Archive for the ‘festivals’ Category

Celebrating Raï with Khaled and his Friends

Sunday, September 26th, 2010
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Maurice El Medioni (left), Khaled (center), Abdelhoued Zaim (right)
(c) Discover Paris!

The organization Festival d’Ile de France has been giving a spectacular series of concerts since September 5. I had the opportunity to hear Baaba Maal on September 11 (see my blog of September 12). Last Friday night, I heard Khaled and his friends at the Cirque d’Hiver. This concert was devoted to raï, a musical form that developed during the 1930s in the coffee houses and cabarets of Oran, in Algeria.

I was not sure whether I would even like this type of music, but, because the event promised a great line-up of raï stars, I figured that I had better get there to see for myself what it was all about.

The Cirque d’Hiver is a circus venue, built in Paris in 1852 and inaugurated by Prince Louis-Napolean . Today, it is still used for circus performances, as well as concerts. I imagine that France must have been a nation of small people at the time that the performance hall was built, because the seats are quite narrow and restrictive. My knees pushed against the back of the seat in front of me, and I had trouble placing my feet flat on the floor. During the show, however, I became so absorbed by the music that I largely forgot my discomfort.

As soon as Maurice El Medioni, the first performer to appear on stage, played his opening notes, a great roar arose from the audience, followed by shrill ululating. That high-pitched, trilling sound was an unmistakable signal that most of the spectators were Algerians or people of Algerian descent. It was also an indication that they knew that some wonderful music was about to be played!

Maurice El Medioni, a pianist born in Oran, is a specialist in Judeo-Arabian music. After he played the first number, he announced that it was a pure Andalusian melody. I found the music enthralling, even dreamy.

Cheba Zahouania
(c) Discover Paris!

Then, just as El Medioni began another tune, the star of the show, Khaled, appeared at the top of a grand stairway to the wild acclamation of the audience. For the rest of the show, he would dominate the stage, singing with three other stars as they appeared in sequence. If Khaled is known to Americans, it would be for his popular song Aïcha, which came out in 1996. He sang this number, but for the most part his songs were in the rolling, rhythmic style of raï that sounds, to my ears, like wailing. This wailing sound is the reason why I thought that I might not enjoy the concert, but here, with it being performed live, I listened with fascination.

The three other performers were Cheb Sahraoui, also born in Oran, who was the first raï artist to tour North America; Boutaïba Sghir, who sings popular styles of raï; and Cheba Zahouania, one of the great female voices of this musical genre.

Toward the end of the show, the orchestra—consisting of musicians playing drums, bass, keyboard, accordion, guitar, derbouka (a percussion instrument), and oud (lute)—performed a number of melodies. One of the tunes sounded just like Latin jazz—all that was lacking was the brass!

By the end of the show, spectators were swaying in their seats, waving their arms, and dancing in the aisles. It was a great musical performance!

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Celebrating the End of Ramadan with Baaba Maal

Sunday, September 12th, 2010
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Baaba Maal and Aliou Diouf, Drummer
(c) Discover Paris!

I first heard Baaba Maal sing many years ago on Afropop Worldwide, a radio program dedicated to promoting popular music from Africa. At the time, I greatly appreciated his music, but over the years other interests drew me away from listening to it. Just recently I learned that he would give a special performance in Paris celebrating Korité, the conclusion of the Islamic holy month of fasting. With my interest in hearing him sing rekindled, I quickly purchased tickets.

The performance was sponsored by Festival Ile-de-France, a cultural organization that brings music from throughout the world to the Ile-de-France region. Intriguingly, the performance would be held on the stage of the Académie Fratellini, an organization that teaches circus performance arts. This would be a great occasion to hear the great singer from Senegal!

Monique and I arrived early to enjoy a buffet-style dinner served by a charitable group called La Femme aux Milles Bras. Monique ordered poulet boucané, alocco (fried plantains), and a dessert of beignets of coconut and ginger. I chose the shredded carrot and corn salad, beef maffé (made with peanut sauce) and alocco, and a milk-based dessert called déguié. The food was simply presented, but quite tasty! During the dinner we noticed that many African men were dressed in colorful boubous. The women wore clothes that were even fancier—they sported colors that would rival those of the bird of paradise flower!

