Mélange Parfait Expresso at Terres de Café

January 12th, 2011
Facebook Twitter Linkedin

Terres de Café at 32, rue des Blancs Manteaux
Photo by www.DiscoverParis.net

While we were looking for a bakery from which to buy a galette des Rois last week, we came upon a smart-looking shop selling fresh-roasted coffee beans called Terres de Café. The store sells only café de terroirs—coffees coming from specific regions of specific countries, such as Ethiopia Anfiloo or Guatemala Attila SHB Huehuetenango.

The shop is rather small, but the owners have found room to install a counter from which they serve espresso coffee. When we entered, a few customers were enjoying their cup of java there.

In response to his question about what kind of coffee I was looking for, I told the clerk that I was looking for a coffee that was not too strong…but not too weak. He replied that I was trying to do a grand écart, implying that it would be impossible to bring the opposites together in one brew! Then he took a giant step and stood legs wide apart (a grand écart), showing how awkward this was. I suspect that some customers might have felt put off by this response, but having lived in France for eighteen years, I am used to the French expressing their ideas in ironic, sometimes oddly humoristic ways.

He proposed a house blend called Mélange Parfait Expresso consisting of four cafés de terroirs: India, Sumatra, Brazil, and Ethiopia.

Selection of Coffees
Photo by www.DiscoverParis.net

I purchased a 250-gram bag of whole bean for 6.50€ and took it home to try it out, using my French press to brew the coffee. I found the aroma slightly sweet, and the taste to be full-bodied, smooth, and slightly sweet with no bitter aftertaste. Neither too strong nor too weak, it is a perfect grand écart!

The clerk told me that I should try the bakery Pain de Sucre for the perfect galette des Rois. I blogged about the bakery and its galettes last Wednesday. He also mentioned that Terres de Café has a larger shop next door to the bakery, where there is more room to enjoy an espresso at the counter.

Terres de Café
32, rue des Blancs Manteaux
75004 Paris
Tel: 01.42.72.33. 29

14, rue Rambuteau
75003 Paris
Tel: 01.42.78.49.79

Mélange Parfait Expresso
Photo by www.DiscoverParis.net

* * * * * * *

We participate in Wanderfood Wednesdays. Head over there to explore food from around the world!

Like our blog? Join us on Facebook!

Paris Apaches

January 7th, 2011
Facebook Twitter Linkedin

A little more than one hundred years ago, Paris was seized by a fear of the night. Gangs of young hoodlums were prowling the streets in the darkness, looking for persons to attack and rob, or, in some cases, to kill just for the pleasure of the act.

In this month’s Paris Insights we explore the world of the apaches—gangs of young thugs that seemed to roam the city and attack with impunity.

Access to the newsletter is by paid subscription. Click here to view the newsletter announcement. Click here to enter a subscription.

Bonne lecture!

* * * * * * *

Like our blog? Join us on Facebook!

Galette des Rois

January 5th, 2011
Facebook Twitter Linkedin

The twelfth day of Christmas, Epiphany, is celebrated with Kings’ cake, or galette des Rois, as they are called in France.

Galette des Rois from Pain de Sucre
(c) Discover Paris!

The cakes, made of flaky puff-pastry layers with a dense center of frangipane, are sold in bakeries during the month of January. We wanted to purchase our galette from a specific bakery in the Marais, but when we arrived at the address we found that it was no longer in business. We stopped at a coffee house in the neighborhood to purchase some fresh-roasted coffee beans and were told that one of the finest bakeries in Paris was the nearby Pain de Sucre. So we hastened over there and purchased a small galette (for two to four persons). This 6 ¾” diameter by 1” tall cake weighing 290 grams cost 20€. A pretty penny to pay for such a small cake!

We found the galette to be quite buttery and flaky; its 3/8” almond-paste filling was light and airy, rather than heavy and pasty as one so often finds in these pastries. Each contains a porcelain bean (fève, in French). The person whose slice contains the fève is King or Queen for the day! He or she gets to wear a paper crown, which is provided with the galette.

Pain de Sucre
14 Rue Rambuteau
75003 Paris
Tel: 01.45.74.68. 92

* * * * * * *

We participate in Wanderfood Wednesdays. Head over there to explore food from around the world!

Like our blog? Join us on Facebook!

Lilane – A Fine-dining Neighborhood Restaurant

January 1st, 2011
Facebook Twitter Linkedin

Chef Stéphane Guilçou of Lilane
(c) Discover Paris!

