Posts Tagged ‘Marché de Saint-Denis’

A Visit to the Marché de Saint-Denis – Part V

Sunday, April 8th, 2012
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Mathilde Christnacht and Rudy Barious

Mathilde Christnacht and Rudy Barious
Photo by www.DiscoverParis.net

After Philippe finished his shopping, he returned to the restaurant with his groceries to begin preparation of the lunchtime service. Mathilde and I stayed at the market a while longer, as there was one more thing that she wanted me to see.

Mathilde took me over to the crêperie stand that was operated by Rudy Barious. I blogged about his shop La Bigoudène Café back in March and was both surprised and happy to find him here cooking up crêpes for early-morning shoppers!

Rudy Making Sarrasin Crêpe with Chestnut Honey

Rudy Making Sarrasin Crêpe with Chestnut Honey
Photo by DiscoverParis.net

I ordered a sarrasin (buckwheat) crêpe with chestnut honey. Rudy advised me that the honey would taste slightly bitter, but I didn’t change my mind.

Indeed, the crêpe did taste bittersweet. However, I enjoyed the rustic, earthy flavor of the buttered buckwheat crêpe with chestnut honey. A delicious combination!

That ended my morning with Philippe and Mathilde at the Saint-Denis market. There is so much more to see! I’ll return soon.

Marché de Saint-Denis
Place Victor Hugo
93200 Saint-Denis
Open Tuesday, Friday, and Sunday from 7:30 a.m. to 1:30 p.m.
Métro: Basilique de Saint-Denis (Line 13)

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A Visit to the Marché de Saint-Denis – Part IV

Saturday, April 7th, 2012
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Philippe and Nadine at the Delicatessen Stand

Philippe and Nadine at the Boiton Rabain Delicatessen Stand
Photo by www.DiscoverParis.net

Our final stop was at the butcher-delicatessen stand called Boiton Rabain. Philippe purchased 5 kilograms of tripe from this vendor, whose family origins trace back to the Auvergne region in central France.

The sign behind Nadine declares that the products are artisanal (that is, not industrially produced). Nadine gave me a few slices of saucisse sèche maison (house-made dried sausage) to sample. It was delicious!

Laurent and Nadine at the Boiton Rabain Charcuterie Stand

Laurent and Nadine at the Boiton Rabain Delicatessen Stand
Photo by www.DiscoverParis.net

It was at this point that Nadine saw my camera. She started cutting up to make us laugh, turning an ordinary shopping excursion into a theatrical experience!

Nadine

Nadine
Photo by www.DiscoverParis.net

Doesn’t she look like a Hollywood movie star?

Nadine and Philippe

Nadine and Philippe
Photo by www.DiscoverParis.net

The height of her playfulness came when she gave Philippe a sweet caress. Oh, lucky man!

Tomorrow: I buy a buckwheat crêpe from La Bigodène crêpe stand.

Marché de Saint-Denis
Place Victor Hugo
93200 Saint-Denis
Open Tuesday, Friday, and Sunday from 7:30 a.m. to 1:30 p.m.
Métro: Basilique de Saint-Denis (Line 13)

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A Visit to the Marché de Saint-Denis – Part III

Friday, April 6th, 2012
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During the Middle Ages, an enormous market called La Foire du Lendit was held every year just outside of Saint-Denis. From June 11 to June 24, it attracted buyers and sellers from all over Europe. In 1556, King Henri II moved it within the city walls, where the modern Marché de Saint-Denis continues the market tradition today.

Philippe Rochette Buys Parsley at the Aromatic Herb Stand

Philippe Rochette Buys Parsley at the Aromatic Herb Stand
Photo by www.DiscoverParis.net

Zohire Sells Aromatic Herbs

Zohire Sells Aromatic Herbs
Photo by www.DiscoverParis.net

We stopped at the aromatic herb stand where Philippe purchased a bunch of parsley. Aziz, the proprietor (not pictured), offered me a bunch of fresh mint. I took it home and brewed it in hot water. With a little sugar added, it produced a refreshing hot mint tea.

Harry at Tripe Stand

Harry at Tripe Stand
Photo by www.DiscoverParis.net

Although Philippe didn’t buy any provisions at the tripe stand, he introduced me to Harry, who works there.

Michel at Maison Haësig Meat Stand

Michel at Maison Haësig Meat Stand
Photo by www.DiscoverParis.net

He also introduced me to Michel, who works at the Maison Haësig meat stand. Michel is a butcher in the town of Stans, and comes to the Saint-Denis market on Tuesdays.

