Archive for May, 2012

Daniel Ungaro Grows Olives

Wednesday, May 30th, 2012
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Daniel Ungaro

Daniel Ungaro, Olive Oil Producer
Photo by www.DiscoverParis.net

Daniel Ungaro grows olives in the Vaucluse, a French administrative département in southeastern France. He recently paid a visit to the Première Pression Provence shop on Ile Saint-Louis in Paris, where we asked him some questions about olive growing.

He told us that most of his annual production of 2,000 liters comes from olive trees that are twelve years old. During harvest season, he watches the olives carefully and when they are ready, he spreads netting under the trees and shakes the trunks with a machine. The olives drop from the tree limbs into the nets; none that reach the ground can be used for pressing. He once hired workers to harvest his olives by hand, but the cost of labor now makes this method prohibitively expensive.

One of the surprising facts that he told us about olive trees is that they do not have natural pollinators (such as bees or other insects). Instead, it is the Mistral, a strong wind from the north that blows down to the Mediterranean, that pollinates the trees.

We tasted one of Daniel’s oils, “La Cavalerie,” produced from olives that have just started to ripen. It has a powerful, peppery flavor. Not for the timid! Jenna Thornton, manager of the store, served a number of hors d’oœvres, including chunks of country bread drizzled with the oil and sprinkled with tomato powder, goat cheese with garlic marinated in the oil and served on slices of baguette, and thinly-sliced raw zucchini flavored with fresh, crushed mint and drizzled with his oil. All were appetizing dishes!

La Cavalerie Olive Oil by Daniel Ungaro

La Cavalerie Olive Oil by Daniel Ungaro
Photo by www.DiscoverParis.net

For more information about Daniel Ungaro, click here.

Première Pression Provence
51, rue Saint-Louis-en-l’Ile
75004 Paris
Telephone: 09.66.98.23.48

Open Sunday to Friday 10:30 a.m. – 8:00 p.m.
Saturday 10:30 a.m. – 10:00 p.m

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Author and Historian David McCullough Feted at the U.S. Ambassador’s Residence

Saturday, May 26th, 2012
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Monique Y. Wells and David McCullough at the U.S. Ambassador's Residence in Paris

David McCullough Autographs His Book The Greater Journey for Monique Y. Wells, Co-founder of Discover Paris!
Photo by www.DiscoverParis.net

David McCullough, award-winning author and historian, was guest of honor at the U.S. Ambassador’s residence in Paris last night. His most recent book, The Greater Journey, is about Americans who lived in Paris from the 1830s to the 1900s.

In his speech, McCullough talked about the importance of the Franco-American relationship, asserting that the United States would not have gained its independence without the financial, military, and intellectual support of France. In reference to France’s intellectual influence, he stated the the founding fathers who came to Paris felt at home here because the ideals of freedom were being discussed in intellectual circles at that time.

A speaker on hundreds of college campuses, McCullough spoke of his dismay that students today are historically illiterate. He talked about the importance of studying history and stated that history is more than just political and military narrative. History covers all human activity, including art, architecture, music, and poetry.

History, he said, shows that individuals cannot achieve great things alone, that they must work with others in a community. An historian, he said, is forcibly a short-term pessimist and a long-term optimist.

McCullough came to Paris for the first time in 1961. He loves the city and the research that he performs here. He was particularly proud to announce that his granddaughter, who attended the event, is currently studying French in Paris.

A film crew from the Public Broadcasting System filmed McCullough’s presentation. Journalist Morley Safer and stage and screen star Olivia de Havilland (who played the roll of Melanie Hamilton in the movie Gone with the Wind) were among the guests.

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Nabil Debabha Sells Fruits and Nuts

Wednesday, May 23rd, 2012
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Nabil Debabha

Nabil Debabha
Photo by www.DiscoverParis.net

Returning home Thursday afternoon after watching a jazz concert on the Saint Louis bridge, I passed by a small shop on Ile Saint-Louis located at the intersection of rue des Deux Ponts and quai d’Orléans. The shop window displays baskets of dried fruits, large glass jars of nuts, and trays of Oriental sweets that look like colorful flowers. The shop keeper, whose name I later learned is Nabil Debabha, called out from inside the boutique that he sells a wide variety of these delicacies. Intrigued, I stepped inside to learn more.

Nabil offered samples of his dried fruits to taste, including dried kiwi, melon, mango, cranberry, blueberry, raisin, peach, orange, gooseberry, goji berry, and even…white blackberry. Some of the fruits, such as blueberry and cranberry, have been re-hydrated in pomegranate molasses, which gives them a delicious, sweet flavor. He told me that some of the nuts have been grilled with saffron and lemon, and offered me a sample of blanched almonds grilled in rapeseed oil, Brazil nuts, Macadamia nuts, and cashews. He grills some of the nuts in argan oil, which, I learned later, is produced in Morocco.

