Archive for the ‘festivals’ Category

Fun on the Seine with Fête de la Gastronomie

Wednesday, October 5th, 2011
Facebook Twitter Linkedin
Beer Tasting on the Seine

Beer Tasting on the Seine
Photo by www.DiscoverParis.net

France celebrated its first Fête de la Gastronomie on Friday, September 23. In Paris there were many special events to celebrate this day including a “2 for 1” offer in some of Paris’ top restaurants (during the week of September 19-25), cheese tastings, chocolate tastings, and more!

I chose to attend three events, two of which were organized around the theme of coffee. I will report on these at another time. The third was an event that took place on a boat called Six-Huit that was docked at quai Montebello across the river from Notre-Dame Cathedral. Here, from 7:30 p.m. until who knows what time the party broke up, a number of artisanal beer brewers from all over France came to pour their brews for beer enthusiasts. For the price of 21€, one had the right to taste four beers and a platter of either cheese or charcuterie. It was a good price for the privilege of sipping suds while meeting some of the movers and shakers of the micro-brewery industry in France and while standing on a péniche with an incredible view of the cathedral.

I met Laurent Mousson, beer aficionado and vice-president of the European Beer Consumers Union, who told me that artisanal micro-brewers were advised that the French would never accept the naturally bitter beers that they wanted to produce. They pressed ahead anyway, and according to the manifesto posted (in French) on their Web site, the industry is experiencing healthy growth.

Laurent Mousson, Beer Aficionado

Laurent Mousson, Beer Aficionado
Photo by www.DiscoverParis.net

I met Marjorie Jacobi, a brewer from Blainville-sur-l’Eau in the Lorraine region (in eastern France) whose California lager that she calls La Véronique Lucienne was a pleasure to drink. It was dry and slightly sweet at the same time, with notes of bitter orange. When I told her that I was from California, she was especially pleased to learn that I liked her beer.

Marjorie Jacobi, Micro-brewer

Marjorie Jacobi, Micro-brewer
Photo by www.DiscoverParis.net

I met Nathalie, a Parisian who brews her own beers.

Nathalie, Private Beer Brewer in Paris

Nathalie, Private Beer Brewer in Paris
Photo by www.DiscoverParis.net

I met a group of beer lovers from an association called Amis de la Bière – Ile de France. They love to talk about beer and drink it at social occasions that they organize in the Ile de France region.

And I met Cyril Lalloum, who organizes social events around beer that he and his partner Laurent Cicurel call Les Soirées Maltées. It was they who organized that night’s event.

Around 10:00 p.m. I noted the marvelous effect that beer has upon a person who begins his evening on an almost imperceptibly rocking boat. Although I had drunk only four gavroches (a glass with a capacity of 12.5cl), I had the very real sensation that the boat was rocking even more! Fearing that more drinking might cause the boat to capsize, I set my glass down, bade farewell to new friends, and set off into the Paris night.

On the Boat - Péniche Six-Huit

On the Boat
Péniche Six-Huit
Photo by www.DiscoverParis.net

* * * * * * *

We participate in Wanderfood Wednesdays. Head over there to explore food from around the world!

Like our blog? Join us on Facebook!

The Floating Market of Paris

Wednesday, September 28th, 2011
Facebook Twitter Linkedin
View of Marché Flottant and Brass Band from Bridge

View of Marché Flottant and Brass Band from Bridge
Photo by www.DiscoverParis.net

On the weekend of September 16 – 18 an event called Les Marchés Flottants du Sud-Ouest was held at quai Montebello, a quay that lies across the river from Notre-Dame Cathedral. Over fifty food producers from southwest France were there, displaying their products and offering them for tasting and for sale. Three French administrative départements were represented: Gers, Lot-et-Garonne, and Tarn-et-Garonne. It was an excellent occasion for tasting some of France’s regional produce!

I did not get there until early Sunday afternoon, but nonetheless arrived at a good time. Stopping at pont de l’Archevêché, a bridge that overlooks the quay, I watched and listened to the brass band Beni Can Podi playing like there was no tomorrow. This link to their tune Il a fait de la moto will give an idea of their music. I watched them for the longest time!