Nattily Dressed Concert Attendees
(c) Discover Paris!

After this informal dinner, we left the hall and entered the circus big top. This is a fabulous structure built out of wood that holds 1,600 spectators. For the musical performance, though, it looked to me as if only half as many tickets were sold, so that there would be nobody sitting behind the performers. I would guess that about three quarters of the audience were wearing the beautiful Wax Hollandais fabrics that we had seen during dinner.

A big cheer went up when Baaba Maal came out on stage. During the course of the concert, he was joined onstage by six other musicians who comprised his band.

What was truly surprising about this concert was not the music, which was a joy to listen to, but the reaction of the audience to Maal’s presence on stage. People came up to dance in front of him, to leave money at his feet (presumably in response to the plea that he made for Africa’s children at the beginning of the concert), to touch his hair, to be photographed next to him, to try to convey messages to him, and to bow before him. During the entire concert, I found that the main attraction was not Maal’s music (the reason that I had come), but rather, this vision of dozens of people who came onstage to try to engage him in some way.

Spectator Dancing on Stage
(c) Discover Paris!

There were times during the concert when Maal and his band were literally mobbed by fans! Several bodyguards, including a particularly burly one who remained on stage at all times, had a devil of a time warding off people who wanted to take a close-up picture of Maal or of a friend who came up from behind to stand next to the singer. The musicians were apparently used to this adulation because they did not flinch, miss a beat, or falter at any time during the performance.

I found this spectacle rather distressing, as the view of so many people coming onstage to get close to Maal distracted from his masterful musical performance. In my mind, there was a real danger that the adulation could quickly degenerate into pandemonium. But Maal and his band remained cool during the whole performance.

Towards the end of the performance, his bodyguard scooped up the money that lay at Maal’s feet and stuffed it into a bag.

We left the concert early to catch an early train home. We were surprised to find that we had to pass through a phalanx of police massed outside the gates to leave the concert grounds. A large crowd of people was waiting peacefully in the street beyond them. I wondered, “Is this a normal gathering of the forces of law and order after a concert?”

As we made our way to the train station, we could sense no trouble brewing. We had an uneventful wait at the station for the train’s arrival, and an equally uneventful ride back to Paris.

Thank you, Baaba Maal, for your wonderful music!

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The Beach in the City
By A. D. McKenzie

Saturday, July 10th, 2010
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Summer Fun at Paris Plages
Photography by Djavan De Clercq

Colorful kayaks and sailboats skimming over the water… Women basking in the sun on wooden deckchairs… Children building elaborate sandcastles… Teenagers whooping as they play beach volleyball…

This may sound like a coastal resort scene, but we’re talking about Paris in the summer, when the beach comes to the city.

Paris Plages (Paris Beaches), as the project is called, will take place for the ninth time this year, from July 20 to Aug. 20. The organizers promise plenty of activities to keep both locals and tourists happy.

Launched in 2002 by the city’s popular mayor, Bertrand Delanoë, Paris Plages began in the historic heart of Paris, running along the river Seine from Pont Neuf to Pont Sully.

Three years ago it was expanded to the 19th arrondissement, a district that is renowned for its multi-ethnic population and vibrant atmosphere. There the area around the Bassin de la Villette was transformed into a beach playground.

Both the Seine—along the Georges Pompidou riverfront highway, which will be closed from July 15 to August 23—and the Bassin will be attracting thousands of visitors in their swimsuits again this year. Other sites will also be hosting various animations.

According to the mayor’s office, free concerts and sporting activities will take place on the square in front of the Hôtel de Ville on rue de Rivoli. Featured performers include Curry and Coco, Camille Bazbaz, and Beat Assailant.

Meanwhile, on the eastern edge of town at Porte de Reuilly near Lac Daumenil, there will be cycling, skating, beach volleyball, and games for children.

Admission to Paris Plages is free to the public. The beaches will be open from 8 a.m. to midnight each day.

People who have participated previously say that one of the nicest things about the project is the way it brings people together. “Everybody has been enjoying the beach with incredible respect for one another’s culture and religion,” a beach-goer named Yolande said last year at the Bassin de la Villette. “There was a grand ball [at the beach] and you could see mothers dancing with their children, and even strangers dancing together. It was wonderful!”

