Archive for October, 2013

Kouglof by Gerard Mulot

Wednesday, October 30th, 2013
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Kouglof by Gerard Mulot

Kouglof by Gerard Mulot
Photograph by www.DiscoverParis.net

Pastry-maker Gerard Mulot was born and raised in the Lorraine, a region in eastern France. He first tasted a buttery-rich kouglof, a specialty of that region and of Eastern Europe, when he was ten years old. Years later, when he became a baker, he vowed to create kouglofs with the same rich taste that he experienced at that moment in his childhood.

We purchased the brioche-like cake from his bakery on rue de Seine and took it home to taste. It had a golden-brown, soft crust and a yellow, bread-like interior. We found the cake to be buttery, but slightly dry (as brioches tend to be). The dryness was compensated by moist, delicately-sweetened raisins incorporated in the crumb. We ate the kouglof for dessert, but it would make a great pastry to serve with 4 o’clock tea.

Gerard Mulot
76, rue de Seine
75006 Paris
Telephone: 01.43.26.85.77

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The Search for the Eastern Passage

Saturday, October 26th, 2013
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Seeking the Eastern Passage

The Search for the Eastern Passage
Photograph by www.DiscoverParis.net

Just as brave 15th century explorers searched for the Northwest Passage to China, our intrepid blogger Tom Reeves can be seen here searching for the eastern passage to the Croulebarbe Tower in Paris.

In the late 1950s, architect Edouard Albert erected this apartment building near Place d’Italie. His design for the tower, quickly dubbed “the first skyscraper in Paris,” included a wide esplanade leading to its eastern entrance. Sadly, the esplanade was never built, and in this photograph we see Tom peeking forlornly over the sturdy iron fence that blocks the eastern approach.

Download this month’s Paris Insights to learn why the eastern passage to this remarkable structure was never built.

Paris Insights is published monthly as a downloadable PDF file. It is available only to paid subscribers for an annual subscription fee of $30.

If you are not a paid subscriber and would like to download the newsletter, please click here. Enter promotional code 11473309154 to receive a $5 discount off the price of an annual subscription.

Bonne lecture!

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An Evening of Chocolate Tasting with Les Amants du Chocolat de la Couronne Parisienne

Wednesday, October 23rd, 2013
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One of the advantages of blogging about chocolate tastings is that one meets people who invite you to…more chocolate tastings!

It was at the hot chocolate demonstration at Mococha where I met Sabine Malet, secretary of the chocolate appreciation club Les Amants du Chocolat de la Couronne Parisienne. Sabine told me about her club’s tasting that would feature the chocolate of Laurence Dali, who operates O Mille et une Fèves in the 20th arrondissement of Paris. Naturally, I wanted to be part of that.

La Petite Fabrique

La Petite Fabrique
Photograph by www.DiscoverParis.net

The tasting was held at an organic restaurant called La Petite Fabrique at 15, rue des Vignoles, not too far from Laurence’s shop. About fifteen people were in attendance and all were in a jovial mood. Laurence set the tone by distributing bars of Santo Domingo 70% Criollo chocolate, one of the finest chocolates available. She supplied enough to taste to our hearts’ content while she talked about how she quit her desk job at the age of 40 to plunge into the world of chocolate making. After taking a two-year program at the prestigious Grégoire Ferrandi cooking school in Paris, she opened her own boutique. And the rest is history!

Laurence makes fruit, spice, and nut-coated chocolate bars, molded chocolates, chocolate-dipped candied fruit, chocolate-dipped dried fruit, and pralines. She doesn’t, however, make cream-filled chocolates (ganaches). She uses 64% cocoa as the base of her chocolate bars (except the Criollo). During the tasting, she distributed many different samples of all of these varieties — one at a time.

Chocolate-dipped Candied Ginger

Chocolate-dipped Candied Ginger
Photograph by www.DiscoverParis.net

I enjoyed the chocolate-dipped candied ginger. It yielded softly to the bite.

Espelette-dusted Chocolate

Espelette-dusted Chocolate
Photograph by www.DiscoverParis.net

The Espelette-dusted chocolate bar had a spicy sting, while the crumbled Speculoos top of another bar provided crunchy, caramelized counterpoint to the chocolate. The chocolate-dipped candied orange peel came through with full orange flavor, while the covering of the chocolate-dipped dried fig overwhelmed the flavor of the fig.

There was much more to taste. It was a chocolate lover’s dream!

Virginie

Virginie
Photograph by www.DiscoverParis.net

At the end of the tasting it was time for dinner. The waitress, Virginie, took our orders and we tucked into a delicious vegetarian meal.

Around the Table

Around the Table
Photograph by www.DiscoverParis.net

A good time was had by all!

