Peggy and Jeff Love Paris

June 28th, 2011
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Peggy Tournigand and Jeff Ruiz
Photography by Alain Elorza

Peggy and Jeff are two provincials who love Paris and love to blog about it. I had the opportunity to talk with them recently to learn about their passion for the city.

Peggy hails from Valance, capital of an administrative département in the south of France called the Drôme. Jeff comes from the Auvergne region in the central part of the country. Although each has an American-sounding name, they are both French! Peggy’s father once worked in England and gave his daughter an English name; and “Jeff” is short for the initials “JF” from his formal name, Jean-François.

Peggy and Jeff met 10 years ago on the Internet, through a Web chat site called CaraMail (no longer in existence). Their coming together over the Internet is yet another example of how the Web is changing people’s lives. Since 2008, Peggy has been working as a safety manager for a large energy company, and Jeff has been self-employed as a Web-site business promoter @ PowerOn.fr.

Having moved to Paris about five years ago, Peggy and Jeff decided that the city had an undeserved, negative reputation among French provincials. Unlike many Americans who view the city as a glamorous, beautiful, adventurous place to visit, Peggy and Jeff’s friends in the provinces thought of the city as being grey, cold, rainy, polluted, traffic-choked, and full of rude people. Not a positive image! Because they now call the city home and have firsthand knowledge of its attributes, Peggy and Jeff decided to start a blog to promote its positive aspects and to counteract its negative ones. Hence, their blog ParisParis.in was born.

The blog is updated almost daily and gives a lot of great information about Paris and its environs. For example, one recent article treated the King’s Vegetable Garden in Versailles, and another featured a video of the organizer of the Festival des Passages that will be held this Thursday and Friday in Paris. Although the blog is in French, non-Francophones will be able to find photographs, Google maps, and Web site addresses that should inspire them to do additional research for interesting things to do in Paris.

Peggy writes 95% of the articles that appear on the blog. The remaining 5% are contributed by friends and persons who love the city. Both Peggy and Jeff view the blog as a “life-changing” event that has brought both of them into contact with persons that they would not otherwise have ever met. More specifically, it recently brought together 112 persons at a Parisian restaurant to celebrate the blog’s second anniversary. (I blogged about this event last Friday.)

When I asked them what plans they have for the future, Peggy and Jeff told me that they will soon open one of the rooms in their apartment in the 19th arrondissement to travelers who seek an accommodation at a bread and breakfast establishment. This will give them additional opportunities to meet new people and provide the guests who stay there the chance to meet two transplanted provincials who are passionate about Paris!

Big Francophone Bloggers’ Meet-up Last Wednesday Night

June 24th, 2011
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Peggy and Jeff, two French persons with American-sounding names, are passionate about Paris. They celebrated the second anniversary of their Web site (ParisParis.in) for Francophone bloggers last Wednesday night in grand style. One hundred eleven persons showed up for an evening of wine, great food, conversation, and music.

Peggy and Jeff
Photo by Discover Paris!

Peggy and Jeff thanked everyone for coming to the celebration.

La Bonne Franquette Restaurant
Photo by Discover Paris!

The party was held at La Bonne Franquette.

ParisParis Party Goers
Photo by Discover Paris!

Some really cool people showed up! (That’s me, third from the left.)

Domaine Pascal Brunet Chinon
Rosé de Saignée 2010
Photo by Discover Paris!

Wine flowed freely.

Salade du Sud-Ouest au Foie Gras de Canard
Photo by Discover Paris!

Traditional and regional French food was served.

Miroir Cassis au Coulis de Framboise
Photo by Discover Paris!

There were several different desserts to choose from.

Second Anniversary Cake
Photo by Discover Paris!

And anniversary cake was served.

A good time was had by all!

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Dodos et Dadas – The Toy Art of Brazilian Artist Delfina Renk Reis

June 23rd, 2011
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The art gallery La Galerie des Petits Carreaux is currently exhibiting the toy art of Brazilian artist Delfina Renk Reis.

Toy Art by Delfina Renk Reis
Photo by Discover Paris!