Beni Can Podi Brass Band

Beni Can Podi Brass Band
Photo by www.DiscoverParis.net

From the bridge I could see that the market was not floating as its name would suggest, but rather was on dry land. In spite of this disappointment, I resolved to find the stairway leading down to the quay so that I could join the festival.

When I arrived, I could see tents set up along the quay where the producers were displaying their products. Although there were lots of people milling about, it was fairly easy to move from one stand to another. I was surprised about this, because these kinds of events can attract a big crowd, making it difficult to progress.

People at the Stands

People at the Stands
Photo by www.DiscoverParis.com

I came upon Glosek Gourmet, which sold desserts from Gascony including babas, canelés, and crêpes all soaked in syrup made from sugared Armagnac. What a great idea! I decided then and there to start my lunch with dessert and purchased a plate of the confections for 2€. A good price for three sweet treats!

Baba Gascon

Baba Gascon
Photo by www.DiscoverParis.net

Next, I came upon cheese producer Tome du Ramier selling (and offering tastings of) two kinds of cheeses: Ramier Roux and Tome du Ramier, both made from raw cow’s milk. Ramier Roux is a soft, slightly sweet cheese and Tome du Ramier is a rustic cheese with a strong flavor. I ordered a tartine (not pictured) made of the latter for 2€. It was a country-style, open-faced sandwich consisting of a slice of cheese atop a thin slice of bread. A hearty snack!

Assiette Dégustation

Assiette Dégustation
Photo by www.DiscoverParis.net

Then I came upon the stand Melon de Lectoure, selling beautiful melons called Les Puits d’Amour. I purchased a plate of diced melon for 2€ and enjoyed the orange-colored flesh that seemed similar to cantaloupe but was sweeter and juicier. Food always tastes better when you are in Paris!

Le Puits d'Amour

Le Puits d'Amour
Photo by www.DiscoverParis.net

Following this wonderful meal, I got in line for a free distribution of fruit from the region. The queue was long, but it moved quickly. I received a bag full of produce containing two bunches of grapes (probably Chasselas), four apples (they looked and tasted like Pink Lady), and two bulbs of garlic.

Distributing Grapes

Distributing Grapes
Photo by www.DiscoverParis.net

People sat all along the quay drinking wine and enjoying the food that they had purchased. It was a perfect day for a picnic!

Picnic on the Quay

Picnic on the Quay
Photo by www.DiscoverParis.net

* * * * * * *

We participate in Wanderfood Wednesdays. Head over there to explore food from around the world!

Like our blog? Join us on Facebook!

The Floating Market of Paris

An Afternoon with Goran Bregovic and His Orchestra

Tuesday, September 27th, 2011
Facebook Twitter Linkedin
Goran Bregovic and Orchestra

Goran Bregovic and Orchestra
Photo by www.DiscoverParis.net

I must admit that before the afternoon of Sunday, September 25 I had never heard the music of guitarist, singer, orchestra leader, and composer Goran Bregovic. This is also an admission that I have not seen the award-winning movies Time of the Gypsies (1988) and Arizona Dream (1993) for which he composed the musical scores.

The concert that I attended on Sunday changed all that.

The event was held at the Cirque d’Hiver Bouglione, a building that looks like a circus tent located in the 11th arrondissement of Paris. Bregovic performed in the arena with his Orchestre des Mariages et des Enterrements (Marriage and Funeral Orchestra), a group consisting of a women’s choir (two Bulgarian singers), a men’s choir (six Slavic singers), a brass section, a string ensemble, and a drummer (who also sang). Altogether there were about twenty performers on stage!

Bulgarian Women's Choir

Bulgarian Women's Choir
Photo by www.DiscoverParis.net

Slavic Men's Choir

Slavic Men's Choir
Photo by www.DiscoverParis.net

They began the concert with a slow piece, somewhat dreary, which belied the kind of explosive music that they were capable of. All of a sudden they stopped and broke into pulse-pounding fanfare of what sounded to me like raucous gypsy music. This brought screams of delight from the audience, whose enthusiasm demonstrated that they were already quite familiar with the music that Bregovic would perform that afternoon. For the rest of the roughly two-and-one-half-hour concert Bregovic and his orchestra played music that provoked emotions ranging from high excitement to sober reflection, oftentimes all in the same piece!

