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Archive for April, 2012

A Day Trip to Auvers-sur-Oise with PAN – Part II

Saturday, April 14th, 2012

Persan Beaumont
Photo by www.DiscoverParis.net

To get to Auvers-sur-Oise from Paris, we had to change trains at a town called Persan Beaumont. Our train left Paris at 9:34 and should have arrived in Persan Beaument at 10:19, giving us enough time to catch the 10:25 train to Auvers-sur-Oise.

Unfortunately, our train arrived in Persan Beaument about five minutes late. We got off the train, walked through the underground passage to the platform where the train bound for Auvers-sur-Oise was waiting, and walked up the stairs. Just as we arrived on the platform, the train pulled out of the station, leaving us stranded!

Persan Beaumont Train Station
Photo by www.DiscoverParis.net

What to do? We talked to a station agent who helped us call a taxi service to inquire about taking taxis to Auvers-sur-Oise. But the taxi company wanted to charge 76€ per taxi to take us there. So, we decided to wait for the next train, which would leave an hour later.

L'Etoile du Nord Café
Photo by www.DiscoverParis.net

To pass the time, we walked to a café that we saw, far down the street.

Waiting It Out
Photo by www.DiscoverParis.net

Most of us ordered café au lait, and the wait wasn’t so bad after all.

Turkish Toilet
Photo by www.DiscoverParis.net

Our big discovery there was the Turkish toilet in the men’s room. The ladies were treated to a standard sit-down model. What other surprises did the day have in store for us?

Tomorrow: The lovely town of Auvers-sur-Oise.

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Tags: L'Etoile du Nord Café, Persan Beaumont
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A Day Trip to Auvers-sur-Oise with PAN – Part I

Friday, April 13th, 2012

Auvers-sur-Oise Train Station
Photo by www.DiscoverParis.net

Wendesday morning found me on a train with a group of adventuresome travelers, all members of a club called Paris Alumnae/i Network. Member Patti Ravenscroft had organized a day trip to Auvers-sur-Oise to follow in the footsteps of Vincent Van Gogh, a Dutch post-Impressionist artist who spent the last days of his life there.

Gare du Nord
Photo by www.DiscoverParis.net

Navigating walkways, turnstiles, and stairways to get to the appropriate platform at the Gare du Nord in Paris can be a challenge if one is not familiar with the station. That was my case, so I arrived forty-five minutes before scheduled departure.

Direction Panel at Gare du Nord
Photo by www.DiscoverParis.net

There are several departure points in the station, including Grandes Lignes, RER, Métro, and Réseau Ile-de-France. I first entered the Grandes Lignes section, but when the yellow ticket machine there refused to deliver a ticket for Auvers-sur-Oise, I realized that I was in the wrong area.

Ticket Machine for Ile-de-France Trains
Photo by www.DiscoverParis.net

That’s better! The green ticket machine meant that I was in the Réseau Ile-de-France area. I purchased a round-trip ticket and set off to find the train.

Departure Panel at Gare du Nord
Photo by www.DiscoverParis.net

Confusion reigns! The departure panel did not give the platform number from which the train would leave. That isn’t posted until 20 minutes before departure.

Map of Regional Network
Photo by www.DiscoverParis.net

To add to the confusion, the train wasn’t direct. It would go to Persan Beaumont, at which point we would change to another train. Patti had told us this, but unless one pays attention to the route, one can easily get on the wrong train.

The members of the group began assembling in front of the departure panel (there were thirteen of us), and when the platform number was displayed we boarded the train bound for Persan Beaumont. We were on our way!

Tomorrow: What to do if you miss the connecting train.

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Tags: Auvers-sur-Oise, Paris Alumnae/i Network, Vincent Van Gogh
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A Visit to the Marché de Saint-Denis – Part V

Sunday, April 8th, 2012

Mathilde Christnacht and Rudy Barious
Photo by www.DiscoverParis.net

After Philippe finished his shopping, he returned to the restaurant with his groceries to begin preparation of the lunchtime service. Mathilde and I stayed at the market a while longer, as there was one more thing that she wanted me to see.

Mathilde took me over to the crêperie stand that was operated by Rudy Barious. I blogged about his shop La Bigoudène Café back in March and was both surprised and happy to find him here cooking up crêpes for early-morning shoppers!

Rudy Making Sarrasin Crêpe with Chestnut Honey
Photo by DiscoverParis.net

I ordered a sarrasin (buckwheat) crêpe with chestnut honey. Rudy advised me that the honey would taste slightly bitter, but I didn’t change my mind.