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The Scramble for Africa – The 1885 Berlin Conference

Tuesday, October 22nd, 2013
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1895 Berlin Conference

From left to right: Joël Calmettes – Filmmaker, Mathilde Leduc-Grimaldi – Curator, Brice Ahounou – Anthropologist and Journalist
Photograph by www.DiscoverParis.net

The Dapper Museum held a screening last Saturday afternoon of the film Berlin 1885, la ruée sur l’Afrique (Berlin 1885 – The Scramble for Africa). Following the 90-minute projection, a lively discussion ensued between Joël Calmettes (the filmmaker), Mathilde Leduc-Grimaldi (curator of the Belgium Royal Museum for Central Africa), Brice Ahounou (anthropologist and journalist), and members of the audience.

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Why is There a Two-story Gap in the Croulebarbe Tower?

Saturday, October 19th, 2013
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Croulebarbe Tower

Croulebarbe Tower
Photograph by www.DiscoverParis.net

In the late 1950s, architect Edouard Albert erected a tall apartment building near Place d’Italie. The tower was quickly dubbed “the first skyscraper in Paris.”

In this photo, we see the two-story gap that Albert left in the seventh and eighth floors of the building. Read about this remarkable structure in this month’s Paris Insights and learn why he designed it this way.

To view a preview of the newsletter, click here.

Paris Insights is published monthly as a downloadable PDF file. It is available only to paid subscribers for an annual subscription fee of $30.

If you are not a paid subscriber and would like to download the newsletter, please click here. Enter promotional code 11473309154 to receive a $5 discount off the price of an annual subscription.

Bonne lecture!

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An Evening of Beer and Food Pairing with Elisabeth Pierre

Wednesday, October 16th, 2013
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Elisabeth Pierre

Elisabeth Pierre, Bièreologue
Photograph by www.DiscoverParis.net

I’ve had the occasion to blog about Elisabeth Pierre, bièreologue, before. Apart from her work as a consultant in the beer industry, she organizes tastings of artisanal beer around different gastronomic themes. On a recent Thursday evening I got a chance to attend her first-ever beer and food-pairing dinner. Called “Diner – Bières et Mets,” it took place at Tempero, a restaurant that I recently reviewed for the Discover Paris! newsletter Paris Insights.

Alessandra Montagne

Chef Alessandra Montagne (left) in the Kitchen
Photograph by www.DiscoverParis.net

While Alessandra Montagne and her husband Olivier (not pictured) were in the kitchen preparing a great four-course meal, Elisabeth was in the dining room explaining that we would get to taste five beers that evening, each one specially selected to accompany the dishes that we would enjoy. Why five beers when there were only four courses? Because the main course was a pork dish that was prepared three different ways. Two different beers would be served with it.

Here is how the dishes and the beers were presented:

Starter – Velouté de moules (velouté of mussles) paired with Le Tournemine Real Ale du Berry.
Main course – Porc en 3 façons (pork prepared three ways) paired with La Yote Ale Blonde du Berrye and Combe aux Loups, a brown lager.
Cheese plate – Chèvre et Bleu (goat and blue cheeses) paired with L’Inquiète Stout du Berry
Dessert Royal au chocolat, glace au malte (rich chocolate dessert with a scoop of malt-flavored ice cream) paired with Griottines Cervoise.

Royal au chocolat, glace au malte

Royal au chocolat, glace au malte
Photograph by www.DiscoverParis.net

I enjoyed all the dishes and all the beers and thought that the pairings had been well conceived. But if I had to choose a favorite pairing it would be the Royal au chocolat, glace au malte paired with the Griottines Cervoise, a wheat beer flavored with Morello cherry. The chocolate was smooth and rich, the ice cream had a surprising malt flavor, and the beer had a wonderful not-too-sweet cherry taste.

Jean-Simon Landry

Jean-Simon Landry
Photograph by www.DiscoverParis.net

Two other beer industry professionals were present at the dinner. Jean-Simon Landry represents a microbrewery in Quebec called Le Naufrageur. He passed through Paris after having attended the Festival Mondiale de Bière Europe, held in Mulhouse, France in mid-September.

Johann Villedieu

Johann Villedieu
Photograph by www.DiscoverParis.net

Johann Villedieu of Plaisirs et Qualité announced that his company will soon begin distributing artisanal beer to Parisian restaurants. This was indeed good news, because I have often tried to order craft beers in restaurants only to be told that they were not served there.

A good time was had by all!

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Visit Elisabeth Pierre’s Web site La Fille de l’Orge for information (in French) about her upcoming activities centered around the appreciation of beer.

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We participate in Wanderfood Wednesdays. Head over there to explore food from around the world!