Madame Vandezande with Daughter Aurélie

Madame Vandezande with Daughter Aurélie at the Vegetable Stand
Photo by www.DiscoverParis.net

Philippe purchased some watercress from Madame Vandezande. She and her husband cultivate vegetables in L’Oise, a département in the Picardie region of France. What a great privilege to be able to buy products fresh from the farm at the Saint-Denis market!

Join me tomorrow, when we finish our grocery shopping with a crêpe and a caress!

Marché de Saint-Denis
Place Victor Hugo
93200 Saint-Denis
Open Tuesday, Friday, and Sunday from 7:30 a.m. to 1:30 p.m.
Métro: Basilique de Saint-Denis (Line 13)

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A Visit to the Marché de Saint-Denis – Part II

Thursday, April 5th, 2012
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During my market visit with Philippe Rochette, I learned that he does not plan in advance the dishes that he serves at his restaurant on any particular day. Instead, he goes around the market to see what the vendors are selling and determines on the spot what he will prepare.

Philippe Rochette at the Stand of Pascal Vavasseur

Philippe Rochette at the Fruit Stand of Pascal Vavasseur
Photo by www.DiscoverParis.net

Madame Vavasseur

Madame Vavasseur
Photo by www.DiscoverParis.net

Our first stop was at the fruit stand of Pascal Vavasseur, who sells products straight from his orchard in Val-d’Oise. Philippe purchased a sack of Starkinson apples for only 1€ a kilogram! Jonagold apples were selling for the same price.

Les Volailles des Prés

Les Volailles des Prés
Photo by www.DiscoverParis.net

At the next stand, Philippe stopped to buy eggs and free-range guinea fowl. The birds came from Chalans in Vendée, an administrative département in west-central France. The producer there won a Bronze Medal in 2011 at the Salon International de l’Agriculture held in Paris.

Buying Beets at Chez Colette

Buying Beets at Chez Colette
Photo by www.DiscoverParis.net

Philippe selected some nice beets selling for 2.50€/kg at a vegetable stand called Chez Colette. He picked up each one with a two-pronged fork and examined it carefully before putting it in his bag…or rejecting it.

Anne-Laure - La Ferme Sainte-Anne

Anne-Laure of La Ferme Sainte-Anne
Photo by www.DiscoverParis.net

Next, we stopped by La Ferme Sainte-Anne where Philippe purchased some Comté, a semi-hard, unpasteurized, cow’s milk cheese from the Franche-Comté region of eastern France.

Join me tomorrow for some more grocery shopping at the Marché de Saint-Denis!

Marché de Saint-Denis
Place Victor Hugo
93200 Saint-Denis
Open Tuesday, Friday, and Sunday from 7:30 a.m. to 1:30 p.m.
Métro: Basilique de Saint-Denis (Line 13)

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A Visit to the Marché de Saint-Denis – Part I

Wednesday, April 4th, 2012
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Yesterday found me getting out of bed at 5:45 a.m. to catch a bus and then a metro out to the neighboring town of Saint-Denis for a 7:30 a.m. rendezvous with Mathilde Christnacht of the Seine-Saint-Denis Department of Tourism. I met her and Philippe Rochette for an early-morning tour of the food market there. The purpose of the tour was to watch Philippe, owner and chef of a local restaurant called Chez Rochette, make purchases for his lunchtime service.

Marché de Saint-Denis

Marché de Saint-Denis in the Early-morning Light
Photo by www.DiscoverParis.net

The Saint-Denis market is located in a handsome 19th century halle that was renovated and brought up to modern standards in 2005. It shelters 80 food stands selling such diverse products as fish, meat, tripe, sausages, fruit, vegetables, and more. Farm-fresh produce comes from the region and beyond. The market is one of the biggest in Ile-de-France!

The first thing that I noticed during the tour was the price of the products. They were certainly much lower than the prices that one finds at the markets in Paris. Only 1€ for a kilogram of Starkinson apples!

And the second thing that I noticed was the camaraderie among the vendors and buyers. There was so much good-natured joking at every stand that within five minutes of arriving I was smiling from ear to ear. This joyous joshing certainly makes grocery shopping in any supermarket akin to attending a funeral!

Philippe Rochette - Tom Reeves - Nicolas Gagnère

Philippe Rochette, Owner of Chez Rochette
Tom Reeves of Paris Insights
Nicolas Gagnère, Maître d'hôtel at Chez Rochette
Photo taken by Mathilde Christnacht

Join me tomorrow when we walk from stand to stand to buy fresh produce!

Marché de Saint-Denis
Place Victor Hugo
93200 Saint-Denis
Open Tuesday, Friday, and Sunday from 7:30 a.m. to 1:30 p.m.
Métro: Basilique de Saint-Denis (Line 13)

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We participate in Wanderfood Wednesdays. Head over there to explore food from around the world!

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