Audience Reaction

Audience Reaction
Photo by www.DiscoverParis.net

To my ear, the sometimes strident and volatile brass pieces resembled mariachi music of Mexico; the temperate and restrained singing of the Bulgarian women’s choir resembled music from Arabia. For the longest time, Bregovic was a guitarist in a popular Yugoslav rock band. The music that his orchestra performed on Sunday reflected not only the influence of hard rock, but also polyphony from Bulgaria and gypsy fanfare. What a fantastic combination!

Goran Bregovic

Goran Bregovic
Photo by www.DiscoverParis.net

The people at Festival d’Ile-de-France deserve commendation for bringing this marvelous group to Paris to perform. Click here to learn about its program.

* * * * * * *

Like our blog? Join us on Facebook!

An Afternoon with Goran Bregovic and His Orchestra

The Terres de Bretagne Music Festival
Part 5
The Music

Friday, September 16th, 2011
Facebook Twitter Linkedin
Alan Stivell

Alan Stivell Quartet
From left to right:
Gaëtan Grandjean, guitar
Alan Stivell, Celtic harp
Photo by www.DiscoverParis.net

In parts 1, 2, and 3 I wrote about the spectacular setting for the Terres de Bretagne music festival, and in part 4 I wrote about the food served there. In today’s post, I discuss the music, which was my principal reason for attending the festival.

Hundreds of people (as well as some eighty performers) braved uncertain weather to hear fifteen groups play traditional Breton folk music as well as jazz, and in the case of the group N’Diale, Breton-Malian fusion.

There were so many groups that I didn’t get to hear them all. The performances took place from 12:45 p.m. to 6:00 p.m. at six different locations on the expansive domain. It took a considerable effort to walk from one spot to another. Also, I spent a lot of time exploring the grounds—especially at the top of the hill where the château d’en haut (château on the hill) is located—so I missed many of the concerts.

The first group that I listened to was Penndù Skoulm, a quintet consisting of two men playing the violin; one playing the flute; one, the guitar; and one, the uillean pipe. I found their music lively, but somewhat monotonous. This did not seem to be the opinion of the other spectators, because many of them got up to dance!

Jacky Molard violon - Pennoù Skoulm

Jacky Molard, violin - Pennoù Skoulm
Photo by www.DiscoverParis.net

Dancing to the Music of Pennou Skoulm

Dancing to the Music of Pennoù Skoulm
Photo by www.DiscoverParis.net

Another group that I watched was Trio Zon, which performed a jazzy kind of Celtic music in front of the château near the top of the hill. I guess that I don’t care much for Breton music because I wandered away after a few minutes to look for something else.

Trio Zon

Trio Zon
From left to right:
Grégoire Hennebelle, violin
Faustine Audebert, vocals
Youen Parathoen, accordion
Photo by www.DiscoverParis.net

Happily, for my taste in music, the group N’Diale performed later in the afternoon. I blogged about them on June 18, after I had seen them at a pre-launch concert sponsored by Festival d’Ile de France. N’Diale was formed through the collaboration of a Breton group called the Jacky Morland Quartet (Jacky Morland appeared with Pennoù Skoulm earlier) and a Malian group called the Foune Diarra Trio. The music that they play is a marvelous fusion of music from Brittany and Mali.

N'Diale

N'Diale
From left to right:
Yannic Jory, saxophone
Jacky Morland, violin,
Foune Diarra, vocals
Photo by www.DiscoverParis.net

Toward the end of the day I saw the Trio Brou-Hamon-Quimbert, whose energetic call-and-response, a capella singing delighted the crowd. Watch them perform in my video below. And finally, I saw the musician who is probably the best-know performer of Breton music, Alan Stivell. I liked his jazzy music, but unfortunately, the concert was cut short by a torrent of rain.

Festival d’Ile-de-France sponsors fantastic concerts! Click here to learn more about its program.