Indeed, the crêpe did taste bittersweet. However, I enjoyed the rustic, earthy flavor of the buttered buckwheat crêpe with chestnut honey. A delicious combination!

That ended my morning with Philippe and Mathilde at the Saint-Denis market. There is so much more to see! I’ll return soon.

Marché de Saint-Denis
Place Victor Hugo
93200 Saint-Denis
Open Tuesday, Friday, and Sunday from 7:30 a.m. to 1:30 p.m.
Métro: Basilique de Saint-Denis (Line 13)

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Tags: La Bigoudène, Marché de Saint-Denis, Saint-Denis food market
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A Visit to the Marché de Saint-Denis – Part IV

Saturday, April 7th, 2012

Philippe and Nadine at the Delicatessen Stand

Philippe and Nadine at the Boiton Rabain Delicatessen Stand
Photo by www.DiscoverParis.net

Our final stop was at the butcher-delicatessen stand called Boiton Rabain. Philippe purchased 5 kilograms of tripe from this vendor, whose family origins trace back to the Auvergne region in central France.

The sign behind Nadine declares that the products are artisanal (that is, not industrially produced). Nadine gave me a few slices of saucisse sèche maison (house-made dried sausage) to sample. It was delicious!

Laurent and Nadine at the Boiton Rabain Charcuterie Stand

Laurent and Nadine at the Boiton Rabain Delicatessen Stand
Photo by www.DiscoverParis.net

It was at this point that Nadine saw my camera. She started cutting up to make us laugh, turning an ordinary shopping excursion into a theatrical experience!

Nadine
Photo by www.DiscoverParis.net

Doesn’t she look like a Hollywood movie star?

Nadine and Philippe
Photo by www.DiscoverParis.net

The height of her playfulness came when she gave Philippe a sweet caress. Oh, lucky man!

Tomorrow: I buy a buckwheat crêpe from La Bigodène crêpe stand.

Marché de Saint-Denis
Place Victor Hugo
93200 Saint-Denis
Open Tuesday, Friday, and Sunday from 7:30 a.m. to 1:30 p.m.
Métro: Basilique de Saint-Denis (Line 13)

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Tags: Boiton Rabain, Marché de Saint-Denis, Saint-Denis food market
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A Visit to the Marché de Saint-Denis – Part III

Friday, April 6th, 2012

During the Middle Ages, an enormous market called La Foire du Lendit was held every year just outside of Saint-Denis. From June 11 to June 24, it attracted buyers and sellers from all over Europe. In 1556, King Henri II moved it within the city walls, where the modern Marché de Saint-Denis continues the market tradition today.

Philippe Rochette Buys Parsley at the Aromatic Herb Stand
Photo by www.DiscoverParis.net

Zohire Sells Aromatic Herbs
Photo by www.DiscoverParis.net

We stopped at the aromatic herb stand where Philippe purchased a bunch of parsley. Aziz, the proprietor (not pictured), offered me a bunch of fresh mint. I took it home and brewed it in hot water. With a little sugar added, it produced a refreshing hot mint tea.

Harry at Tripe Stand
Photo by www.DiscoverParis.net

Although Philippe didn’t buy any provisions at the tripe stand, he introduced me to Harry, who works there.

Michel at Maison Haësig Meat Stand
Photo by www.DiscoverParis.net

He also introduced me to Michel, who works at the Maison Haësig meat stand. Michel is a butcher in the town of Stans, and comes to the Saint-Denis market on Tuesdays.

Madame Vandezande with Daughter Aurélie at the Vegetable Stand
Photo by www.DiscoverParis.net

Philippe purchased some watercress from Madame Vandezande. She and her husband cultivate vegetables in L’Oise, a département in the Picardie region of France. What a great privilege to be able to buy products fresh from the farm at the Saint-Denis market!

Join me tomorrow, when we finish our grocery shopping with a crêpe and a caress!

Marché de Saint-Denis
Place Victor Hugo
93200 Saint-Denis
Open Tuesday, Friday, and Sunday from 7:30 a.m. to 1:30 p.m.
Métro: Basilique de Saint-Denis (Line 13)

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Tags: Maison Haësig, Marché de Saint-Denis, Saint-Denis food market
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A Visit to the Marché de Saint-Denis – Part II

Thursday, April 5th, 2012

During my market visit with Philippe Rochette, I learned that he does not plan in advance the dishes that he serves at his restaurant on any particular day. Instead, he goes around the market to see what the vendors are selling and determines on the spot what he will prepare.

