Archive for the ‘architecture’ Category

A Beautiful Day for a Protest

Sunday, September 30th, 2012
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Yesterday turned out to be sunny with blue skies. It was a beautiful day for a protest!

I set out in the morning to find S.O.S. Paris, a group that is protesting plans for the construction of a monstrous monolith on the edge of the city. I had read on Leonard Pitt’s Facebook page that the protest would take place at 10:30 a.m. at 15 boulevard Lefebvre in the 15th arrondissement. It was an unlikely address for a demonstration, but I had nothing else to go on.

15 Boulevard Lefebvre - Not!

15 Boulevard Lefebvre – Not!
Screen capture from RATP Web site

The map published on the Web site of the RATP (Paris Transport Authority) added to the confusion by directing me down a misnamed side street. That street had nothing to do with the address that I was seeking. I should have suspected that RATP’s directions were wrong when I saw that roughly one-third of the streets on the map were named “boulevard Lefebvre.” What, I wondered, had the cartographer been smoking when this map was drawn up?

Esplanade du 9 Novembre 1989

Esplanade du 9 Novembre 1989
Photograph by www.DiscoverParis.net

After this false start I returned to the boulevard and continued along until I got to the Esplanade du 9 Novembre 1989 located at Porte de Versailles.

Red Flag
Photograph by www.DiscoverParis.net

There were a lot of groups assembled there that seemed to be preparing for demonstrations. There was a group with a red flag.

Sud Aérien

Blue Flag
Photograph by www.DiscoverParis.net

There was a group with a blue flag.

CGT Flag

Red and Yellow Flag
Photography by www.DiscoverParis.net

The Conféderation Générale du Travail was there with a red and yellow flag.

FASE Flag

Multicolored Flag
Photograph by www.DiscoverParis.net

The Fédération pour une Alternative Sociale et Ecologique was there with a multicolored flag on a white background.

BFM TV News

BFM TV News
Photograph by www.DiscoverParis.net

Television crews were there…but where was S.O.S Paris?

S.O.S. Protest

S.O.S. Paris Protest
Photograph by www.DiscoverParis.net

There they were! Over near the entrance to the Porte de Versailles exposition hall. (Yesterday was the opening day of the Mondial de l’Automobile, which is being held in the hall.)

Kids Protesting

Kids Protesting
Photograph by www.DiscoverParis.net

Kids were there, too!

Jan Wyers and Christine Nedelec at the Spot of the Proposed Building

Jan Wyers and Christine Nedelec
at the Spot of the Proposed Building

Photograph by www.DiscoverParis.net

I met Jan Wyers, Secrétaire Général of S.O.S. Paris, and Christine Nedelec, Sécrétaire Général Adjointe. They were standing on the spot where the monolith will be built (unless concerned citizens can stop it).

Christine Nedelec and Olivier Rigaud

Christine Nedelec and Olivier Rigaud
Photograph by www.DiscoverParis.net

I met Olivier Rigaud, vice-president of Jeunes Parisiens de Paris. I listened in on his conversation about the group’s strategy for blocking the plans for construction of the monolith. It was at that point that I realized that these guys are serious!

Photomontage Tour Triangle by Bernard Gazet

Photomontage Tour Triangle
By Bernard Gazet and S.O.S. Paris

What is your view on this issue? Do you want to see a giant pyramid built on the edge of Paris? Do you care about preserving the city skyline?

Take a look at my video of Mary Campbell Gallager’s call to action and then write a letter, as she suggests, to the mayor of Paris. His address is on the video.

The English-language page for the S.O.S. Paris Web site is sosparis.free.fr/p1_s.htm.

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Mary Campbell Gallagher’s Call to Action to Save the Skyline of Paris

Friday, June 29th, 2012
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On Sunday, May 27, Mary Campbell Gallagher gave a talk in Paris to raise public awareness about high-rise threats to the city skyline.

We met her the following day to record her appeal on camera. In this short video, she describes City Council plans to build towers inside Paris and explains how to oppose them. Will you help?

Click on the image below to view!

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Visit to La Fabrique de la Ville

Friday, June 8th, 2012
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On Saturday May 12, I took the metro to the Paris suburb of Saint-Denis, where I joined a group of about fifteen persons for a walking tour of some of the archeological sites of the town. The tour was led by Nicole Rodrigues, director of the architectural unit of the city. We were fortunate to have such a knowledgeable person lead the group! Nicole pointed out that Saint-Denis is rich in archeological sites that date as far back as Late Antiquity, when Frankish kings ruled this land.

So important is Saint-Denis’ archeological heritage that the city goes to extraordinary lengths to inform and educate its citizens about this precious legacy. The walking tour in which I participated is one of the many ways that the city engages its citizens in this effort.