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Romuald Hazoumé at the Musée Dapper

Tuesday, October 15th, 2013
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Romuald Hazoumé

Romuald Hazoumé
Photograph by www.DiscoverParis.net

Artist Romuald Hazoumé, who hails from Porto-Novo, Benin, appeared Saturday at the Musée Dapper to talk about his work. A selection of his masks, which he fashioned from discarded jerrycans, will be on exhibit at the museum until July 6, 2014.

Click on the following link to view his extensive collection of masks:
http://www.caacart.com/pigozzi-artist.php?bio=fr&m=35.

Click on the following link to read the museum’s announcement of the exhibit: http://www.dapper.fr/en/exhibitions-current.php

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Making Hot Chocolate with Rémi Henry at Mococha

Wednesday, October 9th, 2013
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Marie-Hélène Gantois and Rémi Henry

Marie-Hélène Gantois and Rémi Henry
Photograph by www.DiscoverParis.net

On Thursday evening, September 26, I attended a chocolate-making demonstration at Mococha, Marie-Hélène Gantois’ shop on rue Mouffetard. She had invited chocolate-maker Rémi Henry to show how to grind fresh-roasted cocoa beans and then prepare a delicious hot chocolate from them.

Husking the Roasted Cocoa Bean

Husking the Roasted Cocoa Bean
Photograph by www.DiscoverParis.net

All it takes is patience. First you roast some raw cocoa beans in a frying pan (this was not demonstrated, due to safety concerns and time constraints). Then, when they are cool you husk them.

Grinding the Cocoa Beans

Grinding the Cocoa Beans
Photograph by www.DiscoverParis.net

Rémi took the husked beans, placed them on a stone slab, and proceeded to crush them. He added sugar to sweeten.

Cocoa Paste

Cocoa Paste
Photograph by www.DiscoverParis.net

The crushed beans eventually formed a paste, which Rémi distributed to taste.

Tasting the Chocolate

Tasting the Chocolate
Photograph by www.DiscoverParis.net

Freshly-ground cocoa beans that have been roasted at low temperatures have a wonderful earthy flavor. It is a rare occasion indeed to get the opportunity to experience this!

Grinding the Cocoa Beans with a Hand-cranked Grinder

Grinding the Cocoa Beans with a Hand-cranked Grinder
Photograph by www.DiscoverParis.net

One of the attendees tried his hand at grinding cocoa beans with a hand-cranked grinder. It requires a lot of strength! He received a little help from his dad.

A Cup of Hot Chocolate

A Cup of Hot Chocolate
Photograph by www.DiscoverParis.net

I couldn’t stay for the rest of the demonstration, but returned a couple of days later to sample the hot chocolate. Made with fresh-ground cocoa beans, sugar, cinnamon, and pepper, it tastes best when it is reheated several times and allowed to sit for two days. Made without milk or cream, it is a delicious restorative beverage!

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We participate in Wanderfood Wednesdays. Head over there to explore food from around the world!

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The Eternal Quest for Beautiful Fesses – Our Fesses of the Month

Tuesday, October 8th, 2013
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Tom Photographing the Landowski Fountain at Place de la Porte de Saint-Cloud

Tom Photographing the Landowski Fountain at Place de la Porte de Saint-Cloud
Photograph by www.DiscoverParis.net

To photograph this month’s featured fanny, we traveled out to Place de la Porte de Saint-Cloud in the farthest reaches of the 16th arrondissement. Two monumental fountains stand there, both the work of Paul Landowski. An artist of prodigious output, his sculptures can be found throughout Paris.

The fountains, entitled Les Sources de la Seine, stand 10 meters tall. They once gushed water from the top, creating a marvelous effect.

The position of one of the female figures, with her back demurely turned to us, gives us the opportunity to admire her dainty fesses. Follow the link below for a close-up view!

pinterest.com/pin/411586853416461175/

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Where Art and Architecture Meet

Saturday, October 5th, 2013
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Terrace of Tour Croulebarbe

Terrace of Tour Croulebarbe
Photograph by www.DiscoverParis.net

Located near Place d’Italie, the Croulebarbe Tower was once the third tallest structure in Paris. In this month’s Paris Insights newsletter, read about Jacques Lagrange, the artist who created the monumental painting on the ceiling of the tower’s two-story terrace.

Click on the link for a preview of the newsletter:
http://discoverparis.net/newsletter/the-first-skyscraper-in-paris

Paris Insights is published monthly as a downloadable PDF file. It is available only to paid subscribers for an annual subscription fee of $30.

If you are not a paid subscriber and would like to download the newsletter, please click here. Enter promotional code 11473309154 to receive a $5 discount off the price of an annual subscription.

Bonne lecture!