As for the flower-like Oriental sweets, these are made from 80% almond or pistachio paste and are flavored with cinnamon, rose water, orange-flower water, or almond kernels. Nabil showed me his baklava bourgoise, a three-layered baklava consisting of a layer each of pine nut, pistachio, and almond. I tasted this, and it is fabulous!

Goji Berries

Goji Berries
Photo by www.DiscoverParis.net

At Nabil’s suggestion, I purchased 100 grams of goji, a berry cultivated in China. Dried goji are small and shriveled. When I popped a few in my mouth they first tasted slightly salty. As I began chewing, a sweet, mild flavor came through. I can’t think of any berry that has a similar flavor. It is a product that one has to try for oneself to appreciate!

Travelers to Paris will surely be as intrigued as I was to see and sample Nabil’s wide variety of nuts and dried fruits, some of which are quite exotic.

Nabil’s shop is located at 1, rue des Deux Ponts, on Ile Saint-Louis in the 4th arrondissement of Paris. He is open seven days a week from 10:30 a.m. to 11:00 p.m. There is no name on the store front. Just look for the display of fruits, nuts, and sweets in the window!

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Tales of Storms and Other Encounters
A Book Review by Monique Y. Wells

Friday, May 18th, 2012
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Tales of Storms and Other Encounters

Tales of Storms and Other Encounters is a stimulating book of short stories by Michele S. Kurlander. Kurlander is a Francophile like few others I’ve met. She frequently writes articles about her experiences in Paris and has included two stories about the city in Tales of Storms, which is her first book.

In “Notre Dame,” the young protagonist Angela seeks redemption within the cathedral whose “two muscular arms reached up into the sky” and whose “faceted circle of stone rested in its forehead like a third eye.” All the helplessness and confusion that Angela feels are evoked in Kurlander’s description of the cold, wet city that she encounters as she searches for the church and again when she is caught in a downpour after running from it with money that she has stolen from a coin box. Derek, the cause of her distress, has brought her to the City of Light and she thinks that she has escaped him. But fate has something different in mind…

“The Bridge” is the story of a married woman who was caught in a rainstorm and “saved” from an old beggar woman on the Pont des Arts by a handsome Frenchman. We find her writing a letter to her husband Bill about her experience of that day – without mention of the Frenchman, of course. Her narrative includes many common threads in American observations about Paris – the small size of her very expensive hotel room, the propensity for the sky to cloud over at a moment’s notice, the feeling of being a “real world traveler…”

Kurlander paints the scene at the bridge so vividly that those who know Paris will be able to see it unfold as though they were watching it on television or at the cinema. The city’s role in the story is as intimate as the romantic encounter between the woman and the Frenchman. His name is Jean-Pierre. We never learn the identity of the woman.

There are eight additional stories in Tales of Storms and Other Encounters, many of which are set in Kurlander’s home town of Chicago. I enjoyed them all! As the press release about the book states, “Not everything goes as you expect it to. You may be surprised – or shocked. You won’t be bored.”

Tales of Storms and Other Encounters is available at:

Shakespeare and Company, 37 rue Bûcherie, 75005 Paris, telephone: 01.43.25.40.93

Sandmeyer’s Bookstore, 714 South Dearborn Street, Chicago, IL 60605, telephone:
(312) 922-2104

From the author: lawmichele [at] aol [dot] com.

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Three Single-origin Chocolates by Fabrice Gillotte

Wednesday, May 16th, 2012
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Three Single-origin Chocolates by Fabrice Gillotte

Three Single-origin Chocolates by Fabrice Gillotte
Photo by www.DiscoverParis.net

Fabrice Gillotte creates fine chocolates at his factory in Burgundy. He has been honored with a number of awards for his work, including Meilleur Ouvrier de France in 1990.

We stopped by Mococha on rue Mouffetard where Marie-Hélène Gantois sells a selection of fine chocolates from French chocolate makers, including single-origin chocolates by Fabrice Gillote.

We purchased a 70g tablet each of Equateur, Sâo Thomé, and Papouasie – Nouvelle Guinée, and took them home to taste.

We found the Equateur (72% chocolate) to be quite bitter. Firm to the bite, smooth on the tongue, it did not melt rapidly nor reveal many flavors.

The Sâo Thomé (75% chocolate) had a firm, smooth texture and tasted earthy. It expressed animal notes and a “welcome to the farm” flavor. This chocolate is not for the timorous! We liked this one the best.