Fabrique de la Ville

Fabrique de la Ville
Photo by www.DiscoverParis.net

For me, the high point of the visit was a tour of the “Fabrique de la Ville,” a restoration project of what is believed to be (apart from the Basilica of Saint Denis) the oldest building in the city. The building’s roof has been stripped, exposing its rafters so that archeologists can examine them carefully. By extracting small cores of wood from the beams, these scientists have been able to determine that the tree from which the wood was cut was harvested in the year 1482.

After the roof was stripped, the city built a tent to cover the building to protect it from the elements so that archeological exploration could continue. At the same time, the city erected scaffolding to permit members of the archeological team to give guided tours of the project.

Following the Leader

Following the Leader
Photo by www.DiscoverParis.net

Nicole Rodrigues Talks about the History of the Old Building

Nicole Rodrigues Talks about the History of the Old Building
Photo by www.DiscoverParis.net

When we arrived at the project, we were instructed to don safety helmets and to follow Nicole up the stairs of the scaffolding, where she talked about the history of the building. In the photo above, she shows a sketch that illustrates what the building and its adjoining structures once looked like.

Rafters of Old Building

Rafters of Old Building
Photo by www.DiscoverParis.net

We climbed higher, and there we were at roof-top height! We could clearly see for ourselves that the rafters were still sturdy after all these years (530 to be exact). But that wasn’t all. The surprise came when we learned that we could climb to the top of a belvedere for a spectacular view of the Saint-Denis skyline.

So, up we went, five persons at a time.

View of Paris to the South

View of Paris to the South
Photo by www.DiscoverParis.net

In the photograph above, the Sacré-Cœur Basilica can be seen on the horizon.

View of Saint-Denis to the East

View of Saint-Denis to the East
Photo by www.DiscoverParis.net

In the photograph above, the Stade de France can be seen on the horizon.

View of Saint-Denis to the North

View of Saint-Denis to the North
Photo by www.DiscoverParis.net

In the photograph above, the Basilica of Saint Denis can be seen.

It was a spectacular end to an enlightening tour of the city!

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Is This Man the Most Intrepid Blogger in All of Ile-de-France?

Thursday, June 7th, 2012
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Fearless Blogger Prepares to Enter Dangerous Construction Site

Fearless Blogger Prepares to Enter
Construction Site in Saint-Denis
Photo by www.DiscoverParis.net

Who is this stalwart blogger? And what danger could he possibly be facing that requires him to wear this silly-looking safety helmet? Come back tomorrow to find out!

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From Ilot Insalubre N° 1 to the National Center of Art and Culture

Thursday, January 19th, 2012
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Georges Pompidou Center

Georges Pompidou Center
Photo by www.DiscoverParis.net

The National Center of Art and Culture (Georges Pompidou Center) first opened its doors to the public in 1997. Today, it attracts some six million visitors a year. But what stood in its place before the center was built? In this month’s Paris, Past and Present, read about the plateau Beaubourg, a neighborhood that came to be known known as Ilot Insalubre N° 1. In the 1930s it was razed to the ground, displacing thousands of people who lived there.

Paris, Past and Present is a supplemental feature of Paris Insights, our monthly newsletter about the history and culture of Paris, as well as contemporary life in this endlessly fascinating city. Click here to read the newsletter abstract.

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Bonne Lecture!

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The Terres de Bretagne Music Festival
Part 3

Tuesday, September 13th, 2011
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Guard House at the Northernmost Edge of the Domaine

Guard House at the Northernmost Edge of the Domain
Photo by www.DiscoverParis.net

In Part 2 of this article, I described the château at the top of the hill and the thick woods around it.

Standing on the south side of the manor and turning my back to it, I had a beautiful view of the valley below. A stage had been set up mid-way down the slope, where two bands would play later that afternoon.

View of the Valley

View of the Valley
Photo by www.DiscoverParis.net

I walked down the steep hill to explore the lowland. Later that day, I saw some kids taking the fast way down, sliding on the wet, slippery grass. What fun!

Kids Sliding down The Hill

Kids Sliding down The Hill
Photo by www.DiscoverParis.net

The château in the valley is a fortified building sitting on the edge of a body of water.

View of Château du Bas

View of Château du Bas
Photo by www.DiscoverParis.net

And behind the château lies a garden of sculpted, low-lying bushes (probably boxwood) that form an embroidery-like, box-hedge parterre. Surrounded on three sides by water, the garden looks as if it were floating on the pond.

In 2005, the garden was classified as a “jardin remarquable” (remarkable garden) by the Ministry of Culture. The domain itself was classified as a “Monument Historique” (Historic Monument) over sixty years ago.

