Battle of the Bands in the Metro

June 9th, 2012
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Whiskybaba

Whiskybaba
Photo by www.DiscoverParis.net

On Friday, May 4, I attended a concert in metro station Miromesnil where six bands competed for the opportunity to appear at the annual Solidays three-day mega-concert to be held in late June. One of the bands was Whiskybaba, whose on-stage antics made me smile!

I wrote about the concert in this month’s Paris Insights, a monthly newsletter that brings you insider information about culture, history, and contemporary life in the City of Light.

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Visit to La Fabrique de la Ville

June 8th, 2012
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On Saturday May 12, I took the metro to the Paris suburb of Saint-Denis, where I joined a group of about fifteen persons for a walking tour of some of the archeological sites of the town. The tour was led by Nicole Rodrigues, director of the architectural unit of the city. We were fortunate to have such a knowledgeable person lead the group! Nicole pointed out that Saint-Denis is rich in archeological sites that date as far back as Late Antiquity, when Frankish kings ruled this land.

So important is Saint-Denis’ archeological heritage that the city goes to extraordinary lengths to inform and educate its citizens about this precious legacy. The walking tour in which I participated is one of the many ways that the city engages its citizens in this effort.

Fabrique de la Ville

Fabrique de la Ville
Photo by www.DiscoverParis.net

For me, the high point of the visit was a tour of the “Fabrique de la Ville,” a restoration project of what is believed to be (apart from the Basilica of Saint Denis) the oldest building in the city. The building’s roof has been stripped, exposing its rafters so that archeologists can examine them carefully. By extracting small cores of wood from the beams, these scientists have been able to determine that the tree from which the wood was cut was harvested in the year 1482.

After the roof was stripped, the city built a tent to cover the building to protect it from the elements so that archeological exploration could continue. At the same time, the city erected scaffolding to permit members of the archeological team to give guided tours of the project.

Following the Leader

Following the Leader
Photo by www.DiscoverParis.net

Nicole Rodrigues Talks about the History of the Old Building

Nicole Rodrigues Talks about the History of the Old Building
Photo by www.DiscoverParis.net

When we arrived at the project, we were instructed to don safety helmets and to follow Nicole up the stairs of the scaffolding, where she talked about the history of the building. In the photo above, she shows a sketch that illustrates what the building and its adjoining structures once looked like.

Rafters of Old Building

Rafters of Old Building
Photo by www.DiscoverParis.net

We climbed higher, and there we were at roof-top height! We could clearly see for ourselves that the rafters were still sturdy after all these years (530 to be exact). But that wasn’t all. The surprise came when we learned that we could climb to the top of a belvedere for a spectacular view of the Saint-Denis skyline.

So, up we went, five persons at a time.

View of Paris to the South

View of Paris to the South
Photo by www.DiscoverParis.net

In the photograph above, the Sacré-Cœur Basilica can be seen on the horizon.

View of Saint-Denis to the East

View of Saint-Denis to the East
Photo by www.DiscoverParis.net

In the photograph above, the Stade de France can be seen on the horizon.

View of Saint-Denis to the North

View of Saint-Denis to the North
Photo by www.DiscoverParis.net

In the photograph above, the Basilica of Saint Denis can be seen.

It was a spectacular end to an enlightening tour of the city!

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Is This Man the Most Intrepid Blogger in All of Ile-de-France?

June 7th, 2012
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Fearless Blogger Prepares to Enter Dangerous Construction Site

Fearless Blogger Prepares to Enter
Construction Site in Saint-Denis
Photo by www.DiscoverParis.net

Who is this stalwart blogger? And what danger could he possibly be facing that requires him to wear this silly-looking safety helmet? Come back tomorrow to find out!

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Tasting Confiseries à la Figue

June 6th, 2012
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Confiseries à la Figue from Première Pression Provence

Confiseries à la Figue from Première Pression Provence
Photo by www.DiscoverParis.net

During our last visit to Première Pression Provence, manager Jenna Thornton offered us a package of confiseries à la figue that are made in Provence. We took them home, tasted them, and found that we liked them very much!

These round, three-layered sweets measure 7/8″ in diameter and are 1/2″ thick. The top layer consists of hard-sugar frosting, the middle layer a pasty confection of fig, almond, and melon, and the bottom layer a paper-thin azyme made from potato starch and sunflower oil. Small enough to pop into the mouth, they are sweet and chewy. The immediate and lasting flavor that I experienced was, strangely enough, cinnamon, which is not even an ingredient. It must have been the fig that I tasted, which, for me, has a cinnamon-like flavor. Monique declared that almond was the predominant flavor.

Première Pression Provence
51, rue Saint-Louis-en-l’Ile
75004 Paris
Telephone: 09.66.98.23.48

Open Sunday to Friday 10:30 a.m. – 8:00 p.m.
Saturday 10:30 a.m. – 10:00 p.m

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Musicians in the Metro – Part I

June 1st, 2012
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La Réprise

La Réprise
Photo by www.DiscoverParis.net

Travelers to Paris who use the metro to get around the city will, sooner or later, come upon any of the 300 musicians who perform in its passageways. In April, we had the opportunity to attend an audition held by Espace Métro Accords, where we participated on a jury to help determine which of the competing musicians should be granted a license to play there. Read about how the selection process is made in this month’s Paris Insights.