The Papouasie – Nouvelle Guinée (72% chocolate) was the mildest of the three, with notes of fruit and spice.

Mococha
89, rue Mouffetard
75005 Paris
Telephone: 01.47.07.13.66

Bonne dégustation!

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Tasting Three Olive Oils from Première Pression Provence

Wednesday, May 9th, 2012
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Three Olive Oils from Première Pression Provence

Three Olive Oils from Première Pression Provence
Photo by www.DiscoverParis.net

To research information about olive oil for this month’s Paris Insights newsletter, we purchased three types of the product from Première Pression Provence, a shop on rue Saint-Louis-en-l’Ile. The company sells oils supplied by roughly 35 small producers in Provence, a region in southern France.

There are three basic types of olive oil sold in the shop: green fruité (from olives harvested prematurely), ripe fruité (from olives picked at maturity), and black fruité (from ripe-harvested olives that have been stored under controlled conditions). We chose one of each category, each from a different producer. We took them home and tasted the oils from a spoon or drizzled on a slice of fresh baguette.

We found the green fruité from Daniel Ungaro to taste like unripened banana. It was sweet and had a sharp peppery finish.

The ripe fruité from Oliver Roux was slightly sweet with a mild peppery finish.

The black fruité from Pierre-Guy Desrousseaux was quite aromatic and slightly sweet with a peppery finish.

Each oil had a distinctive taste, with the green being sharp and the ripe and black being rounded and smooth with full-fruit flavor.

If you, the reader, have always thought that all olive oils taste the same, it is probably because you have been purchasing oils destined for mass consumption at supermarkets. Try an artisanal oil when you get the chance! They are more expensive than mass-produced oils, but you will taste the difference.

Première Pression Provence
51, rue Saint-Louis-en-l’Ile
75004 Paris
Telephone: 09.66.98.23.48

Open Sunday to Friday 10:30 a.m. – 8:00 p.m.
Saturday 10:30 a.m. – 10:00 p.m.

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Our Paris Insights newsletter is published monthly as a downloadable PDF file. It is available only to paid subscribers for an annual subscription fee of $30.

To view a preview of the newsletter, click here.

If you are not a paid subscriber and would like to download the newsletter, please click here. Enter promotional code 11473309154 to receive a $5 discount off the price of an annual subscription.

Bonne Lecture!

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Robyn Blaber Emerges Unscathed from Fencing Tournament

Tuesday, May 8th, 2012
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Robyn Blaber

Robyn Blaber
Photo by www.DiscoverParis.net

Robyn Blaber, better known as Sir Robyn to his friends, participated in a fencing tournament today. Called Tournois des Quais de Seine, Robyn preferred to call it “The Slaughter on the Water.” The event took place at Stade Pierre de Courbertin in the 16th arrondissement of Paris.

A Courteous Salute

A Courteous Salute
Photo by www.DiscoverParis.net

During a courteous salute before the bloodletting began, Robyn stared down his opponent.

Robyn Takes a Hit

Robyn Takes a Hit
Photo by www.DiscoverParis.net

Robyn, who started fencing for the first time only six months ago, was pleased with his performance in the competition. He said that he “took one good hit in the chest,” and brushed aside concern that it must have felt quite painful, saying “If you don’t have a few bruises [after the competition], then you’re not doing it right.”

Robyn Counterattacks

Robyn Counterattacks
Photo by www.DiscoverParis.net

Robyn gave back as good as he got!

More Fighting

More Fighting
Photo by www.DiscoverParis.net

Lunging, parrying, fighting…he battled to the bitter end! In the photo (above), a frightened young photographer runs by to avoid being massacred.

Alas! His valiant efforts were not enough. His team did not qualify for the second round. But there will be a next time!

Robyn Blaber - Classic Pose

Robyn Blaber in Classic Pose
Photo by www.DiscoverParis.net

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A Day at the Races with Gina Rarick – Part V

Sunday, May 6th, 2012
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The 2€ Guichet

The 2€ Guichet
Photo by www.DiscoverParis.net

Feeling heady with the possibility of placing a winning bet, I got in line at the 2€ guichet.

Placing a Bet

Placing a Bet
Photo by www.DiscoverParis.net

The gentleman behind the window recognized that I was a novice gambler, and asked me which horse I wanted to bet on. Since I was standing at a 2€ guichet, I decided to place the bet on horse number 2.

He then asked me whether I wanted to bet that the horse would win or place. I figured that since I was placing a 2€ bet on horse number 2, then I should wager that it would come in second, or “place.” It’s as good a system as any for placing a bet!

