Celebrating Darkness in the City of Light

June 22nd, 2012
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François Parisi and Cybèle Castoriadis

François Parisi and Cybèle Castoriadis
Photo by www.DiscoverParis.net

The annual Fête de la Musique was held in Paris yesterday, with musicians and singers appearing on street corners and in bars, pubs, and restaurants throughout the city to celebrate the beginning of summer.

For my part, I chose to attend a unique concert at the Bibliothèque des Litteratures Policières, where I heard Cybèle Castoriadis sing not happy, joyous songs that the official arrival of summer would occasion, but brooding, sinister songs about the darker side of life in Paris. Indeed, apart from the Paris Police Museum that stands only a few blocks away, there would be no better place to perform these songs but at the Bibliothèque des Litteratures Policières, a city library dedicated to the crime-thriller literary genre.

For over an hour, Cybèle, accompanied by accordionist François Parisi, regaled the audience with such French chansons as “Le Boucher de la Rue de Flandres,” about a butcher who turned to murder and deboned his victims; “La Vipère du Trottoir,” about a woman who willingly submitted to prostitution and betrayed her pimp, who, in turn, murdered her; “Le Chat Qui Miaule,” about a burglar whose victim is awakened by the meow of a cat and, consequently, gets strangled by the intruder. There were eighteen songs in all, and the topics seemed to get more shocking as the concert progressed. It was enough to send chills down one’s spine! Which is the point, of course, and is exactly what people seek when they pick up a crime thriller…or attend a cabaret to hear these songs performed.

I had a chance to speak briefly with the accordionist. He told me that he recorded two melodies for the soundtrack of the movie Midnight in Paris. Later, I searched his name on the Internet and found their names: “Ballad du Paris” and “Le Parc de Plaisir.” To hear a sample of his music, go to the landing page of his Web site. The melody “Annie-Zette” that plays immediately is a wonderful example of Paris musette at its best!

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We’re the First to Review La Grosse Mignonne

June 20th, 2012
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Xavier Chocq, Chef and Claire Bouchilloux, Proprietor

Xavier Chocq, Chef
Claire Bouchilloux, Proprietor
Photo by www.DiscoverParis.net

Last month we took the metro to the nearby town of Montreuil where we dined at a restaurant called La Grosse Mignonne. As well as enjoying a great meal, we also had the pleasure of listening to an entertainer named Vilna sing a medley of Brazilian songs. Every Saturday evening there is a music concert featuring jazz or world music.

On Friday and Saturday evenings during the month of March, La Grosse Mignonne holds jazz manouche (gypsy jazz) concerts under the sponsorship of David Reinhardt, the grandson of the famous Django Reinhardt. Some of the top performers in this musical genre come to the restaurant to play!

Read about the restaurant in this month’s Paris Insights. Our review is the only full-length review of La Grosse Mignonne that you will find on the Internet.

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Bonne Lecture…et Bon Appétit!

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Unless Your Father Gets on the Plane Today…

June 16th, 2012
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Paris Insights - An Anthology

…he won’t arrive in Paris in time for Father’s Day tomorrow!

The next best thing to being in Paris is reading about it and it’s not too late to give your father my inspirational book Paris Insights – An Anthology for Father’s Day. Thanks to Amazon’s Whispernet technology, the Kindle edition can be delivered instantly.

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Better than a power drill or a necktie for Father’s Day, Paris Insights – An Anthology is a gift that offers an insider’s view of the things to love about Paris.

Our book is available in three editions: Premium (full color), Travelers’ (black and white), and Kindle (electronic). Click here to learn more or to purchase now!

Just in time for Father’s Day—the Kindle edition can be purchased and downloaded immediately!

Discover the beauty and passion of the world’s most fascinating city in Paris Insights – An Anthology.

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Tasting Olive Oil from the Orchard of Chantal de Lander-Gaubens

June 13th, 2012
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Chantal de Lander-Gaubens - Domaine de Vautubière

Chantal de Lander-Gaubens
Photo by www.DiscoverParis.net

On Saturday, June 2, I paid a visit to the Boutique Ephémère (Ephemeral Boutique) located in the 15th arrondissement of Paris. There I purchased a bottle of oil produced from olives grown by Chantal de Lander-Gaubens on her farm (called Domaine de Vautubière) near Aix-en-Provence in southern France. Chantal had driven to Paris to sell her olive oil over a three-day period at the Ephemeral Boutique. I had read somewhere that her oil is produced by the traditional method, so I made a special effort to get to the boutique to buy a bottle.