Reis’ colorful, fanciful dolls represent a synthesis of the familiar child’s plaything with artistic whimsy, resulting in creations that are at once pieces of toy-store merchandise and collectable works of art. Indeed, each doll bears a tag with a unique number.

According to an article in the Rio Times, toy art was invented by Japanese designer Keiko Miyata in 1994. The dolls that she creates tend to be more ferocious looking than those by Reis.

The exhibit “Les Dodos et les Dadas de Delfina” will continue until the last day of June.

La Galerie des Petits Carreaux
43, rue des Petits Carreaux
75002 Paris
Metro: Sentier (Line 3)
Open Tuesday to Saturday from noon to 7 p.m.

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Ile aux Cerfs – An Inexpensive Restaurant in Paris

June 22nd, 2011
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On Saturday, I joined a Francophone group on a walking tour to explore Indian and Pakistani culture in Paris.  For lunch, we went to the passage du Prado in the 10th arrondissement, where a number of inexpensive restaurants can be found.

Ile aux Cerfs
Photo by Discover Paris!

Because of limited space in the small restaurants there, our group split into two.  A number of us ate at Ile aux Cerfs, an establishment that specializes in the cuisine of the island of Mauritius.  Mauritian cuisine is a blend of Indian, African, Chinese, and European influences.

Briani Poisson Capitaine
Photo by Discover Paris!

The menu offers a wide variety of dishes, including goat, fish, beef, and chicken.  Most of the dishes are served with rice and a vegetable.  I spotted Briani Poisson Capitaine, a rice-based fish dish, for only 5.50€.

I was served a portion of perch (capitaine), smothered in long-grain rice flavored with saffron and cinnamon and a “salad” of grated carrot.  The rice was quite savory, the fish was somewhat dry, and the grated carrot was fresh.  In spite of the dryness of the fish, I enjoyed this course.

The most expensive dishes on the menu were 8.50€.  One of my dining companions ordered one of these, the Carri Cabri P.D.Terre Riz Salade, a plate of stewed goat smothered in spicy gravy and served with potatoes, rice, and salad.

Cake Made with Manioc Flour
Photo by Discover Paris!

For dessert I ordered a cake made from manioc flour and dusted with grated coconut.  I wasn’t sure of what to expect, and was quite pleased to discover that it was delicious!  I later found a recipe for the cake on the Internet and learned that it contains not only manioc flour, but also coconut milk and eggs.  It has a silken, gelatinous texture, but because it is dusted with grated coconut, it can be picked up with the fingers to be eaten.  The portion of cake cost only 1.20€.

My total bill, including the fish dish, the cake, and a small bottle of sparkling water (beer and wine are not served here), came to 8.80€.  Quite a bargain for such a filling meal!

The small restaurant is a popular place and by the time we finished our meal many of the tables were occupied.

A confined dining area is one of the first things that one must learn to expect when dining in inexpensive restaurants in Paris.  (I sat elbow to elbow with the dining companions to my left and right during the meal.)  However, the restrictive space at Ile aux Cerfs is compensated by friendly service and a good, inexpensive meal.  It represents a great option for travelers on a limited budget.

Ile aux Cerfs
12, rue du Faubourg Saint-Denis
8 – 10, passage du Prado
75010 Paris
Telephone:  01.44.83.98.20

Metro: Strasbourg-Saint-Denis (Lines 4, 8, and 9)

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Big-bash Pot-Luck Tweet-up

June 19th, 2011
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Cook 'n with Class
Photo by Discover Paris!

Yetunde Oshodi and Eric Fraudeau’s big-bash pot-luck tweet-up at Eric’s Cook ’n with Class cooking school is now history, and what a bash it was! Participants brought lots of food, including Forrest Collins (52 Martinis), who made some terrific, savory, mushroom caps stuffed with blue cheese and bits of mushroom. Yetunde Oshodi (Feels Like Home in Paris) baked some great cupcakes. Marlys and Michael Schürmann (Paris Movie Walks) brought big red strawberries and luscious, ripe cherries. And after that, I was too busy moving from one delicious serving dish to another to observe what others brought.