Château with View of the Floating, Sculpted Garden

Château with View of the "Floating," Sculpted Garden

View of the Château du Bas from across the Pond

View of the Château du Bas from across the Pond
Photo by www.DiscoverParis.net

To be continued…

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The Terres de Bretagne Music Festival
Part 3

A Masterpiece of Modern Architecture

Friday, October 1st, 2010
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Villa Savoye
(c) Discover Paris!

In this month’s Paris Insights newsletter we take a look at the Villa Savoye, a country house built by Le Corbusier, perhaps the most influential architect of the 20th century. Read why many architectural writers consider Villa Savoye to be the most significant building in the history of modern architecture.

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Bonne lecture!

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The Hanging Gardens of Ivry-sur-Seine

Sunday, August 22nd, 2010
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Downtown Ivry-sur-Seine
(c) Discover Paris!

In May 2010, I went on a guided walk with the Conseil d’architecture, d’urbanisme et de l’environnement du Val-de-Marne (CAUE 94), an organization whose objective is to promote the quality of architecture, urbanism, and the environment. This particular walk was called “Vues plongeantes sur la Vallée de la Seine” (Plunging views of the Seine Valley), and was the opportunity to go to the top of a number of tall buildings for some panoramas of the area that lies just outside of Paris.

One of the buildings that we entered was the Lenin Tower in the town of Ivry-sur-Seine, where we took the elevator up to the roof garden. The garden is normally off limits to individuals, but we had special permission to enter as a group. From the top, we had a spectacular view of the city, including an amazing sight: the hanging gardens of the apartment blocks and commercial complex of downtown Ivry. During the 1960s, this area was a run-down neighborhood. The city engaged two architects, Renée Gailhouster and Jean Renaudie, to renovate the area, and the project that they devised took about twenty-five years to complete!

The apartment complexes are in the shapes of stars whose points jut into space. On the Internet, I found one writer who declares that these buildings colonize the territory like a rhizome; another says that the architects conceived of the town plan as a combinatorial arrangement. (Cobinatorics is a branch of mathematics that studies the enumeration, combination, and permutation of sets of elements.)

In 1978, the French Ministry of Culture awarded Jean Renaudie the Grand Prize of Architecture for his life work.

Additional information about this architectural project can be found on the blog entitled Brian Goes to Town.

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Visit to a Phantom Palace – Part 3

Sunday, July 25th, 2010
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Tea Pavilion in Chinagora Garden
(c) Discover Paris!

In its hour of glory, the garden must have been a fabulous place where one could take tea in a pavilion that overlooks the sublime landscape. Yet it became evident why the garden was supposed to be off limits when one of the wooden guardrails of a footbridge yielded to the slightest pressure.

I later found information on the Internet that part of the Chinagora project is being used as a warehouse. This would seem to be confirmed by the presence of a guard whom I spotted, standing in front of an office marked “Sécurité” on a side street. I also read that flight crews from China Airlines stay in the hotel. Anything to bring in some revenue!

It is pretty clear why the Chinagora project failed. Although lying only five miles from the heart of Paris, it is not serviced by convenient transportation. The closest metro stop is about 15 minutes away by foot. Two buses stop nearby, but Bus 125 only goes to the edge of Paris; and Bus 325 only goes as far as the National Library. In effect, anyone who wants to travel between Chinagora and Paris has to make an extraordinary effort.

It is regrettable that this monumental tribute to Chinese architecture and culture failed. May the magnificent phantom palace continue to sleep peacefully for a thousand years!

This is the last post in the series entitled “Visit to a Phantom Palace.”

Visit to a Phantom Palace – Part 2

Wednesday, July 21st, 2010
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Chinagora Viewed from Place du Confluent France-Chine
(c) Discover Paris!

Today, Chinagora stands on the banks of the Seine and Marne rivers like a magnificent phantom Manchurian palace. We entered the grounds, where I noted that there was a tourist bus parked in the parking lot of the hotel. As we made our way into the hotel lobby I noted that a number of hallways were blocked off with the same type of metal grills that are used for crowd control in Paris. Decidedly, this was a building that one was not permitted to explore!

The lobby was a peaceful place, with a number of the hotel staff going about their business. I was surprised to see a few tourists sitting in the lobby. Why did they come here? I wondered. And what is the point of staying in this isolated place? The hotel staff paid no attention to us, a group of about twenty persons, as we purchased soft drinks from a vending machine and wandered about. Patrick Urbain must have asked the concierge if we could explore the garden that sits in the center of the hotel, because someone opened a sliding glass door and we were allowed to step outside.

Chinagora Garden
(c) Discover Paris!

The garden showed signs of dilapidation, but was still a beautiful place. A couple of footbridges crossed over empty ponds, and vegetation grew abundantly. I overheard someone comment about an unusual plant that he spotted. He said that it was only found in China, and he took a picture to document his discovery.

To be continued…