The traditional method of olive oil production involves squeezing the juice of the olives using a hydraulic press and then painstakingly skimming the oil off the top of the juice using a large, slightly convex, metal disk (called a feuille in French).

But let me start from the beginning of the procedure!

After the harvest, the olives are placed in a vat for a short period of time to allow them to ripen. They are then ground into paste, using millstones. The paste is spread onto fiber disks and the disks are stacked under a hydraulic press which squeezes out the olive juice. (In the old days, the millstones and press were powered by farm animals. Nowadays, they are powered by electric motors.)

The olive juice flows into a vat, where the oil rises to the top and is separated from the juice by hand with the feuille. (The modern method uses a centrifuge to separate the liquids.)

The oil is then stored in stainless steel vats, bottled, and sold.

An explanation of this process (in French) with photos can be seen on Chantal’s Web site.

AOC Olive Oil and Traditional Olive Oil

AOC Olive Oil and Traditional Olive Oil
Produced by Domaine de Vautubière
Photo by www.DiscoverParis.net

After I purchased of a bottle of her Traditional olive oil, Chantal offered me a small bottle of AOC oil. The difference between the two, I later learned, is technical. The Traditional olive oil comes from olives that have been aged a few days longer than the AOC oil. The symbol “AOC” on the bottle is a certification that the olives come from the delimited region in which her farm is located. Chantal told me that the “Traditional” olive oil also comes from her farm, but, if I understood correctly, the oil does not qualify for the “AOC” label because the “Traditional” olives have been aged slightly longer than what is permitted for obtaining an “AOC” label.

I took the olive oils home and tasted them at the first opportunity. Monique and I poured them into small spoons and tasted each one. When we knew which oil we were tasting, we thought that we could distinguish one from the other. However, when we performed a blind taste test, we were, with one exception, unable to distinguish them.

We liked the taste of the oils. Both were smooth, mild, and surprisingly sweet. Neither had the peppery aftertaste that one usually associates with olive oil. The AOC oil was the sweetest, and the Traditional oil had a fruity flavor.

We enjoyed the opportunity to taste these olive oils, particularly because they are produced by traditional methods that are rarely used in this increasingly mechanized world of mass-produced food products. Chantal told me that she will bring a limited-production oil, called “La Fleur d’Huile,” from her farm the next time that she comes to Paris. We look forward to trying that one!

Domaine de Vautubière
13111 Coudoux
France
Tel.: 04.42.52.12.23
Web site: www.huiledecoudoux.com

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We May Well Be…the First Anglophone Bloggers to Review the Gentle Gourmet Café

June 11th, 2012
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Gentle Gourmet Café

Gentle Gourmet Café
Photo by www.DiscoverParis.net

The Gentle Gourmet Café opened in mid-May along the Port de Plaisance, a marina for small craft and pleasure boats that lies to the south of place de la Bastille. We dined there on Friday, June 1, and enjoyed a fine vegan meal. Read our review in this week’s Paris Insights—The Restaurant Review.

To gain access to our reviews, all you need to do is to sign up at the following link: http://www.parisinsights.com/restaurants.php.

Bon appétit!

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Battle of the Bands in the Metro

June 9th, 2012
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Whiskybaba

Whiskybaba
Photo by www.DiscoverParis.net

On Friday, May 4, I attended a concert in metro station Miromesnil where six bands competed for the opportunity to appear at the annual Solidays three-day mega-concert to be held in late June. One of the bands was Whiskybaba, whose on-stage antics made me smile!

I wrote about the concert in this month’s Paris Insights, a monthly newsletter that brings you insider information about culture, history, and contemporary life in the City of Light.

To view a preview of the newsletter, click here.

Paris Insights is published monthly as a downloadable PDF file. It is available only to paid subscribers for an annual subscription fee of $30.

If you are not a paid subscriber and would like to download the newsletter, please click here. Enter promotional code 11473309154 to receive a $5 discount off the price of an annual subscription.

Bonne lecture!

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Visit to La Fabrique de la Ville

June 8th, 2012
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On Saturday May 12, I took the metro to the Paris suburb of Saint-Denis, where I joined a group of about fifteen persons for a walking tour of some of the archeological sites of the town. The tour was led by Nicole Rodrigues, director of the architectural unit of the city. We were fortunate to have such a knowledgeable person lead the group! Nicole pointed out that Saint-Denis is rich in archeological sites that date as far back as Late Antiquity, when Frankish kings ruled this land.