View my video of the festival!

* * * * * * *

Like our blog? Join us on Facebook!

The Terres de Bretagne Music Festival
Part 5
The Music

The Terres de Bretagne Music Festival
Part 4
The Food

Wednesday, September 14th, 2011
Facebook Twitter Linkedin
Making Breton crêpes at the Ty Lichous food Stand

Making Cheese-filled Crêpes at the Ty Lichous Food Stand
Photo be www.DiscoverParis.net

In the last three posts about the Terres de Bretagne Music Festival I talked about the spectacular setting of the domain where the concerts were held. While walking around the expansive grounds, especially up and down the hill, the concert goers worked up hearty appetites. Fortunately, the event organizers had foreseen this and had set up a number of food and beverage stands at different locations.

I mentioned in the first blog that I arrived too late to get to the front of the line at the Ty Lichous stand to buy a Breton crêpe for lunch. Later, I returned and saw that the line was shorter. I decided then and there to purchase a butter-caramel crêpe and was delighted to watch it being prepared right before my eyes.

Making My Butter and Caramel Crêpe at the Ty Lichous Food Stand

Making My Butter and Caramel Crêpe
at the Ty Lichous Food Stand
Photo by www.DiscoverParis.net

While the crêpe was being prepared, I asked the proprietor, Gilles Le Nestour-Mérelle, what the difference was between a Breton crêpe and crêpes that one could find in Paris. He told me that Breton crêpes are thinner and that they are made with blé noir (buckwheat flour). I did see some crêpes being prepared with darker flour, but my crêpe was not. (A blé noir crêpe can be seen on the griddle in the topmost picture.)

My crêpe was served in a folded paper plate. It was up to me to figure out how to eat it without a knife and fork and a table at which to sit! I bit into it and found that it was thinner and more delicate than those that I have purchased in Paris. It was a challenge to eat while standing, because I risked dripping the hot butter-caramel sauce on my clothes and camera. Happily, however, I was able to enjoy the scrumptious treat without transferring the sticky sauce to my personal effects.

There were other food stands at the concert, including one at which a man was making caramelized nuts in a copper kettle over an open fire.

Making Caramelized Nuts over an Open Fire

Making Caramelized Nuts over an Open Fire
Photo by www.DiscoverParis.net

One stand was selling barbe à papa (cotton candy).

Cotton Candy

Cotton Candy
Photo by www.DiscoverParis.net

Later, as I was leaving the festival, I spotted a vendor selling freshly-harvested green apples and pears for only 3.50€ for two kilograms. I couldn’t resist the bargain and purchase two kilos of pears. They were slightly firm, like a crispy apple, but a few days later turned ripe and juicy.

Vendor Selling Apples and Pears in the Parking Lot

Vendor Selling Apples and Pears in the Parking Lot
Photo by www.DiscoverParis.net

To be continued…

* * * * * * *

We participate in Wanderfood Wednesdays. Head over there to explore food from around the world!

Like our blog? Join us on Facebook!

The Terres de Bretagne Music Festival
Part 4
The Food

The Terres de Bretagne Music Festival
Part 3

Tuesday, September 13th, 2011
Facebook Twitter Linkedin
Guard House at the Northernmost Edge of the Domaine

Guard House at the Northernmost Edge of the Domain
Photo by www.DiscoverParis.net

In Part 2 of this article, I described the château at the top of the hill and the thick woods around it.

Standing on the south side of the manor and turning my back to it, I had a beautiful view of the valley below. A stage had been set up mid-way down the slope, where two bands would play later that afternoon.

View of the Valley

View of the Valley
Photo by www.DiscoverParis.net

I walked down the steep hill to explore the lowland. Later that day, I saw some kids taking the fast way down, sliding on the wet, slippery grass. What fun!

Kids Sliding down The Hill

Kids Sliding down The Hill
Photo by www.DiscoverParis.net

The château in the valley is a fortified building sitting on the edge of a body of water.