Moody Dining Room
Photo by Discover Paris!

Eric’s school is a spacious place with two rooms, one with a large dining room table, a well-stocked wine display, and a large oven, counter space, and a sink. The other room has a serving table, counter space, an oven, and a sink.

When they organized the space for their school five years ago Eric and Yetunde engaged the services of an interior designer. He left a strong mark on the rooms, and they reflect a rather wild imagination, ranging from a spooky chandelier in the grey, moody dining room to a bright, cheery, kitchen-like ambiance in the other. Was this the work of a bipolar personality?

Joyous Kitchen
From left to right:
Jennifer Geraghty, Eric Fraudeau, and Jenny Sundel
Photo by Discover Paris!

In any event, given the spaciousness of the well-equipped school, I could easily imagine how much fun the students who come here to take cooking lessons must have.

Serving Table
Photo by Discover Paris!

Marlys and Michael Schürmann
Photo by Discover Paris!

Milla Msa
Photo by Discover Paris!

Robyn Blaber
Photo by Discover Paris!

Others in attendance were:

Gail Boisclair and her daughter Yasmin: Perfectly Paris
Alexis Niki: Bitchy Witchy the Film
Nikki Bayley (no Web site given)
Jenny Sundel: Jesus Year Project
Robyn Blaber: A Canadian in Paris
Milla Msa: Not Just Another Milla
Kim Laidlaw Adrey: I Heart Paris
Erica Berman: Haven in Paris
Jennifer Geraghty: Jennyphoria
Tom Reeves: Paris Insights

A good time was had by all!

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A Breton Quartet and a Malian Trio Fuse into One Fantastic Group

June 18th, 2011
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The organizers of the annual Festival d’Ile de France held a pre-launch concert last Wednesday at a theater and dance hall in Paris named Le Divan du Monde.

The purpose of the event was to communicate the festival’s ambitious musical program to an appreciative public. And indeed, for the five week period between September 3 and October 10, thirty-three concerts will be held in twenty-nine historic venues located in the Ile-de-France region. Top musicians from different parts of the globe will perform, including Tomatito (flamenco guitar) from Spain, Carl Craig (techno) from the United States, Kan’Nida (drums) from Guadeloupe, Goran Bregovic (trumpet) from Bosnia-Herzegovina…the list goes on and on!

N'Diale
From left to right:
Yannick Jory, saxophone - Jacky Molard, violin
Foune Diarra, vocals - Kassim Sidibé, kamele n'goni
Alhassane Sissoko, djembé - Hélène Labarrière, bass
Not pictured: Janick Martin, accordeon
Photo by Discover Paris!

For the pre-launch party, two different groups appeared on stage, and it is the second group, N’Diale, that I want to mention today. N’Diale was formed through the collaboration of a Breton group called the Jacky Morland Quartet, and a Malian group called the Foune Diarra Trio. The music that they play is a fusion of the music of two completely different cultures. And, whereas I have always thought of fusion cuisine as being a nondescript mishmash, the fusion music that N’Diale played on Wednesday night was some of the most marvelous that I have ever heard.

The star of the show was Foune Diarra, a lithe and graceful singer and dancer. A video of the two groups on tour together in Benin and Brittany, France can be viewed below. Although the video is in French, non-Francophones who watch it will get a good idea about how effectively these musicians combine their talents to create some fantastic sounds.


N'DIALE Jacky Molard Quartet & Foune Diarra Trio… par innacorrecords

I blogged about three performers that appeared at last year’s festival (Willie Colón, Kahmed, and Baaba Maal), and I look forward to blogging about some of the performers of this year’s festival!

Information (in French) about the festival that was held in 2010 can be found here. I anticipate that the festival organizers will soon be updating the Web site for the 2011 season.

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Tasting Ice-cream (and Sorbet) Sandwiches at Mococha

June 15th, 2011
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Chocolate Ice-cream Sandwich with Almond-flavored Macaron Shell
(c) Discover Paris!