Located near place Monge, on the corner of rues Gracieuse and Pestalozzi, Lilane is a wonderfully atypical neighborhood restaurant. It offers excellent cuisine in sophisticated yet modest surroundings, and provides service with a smile.

In this month’s Le Bon Goût, a feature of our newsletter Paris Insights, we review this restaurant and present its chef, Stéphane Guilçou.

Access to the newsletter is by paid subscription. Click here to read a brief summary of the January edition, and here to enter a subscription.

Bonne lecture!

* * * * * * *

Like our blog? Join us on Facebook!

La Table d’Orphée

December 29th, 2010
Facebook Twitter Linkedin

La Table d’Orphée is a catering service located on rue de Bazeilles, just below rue Mouffetard in the 5th arrondissement. It was opened a few years ago by two young men, Alexis and Orfeo, who have been friends since childhood.

On days when we have forgotten to take the meat out of the freezer, we have trekked down to their boutique to purchase dinner. They always have a good selection of house-made starters, main courses, and desserts to choose from! And the best thing is that the cost of their gourmet take-out dishes is about half of what one would pay for a fine dinner at a mid-priced restaurant.

As well as take out, the boutique also has a sit-down dining service, with a specially-priced menu at lunchtime.

Recently we peered in their front window and saw a delicious selection of pastries. Refusing to resist temptation, we purchased two: L’Opéra de l’Orphée and Le Kub de Noël Coco-Praliné.

Pastries in the Table d'Orphée Shop Window
(c) Discover Paris!

L’Opéra de l’Orphée is a thin, multi-layered (I counted eight) cake including a moist, dark-chocolate layer, a layer of coffee-cream frosting, a biscuit Joconde, and a top frosting of dark chocolate.

Le Kub de Noël Coco-Praliné is a cube-shaped, roasted-coconut-dusted cake filled with crème pralinée and a chocolate-cream center. The top is garnished with a craquant au chocolat, white-chocolate matchsticks, and a white-chocolate disc bearing the Table d’Orphée logo. The sides are studded with almond-vanilla-flavored macarons.

Kub de Noël and Opéra de l'Orphée
(c) Discover Paris!

So sweet, so satisfying!

La Table d’Orphée
5, rue de Bazeilles
75005 Paris
Tel. 01.43.36.48.10

Open seven days a week, from 9:00 a.m. to 9:00 p.m.

* * * * * * *

We participate in Wanderfood Wednesdays. Head over there to explore food from around the world!

La Table d’Orphée

Africolor with Danyèl Waro

December 26th, 2010
Facebook Twitter Linkedin

Danyèl Waro
(c) Discover Paris!

The second part of the Africolor music concert held in Bobigny on December 5 featured Danyèl Waro, a singer from La Réunion.

Accompanied by a number of percussionists, Waro sang maloya—a musical genre descended from the era when slaves worked the plantations of the island. For Waro, this music represents many things, including defiance. In 1946, Reunion Island was incorporated into the French administration as an overseas département. By the early 60s, the music was perceived as a symbol of revolt against the established order and was (unofficially) banned.

Waro was born in 1955 to a family that lived in a hut with no running water or electricity. In 1972, he embraced maloya as well as the militancy associated with it after attending a concert by maloya singer Firmin Viry. When inducted into the French army in 1976, Waro refused to wear the uniform and was sent to jail for two years for insubordination. During that time he wrote songs evoking themes of resistance and solidarity, including his passion for his native land, the hardships of working as a sugar cane cutter, and the anti-apartheid struggle in South Africa.

Today, Waro is recognized as one of the foremost singers of maloya. He refuses to compromise the music, performing it only in Créole with acoustic (as opposed to electronic) instruments, including those he makes himself—the kayamba, the bobre, and the rouleur. Womex, an organization that promotes folk, ethnic, and traditional music, called him “the uncompromising maloya hero from Reunion Island.” On October 31, 2010 he received the Womex Artist Award. On November 24, he received the Prix de l’Académie Charles Cros for his album Aou Amwin.

To the unaccustomed ear, the music sounds strange and exotic. Waro’s voice is powerful, and though I could not understand the words, I could sense the emotional intensity. In one of his songs (I do not know if he performed it that day), Waro urges his compatriots to be proud of what he calls their island’s “bastard” society made up of Africans, Madagascans, Indians, Chinese, and Europeans.