Philippe Rochette at the Stand of Pascal Vavasseur

Philippe Rochette at the Fruit Stand of Pascal Vavasseur
Photo by www.DiscoverParis.net

Madame Vavasseur
Photo by www.DiscoverParis.net

Our first stop was at the fruit stand of Pascal Vavasseur, who sells products straight from his orchard in Val-d’Oise. Philippe purchased a sack of Starkinson apples for only 1€ a kilogram! Jonagold apples were selling for the same price.

Les Volailles des Prés
Photo by www.DiscoverParis.net

At the next stand, Philippe stopped to buy eggs and free-range guinea fowl. The birds came from Chalans in Vendée, an administrative département in west-central France. The producer there won a Bronze Medal in 2011 at the Salon International de l’Agriculture held in Paris.

Buying Beets at Chez Colette
Photo by www.DiscoverParis.net

Philippe selected some nice beets selling for 2.50€/kg at a vegetable stand called Chez Colette. He picked up each one with a two-pronged fork and examined it carefully before putting it in his bag…or rejecting it.

Anne-Laure of La Ferme Sainte-Anne
Photo by www.DiscoverParis.net

Next, we stopped by La Ferme Sainte-Anne where Philippe purchased some Comté, a semi-hard, unpasteurized, cow’s milk cheese from the Franche-Comté region of eastern France.

Join me tomorrow for some more grocery shopping at the Marché de Saint-Denis!

Marché de Saint-Denis
Place Victor Hugo
93200 Saint-Denis
Open Tuesday, Friday, and Sunday from 7:30 a.m. to 1:30 p.m.
Métro: Basilique de Saint-Denis (Line 13)

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Tags: Chez Colette, La Ferme Sainte-Anne, Les Volailles des Prés, Marché de Saint-Denis, Pascal Vavasseur, Saint-Denis food market
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A Visit to the Marché de Saint-Denis – Part I

Wednesday, April 4th, 2012

Yesterday found me getting out of bed at 5:45 a.m. to catch a bus and then a metro out to the neighboring town of Saint-Denis for a 7:30 a.m. rendezvous with Mathilde Christnacht of the Seine-Saint-Denis Department of Tourism. I met her and Philippe Rochette for an early-morning tour of the food market there. The purpose of the tour was to watch Philippe, owner and chef of a local restaurant called Chez Rochette, make purchases for his lunchtime service.

Marché de Saint-Denis in the Early-morning Light
Photo by www.DiscoverParis.net

The Saint-Denis market is located in a handsome 19th century halle that was renovated and brought up to modern standards in 2005. It shelters 80 food stands selling such diverse products as fish, meat, tripe, sausages, fruit, vegetables, and more. Farm-fresh produce comes from the region and beyond. The market is one of the biggest in Ile-de-France!

The first thing that I noticed during the tour was the price of the products. They were certainly much lower than the prices that one finds at the markets in Paris. Only 1€ for a kilogram of Starkinson apples!

And the second thing that I noticed was the camaraderie among the vendors and buyers. There was so much good-natured joking at every stand that within five minutes of arriving I was smiling from ear to ear. This joyous joshing certainly makes grocery shopping in any supermarket akin to attending a funeral!

Philippe Rochette - Tom Reeves - Nicolas Gagnère

Philippe Rochette, Owner of Chez Rochette
Tom Reeves of Paris Insights
Nicolas Gagnère, Maître d'hôtel at Chez Rochette
Photo taken by Mathilde Christnacht

Join me tomorrow when we walk from stand to stand to buy fresh produce!

Marché de Saint-Denis
Place Victor Hugo
93200 Saint-Denis
Open Tuesday, Friday, and Sunday from 7:30 a.m. to 1:30 p.m.
Métro: Basilique de Saint-Denis (Line 13)

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We participate in Wanderfood Wednesdays. Head over there to explore food from around the world!

Tags: Chez Rochette, Marché de Saint-Denis, Saint-Denis food market
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Paris Insights - The Blog

Archive for April, 2012

A Day Trip to Auvers-sur-Oise with PAN – Part II

A Day Trip to Auvers-sur-Oise with PAN – Part I

A Visit to the Marché de Saint-Denis – Part V

A Visit to the Marché de Saint-Denis – Part IV

A Visit to the Marché de Saint-Denis – Part III

A Visit to the Marché de Saint-Denis – Part II

A Visit to the Marché de Saint-Denis – Part I

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