The ice-cream sandwich is one of the joys of childhood. I remember carefully peeling off the wrapper of this frozen treat and biting through its chocolate wafers into sweet vanilla ice cream. Sometimes the ice cream at the edges of the sandwich would squeeze out, whereupon I would nibble at the ice cream exposed there. Sometimes, if the ice cream was soft enough, I could lick some of it out from between the wafers, leaving the thick sandwich with a smooth, deep groove around the edges. However I ate it, the sandwich was a scrumptious delight and fun to eat!

Always looking for new products to propose to her customers, Marie at Mococha (89, rue Mouffetard in the 5th arrondissement) has begun selling ice-cream and sorbet sandwiches as a novel feature this year. The refrigerated display case is located right at the front window, where she can scoop out the ice cream (or sorbet) and make the confection on the spot. She offers twelve different frozen dessert flavors. A scoop of any of them can be combined with six different flavors of macaron shells, permitting a wide variety of sandwiches from which to select.

Marie sells two types of sandwiches: open-faced (a scoop of frozen dessert sitting on a single shell) and standard (a scoop of frozen dessert pressed between two shells).

Two Open-faced Sorbet Sandwiches
On left: apricot with strawberry-violet-flavored macaron shell
On right: rose-lychee with almond-flavored macaron shell
(c) Discover Paris!

I stopped by her shop to try her open-faced sorbet sandwiches. Upon hearing that I would not eat the sandwich immediately, she placed the scoops of sorbet in a plastic cup and the macaron shells in a small bag. I was to take them home quickly (before the sorbet softened) and assemble and eat them there. I purchased the fixings for two open-faced sandwiches: one scoop of apricot sorbet to be combined with a strawberry-violet-flavored shell, and one scoop of rose-lychee sorbet to be combined with an almond-flavored shell.

Upon tasting the open-faced sandwiches, my partner and I enjoyed the flavors, especially the delicate rose-lychee sorbet. We found, however, the macaron shells to be rather difficult to bite into. Macaron is normally a tender, fragile cookie. Marie later explained that the macarons that she uses for her sandwiches are specially made to resist the melting frozen dessert. A regular macaron would quickly disintegrate when in contact with ice cream or sorbet.

The following day I was determined to try the standard ice-cream sandwich. I purchased a scoop of salted-caramel ice cream, to be sandwiched between two pistachio-flavored macaron shells; and a scoop of chocolate ice cream, to be sandwiched between two almond-flavored macaron shells. Taking the ingredients home, we immediately assembled them into sandwiches and tasted them.

Salted-caramel Ice-cream Sandwich with Pistachio-flavored Macaron Shell
(c) Discover Paris!

As before, we enjoyed the flavors of the ice cream and the macaron shells, but we found the shells difficult to bite into. During the process of biting, they squeezed together, forcing the ice cream out at the edges of the sandwich, where it fell into the plate. We were not, of course, testing under ideal conditions. The ideal condition would be to have Marie assemble the sandwiches at the shop and for us to begin eating them immediately as we stepped out onto the sidewalk. In that way, the ice cream would still be quite firm, and, theoretically, would not squeeze out so readily at the edges.

The ice-cream sandwich—a dairy treat that can’t be beat!

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In This Month’s Paris Insights Newsletter: The UN’s Art Treasures

June 12th, 2011
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Tania Fernandez de Toledo
Chief of UNESCO’s Works of Art and Special Projects Unit
Photograph by Alecia McKenzie

To prepare this month’s Paris Insights newsletter, our guest writer Alecia McKenzie met with Tania Fernandez de Toledo, Chief of UNESCO’s Works of Art and Special Projects Unit, to learn about the works that the agency shelters and exhibits at its headquarter in Paris. For art lovers who plan to visit Paris over the next year, a trip to UNESCO might be nearly as exciting as going to the Louvre museum!

Access to the newsletter is by paid subscription. Click here to view the newsletter announcement. Click here to enter a subscription.

Bonne lecture!