Bastardicité

I’m not white
no, I’m not black
don’t pin me with an ethnicity
I’m cross-breed cafres (black), yab (white), malbar (Indian)
my roots are bastard, fine and pure
sinwa (Chinese), arab (Arab), zorèy (French), komor (Comorian)
my roots are bastard, fine and pure

Go on, find it if you want
Go on, buy it if you want
your white-icity, your French-icity,
me, I got no need to search
I got a reservoir of qualities
that flows and overflows
from all my Bastardicity
all my Reunionicity

Go on, find it if you want
Go on, buy it if you want
your pure Indian-icity, your pure Chinese-icity
your pure European-icity, your pure African-icity
me, I got no need to search
I got a reservoir of qualities
that flows and overflows
from all my Bastardicity
all my Reunionicity

Go on, straighten your hair
Go defrizz it if you care
I got no need to flatten my curl
I like my afro fluffed out full
it makes a great pillow for me and my girl

Play your snob games if you care
Show off your French, your savoir-faire
I got no need to brag that way
I got my Creole growl in me
to sing my maloya, my séga kabaré
to sing my maloya, my narlgon kabaré.

(Song by Danyèl Waro from his album Batarsité on the Piros label, 1994)

An interview (in French) of Waro that appeared in Culture en Movement magazine in February 2000 has been posted to the Web site L’Elixir du Dr. Funkathus.

An extensive article (in English) about him can be found on the Womex Web site.

Wine and Cheese at Le Coup de Grâce

December 22nd, 2010
Facebook Twitter Linkedin

Le Coup de Grâce is a wine shop that opened in September 2009 at 26, rue Berthollet in the 5th arrondissement. We stopped here after attending an open house held for an art exhibit in another part of town.

Arriving at around 9:00 p.m., we asked one of the proprietors, Etienne, if we could order a simple cheese platter and a glass of wine. He directed us to a tall table at which stood two tall chairs, and invited us to take a seat. In response to his question about the kind of wine that we might like to order to accompany our cheese, my partner said, “Viognier,” which is a type of white wine grape that produces a distinctive flavor. After a brief discussion about the qualities that this wine might contribute to the cheese platter, we settled for a glass of Martinelle, a vin de pays produced by Corinna Faravel in the Ventoux region of the Rhone Valley.

Etienne served each of us a glass of this pale-gold wine, and placed a platter of four cheeses on the table. These consisted of Saint Pascal, Cantal jeune, Morbier, and Comté. Saint Pascal is a firm, tangy, raw cow’s milk cheese from the Appenzell region of northeast Switzerland; Cantal is an ivory-colored, semi-hard cheese – when young (as ours was) it still has the sweetness of raw milk; Morbier is a supple cheese with black layer of vegetable product that recalls the days when soot was sprinkled on the fresh curd to keep insects away; and Comté is a firm, pale cheese with a nutty tang – when mature, it has a pleasant gritty texture due to the crystallization of salts.

As for the wine, I found it to be sharp with notes of bitter almond. My partner described it as soft with notes of peach. Despite these contrasting gustatory perceptions, we both enjoyed it and the cheeses that it accompanied!

While we sampled the wine and cheese, lively jazz played over the sound system.

The bill for the cheese platter and three glasses of wine came to 19€.

The walls of the wine shop are currently decorated with photographs by Jean-Claude Valette. Valette’s wife Ivlita Mujiri is the artist who designed the image of the devilish-looking wine taster. The image serves as the logo of the wine shop.

Le Coup de Grâce
26 rue Berthollet
75005 PARIS
Tel. 01.45.35.82.37

Opening hours:
Mondays from 4:00 p.m. to 9:00 p.m.
Tuesdays and Wednesday from 10:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. and from 4:00 p.m. to 9:00 p.m.
Thursday and Friday from 10:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. and from 4:00 p.m. to 11:00 p.m.
All day Saturday from 10:30 a.m. to 11:00 p.m.
Sunday from 10:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m.

Wine and Cheese at Le Coup de Grâce
(c) Discover Paris!

* * * * * * *

We participate in Wanderfood Wednesdays. Head over there to explore food from around the world!

Wine and Cheese at Le Coup de Grâce

Africolor with Groove Lélé, Ernst Reijseger, and Mola Sylla

December 21st, 2010
Facebook Twitter Linkedin

The 22nd edition of the Africolor festival is approaching the end of its season, with its final musical performances scheduled for Christmas Eve. Since 1989, when the first concert opened at the Théâtre Gérard Philipe in the town of Saint-Denis, Africolor has been bringing outstanding musicians to Seine-Saint-Denis (a French administrative département in the Ile-de-France region) to perform African and African-inspired music.

