictures give an idea of the vastness of the salon and the variety of chocolate-based products that were exhibited.

Mademoiselle Cocoa by Victoire Finaz and Olivia Louvet
(c) Discover Paris!

Three Chocolate Fountains
by Baron Cocoa
(c) Discover Paris!

Chocolate Hats by Choc' Chaud
(c) Discover Paris!

Pouring a Bailey's Frostie
(c) Discover Paris!

Chefs Confering at the Meilleur Ouvrier de France Contest
(c) Discover Paris!

Chocolat Cinagra at the Planetequitable Stand
(c) Discover Paris!

See you at the salon next year!

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A Lively Tweet-up in Paris this Evening

November 2nd, 2010
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Kasia, Michelle, and Igora
(c) Discover Paris!

At least twenty-five Paris tweeps met at Café Livre on rue Saint-Martin to communicate in the old-fashioned way—by chatting face-to-face! Yes folks, even the most advanced form of high-speed, electronic communication known to mankind—Twitter—has not (yet) squelched the desire for humans to get together around a table and shoot the breeze.

So large was the group that it was forced to split into two parts, with sub-groups sitting on either side of the café. Even so, movement of individuals across the café from one group to another could be detected!

The café is a handsome place with wooden floors, a bar with a metal counter top, and walls lined with shelves filled with dozens of books. Hence its name Café Livre. But nobody was reading tonight; people were too busy in happy conversation!

There were new faces there amongst the familiar, but rather that trying to sort it all out, here is a list of their names, Twitter identities, and blogs:

Name

Twitter

Blog/Web site

Forest

52martinis

52martinis.blogspot.com

Ana

dirtroady

carpevida.wordpress.com

Cynthia

adventureeating

adventureeating.wordpress.com

Shannon

jnsqblogparis

jnsq-blog.com

Tamara

tamarandom

N/A

Monique

moniqueinparis

entreetoblackparis.blogspot.com

Kasia

kasiainparis

loveinthecityoflights.com

Mary

eatinginparis

howtomarryafrenchman.blogspot.com

Michelle

greentnbiscuits

greenteaandbiscuits.wordpress.com

Igora

latincosmicgirl

missmercury-.tumblr.com

Joshua

c14ism

c14ism.com

Kylie

kyliemac

www.katiaandkyliemac.com

Lindsey

lostncheeseland

www.lostincheeseland.com

Marlys

parisbuff

easy-hiker.eu

Cara

carablack

www.carablack.com

Sion

parisimperfect

parisimperfect.wordpress.com

Leila

leilaf

leilablogs.wordpress.com

Dani

dani_w1121

daniellewolff.com

Brian

Katia

cutestmidget

katiaandkyliemac.com

Mary

mclassiter03

www.mclassiter.com

Barbara

expatfreelancer

theexpatfreelancer.blogspot.com

Hélène

parisouailleurs

aparisouailleurs.canalblog.com

Amy

godiloveparis

godiloveparis.blogspot.com

Tom

tomreevesparis

blog.parisinsights.com

Here are some additional pictures of the event:

Forest, Ana, and Cynthia
(c) Discover Paris!

Shannon, Tamara, Monique, and Mary
(c) Discover Paris!

Katia, Barbara, and Marlys
(c) Discover Paris!

Colette - A Future Tweep
(c) Discover Paris!

See you at the next Tweet-up!

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Nadar: From High School Dropout to Iconic Photographer

November 1st, 2010
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Félix Nadar - Self Portrait (1853)

November is photography month in Paris. To mark this occasion, we present Félix Nadar, one of the most renowned photographers of the 19th century. Although he dropped out of high school, he went on to become a novelist, journalist, aeronaut, artist, adventurer, caricaturist, and man-about-town. Read about his remarkable life in this month’s Paris Insights.

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Bonne lecture!

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Kosher Dark Chocolates at Ardelys

October 27th, 2010
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Ardelys' Parve Chocolates
(c)Discover Paris!

Having discussed their delicious lamehadrine milk chocolates on last Wednesday’s posting, we now turn to Ardelys’ parve dark chocolates. We purchased four to sample.

The Jerusalem is a heart-shaped confection—a thick, dark-chocolate shell encasing a smooth, rich, dark-chocolate fondant. The word “fondant” refers to the soft filling of the chocolate. The sales clerk told us that it has the subtle flavor of strawberry. I could taste this, but my partner could not. I also found the chocolate slightly piquant. We both enjoyed this sweet.

The Diamantine is a gianduja (hazelnut and chocolate paste) sold in a tiny foil cup. I found it to have a slightly smokey flavor. My partner said that she did not find it as sweet as other giandujas that she has tasted. Neither of these observations, however, mean that we did not like this délice. Au contraire!