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It Could Have Fooled Me

June 10th, 2011
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For all of the years that I have known of the existence of the 1/16 execution model of the Statue of Liberty that stands proudly in the former priory of Saint-Martin-des-Champs in Paris (now the Musée des Arts et Métiers), the idea that it was made of plaster never entered my mind. I always thought that it was bronze.

Execution Model of the Statue of Liberty
Photograph by Discover Paris!

The statue, in fact, is the “execution model” that its originator, Frédéric-Auguste Bartholdi, and his workers used to create enlargements of the different elements of the statue that was assembled on Liberty Island and now stands in New York Harbor. That great statue is made out of molded sheets of copper affixed to a metal framework.

A few years ago the French art dealer, Guillaume Duhamel, approached the administrators of the museum with the idea of making cast-bronze statues from the plaster one. The administrators were initially reluctant to do so because of the fragility of the plaster statue. However the problem was eventually solved by using a process that scans the sculpture without touching it and creates a digital model. An identical reproduction was then made for casting, and the first bronze to be cast was installed in the courtyard of the entryway to the museum.

First Bronze Cast from the Execution Model
Photograph by Discover Paris!

Last night a reception was held at the museum to honor the realization of this great project and to celebrate French-American friendship. Following a speech by Jean-Claude Ziv, professor at the Conservatoire National des Arts et Métiers, about the birth of the idea for the Statue of Liberty, American ambassador Charles H. Rivkin gave a speech evoking the symbolism associated with the statue and the singularity of the United States as a nation of immigrants.

United States Ambassador Rivkin
Photograph by Discover Paris!

Following Rivkin’s speech, attendees were invited to join guides for tours through the museum or to explore it on their own. The reception cocktail took place in the courtyard in front of the newly-installed bronze Statue of Liberty.

A good time was had by all!

For a virtual tour of the Saint-Martin-des-Champs church, click here.

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We have written about the Statue of Liberty on two other occasions in our newsletter Paris Insights. Our first article, published in October 2000, was entitled “Is There a Black Statue of Liberty in Paris?” and addresses the rumor that circulated on the Internet at that time.

The other article was published in July 2006. Entitled “Three Ladies and a Flame,” it discusses the three Statues of Liberty that one could find in Paris at that time.

To gain access to these articles and, at the same time, gain access to our monthly newsletter, enter a subscription at the following link: http://www.discoverparis.net/newsletter-signup.html. After signing up, you will receive an access code.

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Tasting Single-origin Coffee at Cafés Estrella

June 8th, 2011
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Jean-Claude Lesage, Proprietor
Cafés Estrella
(c) Discover Paris!

Cafés Estrella is a coffee-roasting facility located at 34, rue Saint-Sulpice, right across the street from Saint-Sulpice church. I have often passed it by without paying too much attention until, just recently, I noticed that the store received a mention in the book Les Meilleurs Commerces de Bouche de Paris (Impalla Editions, 2011). And so, I decided to drop in and purchase some fresh-roasted coffee.

The proprietor, Jean-Claude Lesage, was busy filling orders when I walked into the store. At the same time, the blade in the cooling tray of his coffee-roasting machine was churning freshly-roasted beans to bring them down to room temperature.

I spotted Rwanda coffee among the coffees that he was selling and purchased a 250-gram bag of the medium-roast, whole-bean product for 6€. After taking it home, grinding it, and brewing it in my French press, I tasted it and imagined that its rich flavor was similar to bitter chocolate. So, on the very next occasion I went by the Michel Cluizel chocolate shop on rue Saint-Honoré and purchased a 30-gram tablet of “Noir Infini 99%” chocolate. Back home again, I brewed another batch of Rwanda coffee and compared its taste to the dark chocolate from Michel Cluizel. To my mind, they have a similar bitter, robust taste. Though neither of these products will please those who require sweetness in their coffee and chocolate, I find their flavors quite agreeable.

As well as a dozen varieties of coffee, Cafés Estrella also sells tea, honey, confections, artisanal spice bread, and cookies. The store is open Tuesday to Saturday from 10:00 a.m. to 1:30 p.m. and from 2:30 p.m. to 7:00 p.m.

Bonne dégustation!

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