I had the pleasure of attending a concert at the MC93 theater in the nearby town of Bobigny on Sunday, December 5. The concert was a double treat because for the price (16€) of a single entry ticket, two groups from La Réunion would be performing: Groove Lélé with Ernst Reijseger and Mola Sylla; and the Danyèl Waro ensemble. In today’s blog I will present the first group, with my comments about the second reserved for another day.

Zembrocal is a popular dish of La Réunion that consists of turmeric, rice or corn, and red or white beans. The diverse people of this island sometimes compare themselves to this dish, because each element keeps its flavor and yet contributes to the overall taste. The group Groove Lélé that performed with Ernst Reijseger and Mola Sylla on Sunday afternoon exemplifies this idea—their music was a mixed bag of melodies masterfully interweaving European music, jazz, African rhythms, song, and dance. At one point I was wondering if I was listening to jazz, and at another I was wondering if I was listening to African music. I finally gave up trying to attach a label to it and decided to just listen and enjoy! If one were to ask the musicians what they were performing, they might say that it is maloya, a genre of music that is associated with Creole culture in La Réunion.

Willy Philéas of Groove Lélé and Ernst Reijseger
Photograph by Jean-Claude François
Courtesy of La Strada Mundi

The performances by Groove Lélé, a group of about twelve singers, dancers, and percussionists, were dazzling. The group was founded in 1977 by Granmoun Philéas as a family affair. His goal: to sing and perform maloya, one of the two principal genres of music from La Réunion. With his passing in 2004, two brothers Willy and Urbain Philéas took over leadership of the group. In November of this year, it was awarded the Trophée des Arts Afro Caribéens for the best album of 2010.

Joining Groove Lélé on stage were two outstanding musicians, Ernst Reijseger and Mola Sylla.

Ernst Reijseger is a Dutch cellist who specializes in jazz and contemporary classical music. He has stated that he does not play a standard repertoire when onstage. Rather, he improvises all the way through the performance!

Mola Sylla is a percussionist and singer from Dakar, Senegal. Of his music, Sylla has said, “Previously I only played African music, and now I do not know even what I play. Some people hear elements of classical music, others call it World Music – whatever that is supposed to be – or even pop music. I believe it does not matter. If I play, I feel free.” (Volkskrant Magazine, June 1, 2001)

The three elements of the show, Groove Lélé, Ernst Reijseger, and Mola Sylla, combined their talents to serve up a fine dish of zembrocal guaranteed to please the most discriminating palates!

Mola Sylla
Photograph by Jean-Claude François
Courtesy of La Strada Mundi

Groove Lélé Percussionists
(c) Discover Paris!

Groove Lélé Singers, Dancers, and Percussionists
(c) Discover Paris!

Groove Lélé Singer with Percussionists
(c) Discover Paris!

Marrons Glacés – A Sweet Confection for the Holiday Season

December 18th, 2010
Facebook Twitter Linkedin

Marrons Glacés
(c) Discover Paris!

Marrons glacés (candied chestnuts) are part of the Christmas holiday tradition in France. In December, their individual, gold-foil wrappers in the storefront windows of chocolate shops and other confectionary outlets attract the eye and entice those of us with a fondness for sweets. The candy-making process is so tedious and the final product so fragile that only a few companies make marrons glacés in France.

We sampled a number of marrons glacés that we purchased at different chocolate shops in Paris, took them back to our kitchen, and then tasted them, comparing the qualities of each against the others. Read our report entitled “Marrons Glacés – A Sweet Confection for the Holiday Season” in this month’s issue of Paris Insights.

Our monthly newsletter, Paris Insights, is available by paid subscription. To subscribe, click here.

Wandering Educators Reviews Paris Insights – An Anthology

December 16th, 2010
Facebook Twitter Linkedin

Wandering Educators, “a global community of informed, engaged educators who share their travel experiences, explore their fellow wandering educators’ travel experiences, and dialogue about international education and travel,” has just published a review of my book Paris Insights – An Anthology. The editor of the Web site, Jessie Voigts, also asked me some pertinent questions about my reasons for writing the book.

Thank you, Wandering Educators, for the great review!

Paris Insights – An Anthology will make a fine Christmas gift for the traveler who is planning a visit to Paris, or the armchair traveler who simply wants to learn what makes the city such a fascinating place!