Pistols, Brass Knuckles, and Daggers

January 22nd, 2011
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Poing Américain with Gun and Dagger
(c) Discover Paris!

While researching the apaches of Paris for our Paris Insights feature article, we visited the Police Museum where we photographed one of the weapons that the they used to commit their crimes. The museum has a display case showing a number of their weapons, including brass knuckles (called poings américains) and a combination brass knuckle, dagger, and single-shot pistol (pictured).

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Tasting Single-estate Chocolates

January 19th, 2011
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The family-owned company Michel Cluizel is one of the few chocolate makers in France that transforms raw cocoa beans into chocolate confections. They have direct collaboration with cocoa planters around the globe, which accounts for the fact that they can offer a small box containing squares of chocolate from plantations located in different parts of the world. The collection of chocolates is called “Les 1er Crus de Plantation,” which they translate as “Single Estate” chocolates on their U.S. Web site.

Box of Single-estate Chocolates
(c) Discover Paris!

I purchased a box containing sixteen dark-chocolate squares from five different plantations at the Michel Cluizel shop at 201, rue Saint-Honoré: Los Anconès in Santo Domingo, Concepcion in Venezuela, Vila Gracinda in Sâo Tomé, Mangaro in Madagascar, and Maralumi in Papau – New Guinea. Returning to our apartment, my partner and I proceeded to taste them, one by one. The chocolates contain 64% – 67% cocoa, making them slightly bitter. Each chocolate had distinctive flavors, and we appreciated all of them.

I found the Santo Domingo chocolate to be the mildest of the batch. My partner noted a burnt flavor that predominated at first, followed by a slightly fruity flavor. The Michel Cluizel brochure that came with the box affirms notes of licorice, red fruits, green olives, dried currants, and apricots.

My partner declared that the Venezuela chocolate had an initial flavor of earth followed by a nutty flavor. I found its texture to be silky smooth. Michel Cluizel proclaims hints of vanilla, gingerbread, caramel, and dried and black fruits.

I thought that the Sâo Tomé had an earthy flavor. My partner also identified earthy notes, followed by red fruits. Michel Cluizel claims toasted, spicy, herbaceous notes with flavors of ripe tropical fruits and licorice sticks.

For my taste, the Madagascar had notes of pomegranate. My partner tasted caramel, honey, raisins, and banana. Michel Cluizel declares exotic fruit with aromas of gingerbread and citrus fruit.

My partner detected raisins and green apple in the chocolate from Papua New Guinea, while I could not identify a dominant taste or aroma. Michel Cluizel asserts green banana and red currants.

Single-estate chocolates, like fine wines, are to be savored and enjoyed. If you are fortunate enough to have access to some, buy several varieties and conduct your own tasting!

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Special announcement!

We organized a taste test on chocolate-covered cherries this month, the results of which we will publish in our Paris Insights newsletter on February 1st.

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Tasting Single-estate Chocolates

Entrée to Black Paris Tours™ – Special Offer!

January 14th, 2011
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Are you traveling to Paris in 2011?  Take advantage of Discover Paris’ Entrée to Black Paris™ SPECIAL OFFER for a discounted tour!  Read more below…

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Discover Paris’ Entrée to Black Paris™ (ETBP) tours and activities reveal the story of Paris through the black experience. We are developing them to help increase awareness of Paris’ rich black heritage among all people – particularly those who already know and love Paris, and are seeking new avenues of exploration to enrich their cultural appreciation of the city. We have received many positive reviews for our tours (given by our guides Monique and Tom) , and invite you to read about them here:

About.com

An Alien Parisienne

30 Days in Paris

Monique Giving Her "Black Paris after WWII" Walk

Tom Giving His "Black History in and around the Luxembourg Garden" Walk

As an introduction to our Entrée to Black Paris™ tours and activities, we are offering:

• a 10% discount on the tour or activity of your choice
• a free downloadable DP! walk (a $25-$30 value)
• a special online viewing of a video entitled “Images of Contemporary Black Paris”

to those who engage us to provide a self-guided ETBP itinerary or private ETBP walking tour, museum tour, or presentation in 2011.

"Black Paris after WWII" with the American Club of Paris

Celebrating Josephine Baker on "The Black Pearl Walk"

To take advantage of this special offer, send us an e-mail prior to January 31, 2011 at

info[at]discoverparis[dot]net

indicating that you would like to reserve this “ETBP Special Offer” for your trip. Then, contact us six weeks prior to your trip so that we may prepare and ship your self-guided itinerary or assure the availability of a private guide for your desired tour.