The Jakarta’s thin dark-chocolate shell enrobes a dark-chocolate filling whose pronounced aroma of pineapple we found delightful.

The sales clerk told us that the Sydney has the flavor of whisky. We did not taste this, but, nonetheless, found the dark chocolate fondant quite agreeable. The flavor lingered long after the chocolate had been consumed.

Fondant fillings are not common in traditional chocolates—most chocolates are sold as ganaches. But the Ardelys fondants that we sampled passed our rigorous taste test with flying colors!

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Monique Leads Paris Bloggers on an “Entrée to Black Paris” Tour

October 23rd, 2010
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Bruce and Pamela Murray (on the left)
Monique Y. Wells (center)
(c) Discover Paris!

Bruce and Pamela Murray came to Paris to spend thirty days and to write about their daily experiences on Facebook. We first met them for dinner on Thursday, October 6, at which time we proposed that they join Monique, my wife and Discover Paris! business partner, for a guided walking tour that highlights the lives of notable African-American writers who lived in Paris after WWII.

The walking tour took place last Thursday under a beautiful autumn sky. Three other persons, including two Paris bloggers, joined the group.

The tour lasted two hours. Monique’s presentation incorporated not only anecdotes about writers Richard Wright, James Baldwin, and Chester Himes, but also the stories of many other persons of color, including French writer Alexandre Dumas and Senegalese historian and anthropologist Cheikh Anta Diop.

Bruce and Pamela wrote a great review about Monique’s tour on their 30 Days in Paris Facebook page. Thank you, Bruce and Pamela!

Kosher Lamehadrine Chocolates at Ardelys

October 20th, 2010
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Ardelys Milk Chocolates
(c) Discover Paris!

Ardelys, a smart-looking boutique at 157, rue Manin in the 19th arrondissement of Paris, sells kosher chocolates. But these chocolates are more than kosher, they are lamehadrine, an extra-strict form that guarantees that the food product is above suspicion and beyond reproach.

We entered and purchased four milk-based chocolates made with lait chamour, or milk that has been under rabbinical surveillance from the moment that it is drawn from the animal. While we are not competent to enter into discussion or debate about the technicalities of kosher food production, we are capable of recognizing good chocolate when we taste it. And these chocolates are delectable!

The Roma has a thick, milk-chocolate shell encasing a soft filling redolent of orange. Although the sales clerk told us that this variety of chocolate contains a hint of rum, we did not detect any. We were not disappointed, though, as the aroma of orange is quite strong.

The Rosario has a thin, milk-chocolate shell covering a coffee-flavored praline. And what an assertive, espresso-like flavor it has! This was our favorite of the four.

The London has a caramel center enrobed in white chocolate. The chocolate shell is thick and firm, and the caramel tasted as though it had a soupçon of rum in it. Nice!

And finally, the Barcelona has a white-chocolate shell enveloping dark-chocolate praline. Examining closely, I could see that the praline center was slightly pasty. But when I bit into the confection, the white chocolate shell blended into the praline, giving a rich, smooth taste experience.

As well as milk chocolates, Ardelys sells dark chocolates. We will have something to say next Wednesday about these!

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Big Bloggers’ Meet-up Yesterday

October 16th, 2010
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A lively bloggers’ meet-up was held yesterday evening at Living B’art, a restaurant in the 18th arrondissement.

Living B'art
(c) Discover Paris!

The event was organized by Andi Fisher of Misadventures with Andi and Erica Berman of Haven in Paris and HiP Paris, and attracted an interesting group of Anglophones who blog for the most part about their observations about and experiences in the City of Light. The two generous cheese platters that were served, compliments of Andi and Erica, permitted us to order wine by the glass. (The restaurant does not have a license that allows it to serve wine without food.)

A Lively Meet-up!
Erica in foreground in gray dress
(c) Discover Paris!

One the bloggers, Andi, lives with her French husband Jany in Berkeley, California. Jany speculated that women are better at communicating then men, which might account for the fact that only one male blogger (me) could be counted among the fifteen or so female bloggers present.

Jany, Andi, Lily, and Monique
(c) Discover Paris!

By 7:30 p.m. the restaurant was filled with people happily chatting away.

I was able to get the names and Web addresses of a number of attendees before Monique and I had to leave for a dinner engagement. Here is the list:

Andi (mentioned above)
Erica (mentioned above)
Amy of C’est la me
Cynthia of Adventure Eating
Karin of An Alien Parisienne
Shannon of Je ne sais quoi
Maggie of Haven in Paris, HiP Paris, and Eat Boutique
Lily of Context Travel Paris
Kasia of Love in the City of Lights
Monique of Entrée to Black Paris
and Melissa of Prête-Moi Paris

Here are two more pictures…

Lily and Maggie
(c) Discover Paris!

Karin, Shannon, and Kasia
(c) Discover Paris!

A good time was had by all!