To view a preview of the newsletter, click here.

Paris Insights is published monthly as a downloadable PDF file. It is available only to paid subscribers for an annual subscription fee of $30.

If you are not a paid subscriber and would like to download the newsletter, please click here. Enter promotional code 11473309154 to receive a $5 discount off the price of an annual subscription.

Bonne lecture!

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Daniel Ungaro Grows Olives

May 30th, 2012
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Daniel Ungaro

Daniel Ungaro, Olive Oil Producer
Photo by www.DiscoverParis.net

Daniel Ungaro grows olives in the Vaucluse, a French administrative département in southeastern France. He recently paid a visit to the Première Pression Provence shop on Ile Saint-Louis in Paris, where we asked him some questions about olive growing.

He told us that most of his annual production of 2,000 liters comes from olive trees that are twelve years old. During harvest season, he watches the olives carefully and when they are ready, he spreads netting under the trees and shakes the trunks with a machine. The olives drop from the tree limbs into the nets; none that reach the ground can be used for pressing. He once hired workers to harvest his olives by hand, but the cost of labor now makes this method prohibitively expensive.

One of the surprising facts that he told us about olive trees is that they do not have natural pollinators (such as bees or other insects). Instead, it is the Mistral, a strong wind from the north that blows down to the Mediterranean, that pollinates the trees.

We tasted one of Daniel’s oils, “La Cavalerie,” produced from olives that have just started to ripen. It has a powerful, peppery flavor. Not for the timid! Jenna Thornton, manager of the store, served a number of hors d’oœvres, including chunks of country bread drizzled with the oil and sprinkled with tomato powder, goat cheese with garlic marinated in the oil and served on slices of baguette, and thinly-sliced raw zucchini flavored with fresh, crushed mint and drizzled with his oil. All were appetizing dishes!

La Cavalerie Olive Oil by Daniel Ungaro

La Cavalerie Olive Oil by Daniel Ungaro
Photo by www.DiscoverParis.net

For more information about Daniel Ungaro, click here.

Première Pression Provence
51, rue Saint-Louis-en-l’Ile
75004 Paris
Telephone: 09.66.98.23.48

Open Sunday to Friday 10:30 a.m. – 8:00 p.m.
Saturday 10:30 a.m. – 10:00 p.m

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Author and Historian David McCullough Feted at the U.S. Ambassador’s Residence

May 26th, 2012
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Monique Y. Wells and David McCullough at the U.S. Ambassador's Residence in Paris

David McCullough Autographs His Book The Greater Journey for Monique Y. Wells, Co-founder of Discover Paris!
Photo by www.DiscoverParis.net

David McCullough, award-winning author and historian, was guest of honor at the U.S. Ambassador’s residence in Paris last night. His most recent book, The Greater Journey, is about Americans who lived in Paris from the 1830s to the 1900s.

In his speech, McCullough talked about the importance of the Franco-American relationship, asserting that the United States would not have gained its independence without the financial, military, and intellectual support of France. In reference to France’s intellectual influence, he stated the the founding fathers who came to Paris felt at home here because the ideals of freedom were being discussed in intellectual circles at that time.

A speaker on hundreds of college campuses, McCullough spoke of his dismay that students today are historically illiterate. He talked about the importance of studying history and stated that history is more than just political and military narrative. History covers all human activity, including art, architecture, music, and poetry.

History, he said, shows that individuals cannot achieve great things alone, that they must work with others in a community. An historian, he said, is forcibly a short-term pessimist and a long-term optimist.

McCullough came to Paris for the first time in 1961. He loves the city and the research that he performs here. He was particularly proud to announce that his granddaughter, who attended the event, is currently studying French in Paris.

A film crew from the Public Broadcasting System filmed McCullough’s presentation. Journalist Morley Safer and stage and screen star Olivia de Havilland (who played the roll of Melanie Hamilton in the movie Gone with the Wind) were among the guests.

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Nabil Debabha Sells Fruits and Nuts

May 23rd, 2012
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Nabil Debabha

Nabil Debabha
Photo by www.DiscoverParis.net

Returning home Thursday afternoon after watching a jazz concert on the Saint Louis bridge, I passed by a small shop on Ile Saint-Louis located at the intersection of rue des Deux Ponts and quai d’Orléans. The shop window displays baskets of dried fruits, large glass jars of nuts, and trays of Oriental sweets that look like colorful flowers. The shop keeper, whose name I later learned is Nabil Debabha, called out from inside the boutique that he sells a wide variety of these delicacies. Intrigued, I stepped inside to learn more.