View of Château du Bas

View of Château du Bas
Photo by www.DiscoverParis.net

And behind the château lies a garden of sculpted, low-lying bushes (probably boxwood) that form an embroidery-like, box-hedge parterre. Surrounded on three sides by water, the garden looks as if it were floating on the pond.

In 2005, the garden was classified as a “jardin remarquable” (remarkable garden) by the Ministry of Culture. The domain itself was classified as a “Monument Historique” (Historic Monument) over sixty years ago.

Château with View of the Floating, Sculpted Garden

Château with View of the "Floating," Sculpted Garden

View of the Château du Bas from across the Pond

View of the Château du Bas from across the Pond
Photo by www.DiscoverParis.net

To be continued…

* * * * * * *

Like our blog? Join us on Facebook!

The Terres de Bretagne Music Festival
Part 3

The Terres de Bretagne Music Festival
Part 2

Sunday, September 11th, 2011
Facebook Twitter Linkedin
Château at the Top of the Hill

The Château at the Top of the Hill
Photo by www.DiscoverParis.net

The Domaine de Villarceaux, where the day-long Terres de Bretagne music festival took place on Sunday, September 4, is a beautiful 175 acre park located in Val-d’Oise. The domain is an hour’s drive from Paris. Two châteaux stand there — one with a view of a labyrinth of neatly-trimmed, low-cut shrubbery next to a man-made pond, and the other, high on a hill with a majestic view of the valley.

In Part 1 of this article, I described how I walked beyond the château at the top of the hill to the gate at the far end of the domain. Turning around at the gate, I had a superb view of the manor.

View of Château from the Gate at the Top of the Hill

View of Château from the Gate at the Top of the Hill
Photo by www.DiscoverParis.net

The cobblestone roadway that leads back to the château is bordered by thick woods on either side. There are warning signs advising strollers not to venture into the woods, probably because the trees have not been attended to for the last forty years. I did, however, stop to photograph an intriguing statue that stands there in a tunnel of overgrowth.

Tunnel through the Woods

Tunnel of Tangled Overgrowth
Photo by www.DiscoverParis.net

Returning to the château, I entered a walkway leading to the basement where the restroom is located. The fleur-de-lys tiles of the floor of the vestibule give an unambiguous sign that aristocrats once occupied this place.

Fleur-de-lys Tile on the Floor of the Vestibule

Fleur-de-lys Tile on the Floor of the Vestibule
Photo by www.DiscoverParis.net

Vestibule of Public Restroom

Vestibule of Public Restroom
Photo by www.DiscoverParis.net

Later, I returned to the château and found it open to concert goers. I entered and took pictures of the sumptuous furnishings. Note the painting of the nude Françoise d’Aubigné, Marquise de Maintenon in the dining room.

Dining Room in the Château

Dining Room
Photo by www.DiscoverParis.net

Bedroom in the Château

Bedroom
Photo by www.DiscoverParis.net

In the entry hall stands a sculpture of an obviously ecstatic Leda embracing a swan.

Leda and the Swan

Leda and the Swan
Photo by www.DiscoverParis.net

Later in the day, people sat on the lawn of the château to watch the concert given there.

Watching Concert from the Château du Haut

Watching Concert from the Château du Haut
Photo by www.DiscoverParis.net

To be continued…

* * * * * * *

Like our blog? Join us on Facebook!

The Terres de Bretagne Music Festival
Part 2

The Terres de Bretagne Music Festival
Part 1

Tuesday, September 6th, 2011
Facebook Twitter Linkedin
Domaine de Villarceaux

The Château at the Top of the Hill
Photo by www.DiscoverParis.net

On Sunday, September 4, the organization called Festival d’Ile-de-France opened its end-of-summer concert series with an outdoor music festival at Domaine de Villarceaux. The domain is located in Val-d’Oise, an administrative départment in the Ile-de-France region.

Hundreds of people (as well as some eighty performers) braved uncertain weather to hear fifteen groups play traditional Breton folk music, as well as jazz, and, in the case of the group N’Diale, Breton-Malian fusion.