So important is Saint-Denis’ archeological heritage that the city goes to extraordinary lengths to inform and educate its citizens about this precious legacy. The walking tour in which I participated is one of the many ways that the city engages its citizens in this effort.

Fabrique de la Ville

Fabrique de la Ville
Photo by www.DiscoverParis.net

For me, the high point of the visit was a tour of the “Fabrique de la Ville,” a restoration project of what is believed to be (apart from the Basilica of Saint Denis) the oldest building in the city. The building’s roof has been stripped, exposing its rafters so that archeologists can examine them carefully. By extracting small cores of wood from the beams, these scientists have been able to determine that the tree from which the wood was cut was harvested in the year 1482.

After the roof was stripped, the city built a tent to cover the building to protect it from the elements so that archeological exploration could continue. At the same time, the city erected scaffolding to permit members of the archeological team to give guided tours of the project.

Following the Leader

Following the Leader
Photo by www.DiscoverParis.net

Nicole Rodrigues Talks about the History of the Old Building

Nicole Rodrigues Talks about the History of the Old Building
Photo by www.DiscoverParis.net

When we arrived at the project, we were instructed to don safety helmets and to follow Nicole up the stairs of the scaffolding, where she talked about the history of the building. In the photo above, she shows a sketch that illustrates what the building and its adjoining structures once looked like.

Rafters of Old Building

Rafters of Old Building
Photo by www.DiscoverParis.net

We climbed higher, and there we were at roof-top height! We could clearly see for ourselves that the rafters were still sturdy after all these years (530 to be exact). But that wasn’t all. The surprise came when we learned that we could climb to the top of a belvedere for a spectacular view of the Saint-Denis skyline.

So, up we went, five persons at a time.

View of Paris to the South

View of Paris to the South
Photo by www.DiscoverParis.net

In the photograph above, the Sacré-Cœur Basilica can be seen on the horizon.

View of Saint-Denis to the East

View of Saint-Denis to the East
Photo by www.DiscoverParis.net

In the photograph above, the Stade de France can be seen on the horizon.

View of Saint-Denis to the North

View of Saint-Denis to the North
Photo by www.DiscoverParis.net

In the photograph above, the Basilica of Saint Denis can be seen.

It was a spectacular end to an enlightening tour of the city!

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Is This Man the Most Intrepid Blogger in All of Ile-de-France?

June 7th, 2012
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Fearless Blogger Prepares to Enter Dangerous Construction Site

Fearless Blogger Prepares to Enter
Construction Site in Saint-Denis
Photo by www.DiscoverParis.net

Who is this stalwart blogger? And what danger could he possibly be facing that requires him to wear this silly-looking safety helmet? Come back tomorrow to find out!

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Tasting Confiseries à la Figue

June 6th, 2012
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Confiseries à la Figue from Première Pression Provence

Confiseries à la Figue from Première Pression Provence
Photo by www.DiscoverParis.net

During our last visit to Première Pression Provence, manager Jenna Thornton offered us a package of confiseries à la figue that are made in Provence. We took them home, tasted them, and found that we liked them very much!

These round, three-layered sweets measure 7/8″ in diameter and are 1/2″ thick. The top layer consists of hard-sugar frosting, the middle layer a pasty confection of fig, almond, and melon, and the bottom layer a paper-thin azyme made from potato starch and sunflower oil. Small enough to pop into the mouth, they are sweet and chewy. The immediate and lasting flavor that I experienced was, strangely enough, cinnamon, which is not even an ingredient. It must have been the fig that I tasted, which, for me, has a cinnamon-like flavor. Monique declared that almond was the predominant flavor.

Première Pression Provence
51, rue Saint-Louis-en-l’Ile
75004 Paris
Telephone: 09.66.98.23.48

Open Sunday to Friday 10:30 a.m. – 8:00 p.m.
Saturday 10:30 a.m. – 10:00 p.m

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Musicians in the Metro – Part I

June 1st, 2012
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La Réprise

La Réprise
Photo by www.DiscoverParis.net

Travelers to Paris who use the metro to get around the city will, sooner or later, come upon any of the 300 musicians who perform in its passageways. In April, we had the opportunity to attend an audition held by Espace Métro Accords, where we participated on a jury to help determine which of the competing musicians should be granted a license to play there. Read about how the selection process is made in this month’s Paris Insights.

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Bonne lecture!

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