Will This Be the Winning Ticket?

Will This Be the Winning Ticket?
Photo by www.DiscoverParis.net

With the ticket in hand, we went off to watch the race on a monitor.

The Winning Race Number 2 Places Second

The Winning Race!
Number 2 Places Second!
Photo by www.DiscoverParis.net

The Winning Ticket

The Winning Ticket
Photo by www.DiscoverParis.net

Number 2 places second! Hooray! Let’s go back to the window and collect our winnings.

I Won All That!!!

I Won All That!!!
Photo by www.DiscoverParis.net

I handed the ticket to the gentleman and he prepared a wad of 100€ bills. He told us to get our camera ready and brought them up to show me. I watched, mouth agape, as he withdrew them after Monique took the photograph.

It was a good joke! “The hard reality, sir, is that you won six euros…”

Well, six euros is, at least, three times my wager! What a deal!

Entry to the Hippodrome

Entry to the Hippodrome
Photo by www.DiscoverParis.net

I pocketed my winnings and we left the racecourse. It had been a great day at the races!

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A Day at the Races with Gina Rarick – Part IV

Saturday, May 5th, 2012
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Jockey Coming Back from Race

Jockey Coming Back from Race on Her Nervous Horse
Photo by www.DiscoverParis.net

After the horses left the starting gate, we left too, and walked over to the gate where the horses would return after the race. From our position on the racecourse, we were unable to determine which horse had won that particular race, but we did take a picture of the returning jockey whose horse had been so nervous at the start (see Part III for a photo of the nervous horse).

Winning Horse in Winner's Circle

Winning Horse in Winner's Circle
Photo by www.DiscoverParis.net

After each race, the jockey rides the winning horse into the winner’s circle where photographers and admirers gather around to take pictures. In the picture above, the jockey had already dismounted and walked away before we got a chance to photograph him. He didn’t stay to bask in the glory of victory!

Gina Demonstes the Hand Ride

Gina Demonstes the Hand Ride
Photo by www.DiscoverParis.net

Gina had been telling us about a technique, called the “hand ride,” that jockeys use to get their horses to run faster, especially in the home stretch. Using a harness, she showed Monique how tightening the reins helps the jockey stay in harmony with the movement of the animal. At that point, the jockey shoves the horse’s neck forward with each forward movement of the neck during the gallop, giving extra impetus to the horse’s rhythm, making it run faster. For a video demonstration of the hand ride, follow this link: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QVHEoy1o_BY.

After watching a couple of thrilling races and feeling the excitement in the air, I decided to put my money down on a horse. I sensed that Lady Luck would smile on me that day.

Tomorrow: I win big at the racetrack!

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A Day at the Races with Gina Rarick – Part III

Friday, May 4th, 2012
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Gina Shows Us the Starting Gate

Gina Shows Us the Starting Gate
Photo by www.DiscoverParis.net

After taking us on a tour of the area where the horses warm up, Gina took us over to the starting gate.

What a Racehorse Sees

What a Racehorse Sees
Photo by www.DiscoverParis.net

Gina told us that sometimes horses don’t want to go into the starting gate, in which case the jockey, sitting in the saddle, will pull on the horse’s tail to get it to move forward into the gate. We witnessed this a number of times. On one occasion, we saw a jockey pulling on the tail of his horse and somehow the horse made a movement, throwing the jockey off. The horse fell, rolling onto the jockey. Ouch! An ambulance pulled up immediately and the jockey was put on a stretcher and taken off the track. And so the race continues! No time to pause to mourn the wounded.

Recalcitrant Racehorse

Recalcitrant Racehorse
Photo by www.DiscoverParis.net

Jockey Waiting for Her Horse

Jockey Waiting for Her Horse
Photo by www.DiscoverParis.net

Standing behind and to the side the starting gate (but separated from the racetrack by a hedge) we could watch the horses and their jockeys prepare for the race. One jockey’s horse was nervous, so the handler walked the horse to calm it. The jockey waited, trying to keep warm in the cold air.

Jockey and Racehorse Move into the Starting Gate

Jockey and Racehorse Move into the Starting Gate
Photo by www.DiscoverParis.net

Finally, her horse was ready. She mounted it and moved into the starting gate. Just in time, because everyone else was lining up.

Seconds before the Gates Open

Seconds before the Gates Open
Photo by www.DiscoverParis.net

There was a tense moment before the gates opened. And then suddenly…

The Start

The Start
Photo by www.DiscoverParis.net

Out of the Gate

Out of the Gate
Photo by www.DiscoverParis.net

…they were off!

Tomorrow: Gina shows Monique how to make the horse go faster!

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