We wish to thank A. D. McKenzie for her contribution to the Paris Insights blog.

Tom Reeves Named Official Blogger for the 4-14 Festival in Dijon: Celebrating Franco-American Friendship, Food, Music, and Fun!

Thursday, June 3rd, 2010
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I am pleased to announce that I have been named the official blogger for the second annual 4-14 Festival, to be held in Dijon on July 9-11, 2010. The festival brings together American and French musicians and chefs to celebrate friendship, food, music…and fun! Last year, 15,000 people turned out for the festivities!

Twenty-five chefs from both sides of the Atlantic will work their culinary magic for the festival. This year, American chefs from New Orleans and other Louisiana towns (and one from Washington, D.C.) will be participating in the event. They include Louisiana native Dooky Chase IV of the legendary Dooky Chase restaurant. The restaurant was devastated by Hurricane Katrina, but has risen from the flood waters to continue its 60+-year tradition of service. Among the French chefs, Michelin-starred Marc Meneau of the inimitable l’Esperance, and Daniel Ginsberg of the Nouvelle Cuisine de la Ville de Dijon will participate alongside nine additional Burgundian masters of cuisine.

I have been writing about food for Discover Paris! since October 2006, when I launched my “Quest for Smoke-Free Dining” review for the Paris Insights monthly newsletter. After smoking was banned in restaurants in France in January 2008, I launched “Le Bon Goût,” a monthly restaurant review for which I interview the chef. The review is found in my Paris Insights newsletter, available by paid subscription. I now publish a free weekly restaurant review for the Paris Insights Web site as well. I share my passion for coffee and chocolate by frequently posting anecdotes to my Paris Insights blog and Facebook page about the fresh-roasted coffee beans and hand-crafted chocolates that I find at the many coffee-roasting facilities and artisanal chocolate shops in the French capital.

Click here to access my blog about the 4-14 Festival. Click here to access my free weekly restaurant review.

The Champs Elysées Goes Green!

Tuesday, May 25th, 2010
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A Forest on the Champs Elysées
(c) Discover Paris!

This past weekend, the upper portion of the Champs Elysées was transformed into veritable ribbon of greenery. Visitors were surrounded by vegetation from forest and farm, and stands on the sidewalk offered a place to adopt a tree – all in honor of 2010 being the year of biodiversity.

Though one was always conscious of being on the “grandest of avenues,” it was still a huge pleasure to enjoy trees and underbrush across from the Drugstore Publicis, and sunflowers and mustard plants across from the Virgin Megastore. From the Arc de Triomphe to the Rond Point, birch, sequoia, and chestnut trees gave way to grapevines, pineapple plants, melon and cabbage patches, and even sugar cane! Attendants were scattered about, ready to provide responses to questions about specific plants and the exposition in general. Signs displaying information about each plant drooped over just as the tips of wheat or other grain stalks would, requiring passersby to reach out and lift them to read them. This was yet another way of interacting with the exhibit.

Children abounded on Sunday afternoon. Everyone was remarkably well behaved, and it was easy to see that the kids were fascinated by the wide variety of plants that were literally within arm’s reach. In one instance, I saw kids standing atop a tree planter, trying to get a bird’s eye view of the avenue.

Cul Noir Sow and Piglets
(c) Discover Paris!

Animals were even brought in to complete the farm motif. A beekeeper had a display of live bees that invited onlookers to identify the queen amidst the swarming insects. Cows and goats peacefully munched their feed, ignoring the crowd. The most delightful sight of the day was a giant “Cul Noir” sow nursing two piglets! Somehow, the mother seemed oblivious to her little ones as they butted their heads against the teats as they hungrily suckled.

According to RTL, over 1.8 million people visited the Champs Elysées on Sunday and Monday – twice as many visitors as the ever-popular Salon de l’Agriculture attracts in a week’s time! There’s no doubt that beautiful weather helped bring out the crowds, but this is still an incredible number of people. The organizers can be proud of an event that was likely successful beyond their expectations, and the visitors can always look back with fondness on the days when the Champs Elysées went green!