Nabil offered samples of his dried fruits to taste, including dried kiwi, melon, mango, cranberry, blueberry, raisin, peach, orange, gooseberry, goji berry, and even…white blackberry. Some of the fruits, such as blueberry and cranberry, have been re-hydrated in pomegranate molasses, which gives them a delicious, sweet flavor. He told me that some of the nuts have been grilled with saffron and lemon, and offered me a sample of blanched almonds grilled in rapeseed oil, Brazil nuts, Macadamia nuts, and cashews. He grills some of the nuts in argan oil, which, I learned later, is produced in Morocco.

As for the flower-like Oriental sweets, these are made from 80% almond or pistachio paste and are flavored with cinnamon, rose water, orange-flower water, or almond kernels. Nabil showed me his baklava bourgoise, a three-layered baklava consisting of a layer each of pine nut, pistachio, and almond. I tasted this, and it is fabulous!

Goji Berries

Goji Berries
Photo by www.DiscoverParis.net

At Nabil’s suggestion, I purchased 100 grams of goji, a berry cultivated in China. Dried goji are small and shriveled. When I popped a few in my mouth they first tasted slightly salty. As I began chewing, a sweet, mild flavor came through. I can’t think of any berry that has a similar flavor. It is a product that one has to try for oneself to appreciate!

Travelers to Paris will surely be as intrigued as I was to see and sample Nabil’s wide variety of nuts and dried fruits, some of which are quite exotic.

Nabil’s shop is located at 1, rue des Deux Ponts, on Ile Saint-Louis in the 4th arrondissement of Paris. He is open seven days a week from 10:30 a.m. to 11:00 p.m. There is no name on the store front. Just look for the display of fruits, nuts, and sweets in the window!

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Tales of Storms and Other Encounters
A Book Review by Monique Y. Wells

May 18th, 2012
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Tales of Storms and Other Encounters

Tales of Storms and Other Encounters is a stimulating book of short stories by Michele S. Kurlander. Kurlander is a Francophile like few others I’ve met. She frequently writes articles about her experiences in Paris and has included two stories about the city in Tales of Storms, which is her first book.

In “Notre Dame,” the young protagonist Angela seeks redemption within the cathedral whose “two muscular arms reached up into the sky” and whose “faceted circle of stone rested in its forehead like a third eye.” All the helplessness and confusion that Angela feels are evoked in Kurlander’s description of the cold, wet city that she encounters as she searches for the church and again when she is caught in a downpour after running from it with money that she has stolen from a coin box. Derek, the cause of her distress, has brought her to the City of Light and she thinks that she has escaped him. But fate has something different in mind…

“The Bridge” is the story of a married woman who was caught in a rainstorm and “saved” from an old beggar woman on the Pont des Arts by a handsome Frenchman. We find her writing a letter to her husband Bill about her experience of that day – without mention of the Frenchman, of course. Her narrative includes many common threads in American observations about Paris – the small size of her very expensive hotel room, the propensity for the sky to cloud over at a moment’s notice, the feeling of being a “real world traveler…”

Kurlander paints the scene at the bridge so vividly that those who know Paris will be able to see it unfold as though they were watching it on television or at the cinema. The city’s role in the story is as intimate as the romantic encounter between the woman and the Frenchman. His name is Jean-Pierre. We never learn the identity of the woman.

There are eight additional stories in Tales of Storms and Other Encounters, many of which are set in Kurlander’s home town of Chicago. I enjoyed them all! As the press release about the book states, “Not everything goes as you expect it to. You may be surprised – or shocked. You won’t be bored.”

Tales of Storms and Other Encounters is available at:

Shakespeare and Company, 37 rue Bûcherie, 75005 Paris, telephone: 01.43.25.40.93

Sandmeyer’s Bookstore, 714 South Dearborn Street, Chicago, IL 60605, telephone:
(312) 922-2104

From the author: lawmichele [at] aol [dot] com.

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Three Single-origin Chocolates by Fabrice Gillotte

May 16th, 2012
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Three Single-origin Chocolates by Fabrice Gillotte

Three Single-origin Chocolates by Fabrice Gillotte
Photo by www.DiscoverParis.net

Fabrice Gillotte creates fine chocolates at his factory in Burgundy. He has been honored with a number of awards for his work, including Meilleur Ouvrier de France in 1990.

We stopped by Mococha on rue Mouffetard where Marie-Hélène Gantois sells a selection of fine chocolates from French chocolate makers, including single-origin chocolates by Fabrice Gillote.

We purchased a 70g tablet each of Equateur, Sâo Thomé, and Papouasie – Nouvelle Guinée, and took them home to taste.

We found the Equateur (72% chocolate) to be quite bitter. Firm to the bite, smooth on the tongue, it did not melt rapidly nor reveal many flavors.

The Sâo Thomé (75% chocolate) had a firm, smooth texture and tasted earthy. It expressed animal notes and a “welcome to the farm” flavor. This chocolate is not for the timorous! We liked this one the best.

The Papouasie – Nouvelle Guinée (72% chocolate) was the mildest of the three, with notes of fruit and spice.

Mococha
89, rue Mouffetard
75005 Paris
Telephone: 01.47.07.13.66

Bonne dégustation!

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