For me, the day started with a 45-minute metro ride to Porte de Saint-Cloud to get on a navette (shuttle bus) for the one-hour ride to the festival grounds. At the bus stop, two lovely young women verified my ticket and invited me to get aboard. I got a front-row seat, giving me an unhindered view of the road as the bus wended its way to the concert grounds.

The "Navette"

Shuttle Bus Service to Domaine-de-Villarceaux
Photo by www.DiscoverParis.net

Young Women Checking Tickets

Young Women Checking Tickets
Photo by www.DiscoverParis.net

I was prepared for rain, but the only serious precipitation came during the last act around 5:30 p.m. The deluge stopped the Alan Stivell quartet in mid-performance and sent spectators scurrying for cover. It was too bad, because their fusion rock music was a pleasure to listen to!

Being one of the first off the bus, I hoped that I could quickly get to the Ty Lichous food stand to try one of their Breton specialties, but arriving there I saw that about fifty people were already in line (many concert goers had arrived by car). I settled for a falafel sandwich from La Rose d’Orient stand, whose line was very short. Does the popularity of the Breton food stand over the Lebanese one give any indication of the ethnic makeup of the majority of the concert attendees? I believe it does!

People Gathering In front of the Food Stands

People Gathering in front of the Food Stands
Photo by www.DiscoverParis.net

There would be another indication later, when dozens of people formed circles on a large outdoor dance floor and danced what I believe were traditional Breton dances to the folk music performed there.

I decided to explore the grounds first before watching the concerts. The area is a vast park and wood, and a château sits on top of a hill. I climbed all the way up, and walked beyond the château to a great gate that was locked tight and bristling with spikes.

The Gate at the End of the Road

The Gate at the End of the Road
Photo by www.DiscoverParis.net

Gate Bristling with Spikes

A Gate You Do Not Mess With
Photo by www.DiscoverParis.net

To be continued…

* * * * * * *

Like our blog? Join us on Facebook!

The Terres de Bretagne Music Festival
Part 1

When East Met West

Friday, August 5th, 2011
Facebook Twitter Linkedin

Juldeh Camara (left) and Justin Adams (right)
Photography by York Tillyer
Real World Records Ltd

When East met West, there was an explosion of music that brought people to their feet. That is what happened yesterday in the Luxembourg Garden when British rocker Justin Adams and Gambian griot Juldeh Camara performed at the kiosk with bassist William Fuller and drummer David Smith.

Exhorting the audience to “get up and dance,” Adams belted out acid rock and rhythm and blues on his guitar, while Camara responded with his single-string spike fiddle called a ritti. There was improvised call and response throughout the concert, which was a spectacular production of pulse-pounding sounds and rhythms.

The concert is part of a summer program entitled “Paris Quartier d’Ete,” sponsored by the City of Paris.

Adams and Camara will give three more free concerts: this evening at Bercy Village at 7:00 p.m., tomorrow at Jardin d’Eole at 7:00 p.m., and Sunday at Parc de la Butte du Chapeau-Rouge at 6:00 p.m.

Be prepared to get up and dance!

Juldeh Camara
Photography by www.DiscoverParis.net

Justin Adams
Photography by www.DiscoverParis.net

Enthusiastic Audience Responding
Photography by www.DiscoverParis.net

Father and Son Dancing
Photography by www.DiscoverParis.net

Little Boy Clapping
Photography by www.DiscoverParis.net

* * * * * * *

Like our blog? Join us on Facebook!

Bjørn Berge at the Parc de la Butte du Chapeau-Rouge

Tuesday, July 26th, 2011
Facebook Twitter Linkedin

Bjørn Berge
Photo by www.DiscoverParis.net

Bjørn Berge, Norwegian-born guitarist and singer, performed at the Parc de la Butte du Chapeau-Rouge last Sunday evening.

Playing hard-driving bluegrass, blues, and metal on his amplified 12-string guitar, his thunderous music rolled across the park in giant waves of sound.

His appearance on Sunday was part of a summer program entitled “Paris Quartier d’Ete,” sponsored by the city of Paris.

Bjørn Berge Performs in the Parc de la Butte du Chapeau-Rouge
Photo by www.DiscoverParis.net

* * * * * * *

Like our blog? Join us on Facebook!