We look forward to hearing from you very soon!

Entrée to Black Paris Tours™ – Special Offer!

Mélange Parfait Expresso at Terres de Café

January 12th, 2011
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Terres de Café at 32, rue des Blancs Manteaux
Photo by www.DiscoverParis.net

While we were looking for a bakery from which to buy a galette des Rois last week, we came upon a smart-looking shop selling fresh-roasted coffee beans called Terres de Café. The store sells only café de terroirs—coffees coming from specific regions of specific countries, such as Ethiopia Anfiloo or Guatemala Attila SHB Huehuetenango.

The shop is rather small, but the owners have found room to install a counter from which they serve espresso coffee. When we entered, a few customers were enjoying their cup of java there.

In response to his question about what kind of coffee I was looking for, I told the clerk that I was looking for a coffee that was not too strong…but not too weak. He replied that I was trying to do a grand écart, implying that it would be impossible to bring the opposites together in one brew! Then he took a giant step and stood legs wide apart (a grand écart), showing how awkward this was. I suspect that some customers might have felt put off by this response, but having lived in France for eighteen years, I am used to the French expressing their ideas in ironic, sometimes oddly humoristic ways.

He proposed a house blend called Mélange Parfait Expresso consisting of four cafés de terroirs: India, Sumatra, Brazil, and Ethiopia.

Selection of Coffees
Photo by www.DiscoverParis.net

I purchased a 250-gram bag of whole bean for 6.50€ and took it home to try it out, using my French press to brew the coffee. I found the aroma slightly sweet, and the taste to be full-bodied, smooth, and slightly sweet with no bitter aftertaste. Neither too strong nor too weak, it is a perfect grand écart!

The clerk told me that I should try the bakery Pain de Sucre for the perfect galette des Rois. I blogged about the bakery and its galettes last Wednesday. He also mentioned that Terres de Café has a larger shop next door to the bakery, where there is more room to enjoy an espresso at the counter.

Terres de Café
32, rue des Blancs Manteaux
75004 Paris
Tel: 01.42.72.33. 29

14, rue Rambuteau
75003 Paris
Tel: 01.42.78.49.79

Mélange Parfait Expresso
Photo by www.DiscoverParis.net

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Paris Apaches

January 7th, 2011
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A little more than one hundred years ago, Paris was seized by a fear of the night. Gangs of young hoodlums were prowling the streets in the darkness, looking for persons to attack and rob, or, in some cases, to kill just for the pleasure of the act.

In this month’s Paris Insights we explore the world of the apaches—gangs of young thugs that seemed to roam the city and attack with impunity.

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Bonne lecture!

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Galette des Rois

January 5th, 2011
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The twelfth day of Christmas, Epiphany, is celebrated with Kings’ cake, or galette des Rois, as they are called in France.

Galette des Rois from Pain de Sucre
(c) Discover Paris!

The cakes, made of flaky puff-pastry layers with a dense center of frangipane, are sold in bakeries during the month of January. We wanted to purchase our galette from a specific bakery in the Marais, but when we arrived at the address we found that it was no longer in business. We stopped at a coffee house in the neighborhood to purchase some fresh-roasted coffee beans and were told that one of the finest bakeries in Paris was the nearby Pain de Sucre. So we hastened over there and purchased a small galette (for two to four persons). This 6 ¾” diameter by 1” tall cake weighing 290 grams cost 20€. A pretty penny to pay for such a small cake!

We found the galette to be quite buttery and flaky; its 3/8” almond-paste filling was light and airy, rather than heavy and pasty as one so often finds in these pastries. Each contains a porcelain bean (fève, in French). The person whose slice contains the fève is King or Queen for the day! He or she gets to wear a paper crown, which is provided with the galette.

Pain de Sucre
14 Rue Rambuteau
75003 Paris
Tel: 01.45.74.68. 92

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Lilane – A Fine-dining Neighborhood Restaurant

January 1st, 2011
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Chef Stéphane Guilçou of Lilane
(c) Discover Paris!

Located near place Monge, on the corner of rues Gracieuse and Pestalozzi, Lilane is a wonderfully atypical neighborhood restaurant. It offers excellent cuisine in sophisticated yet modest surroundings, and provides service with a smile.

In this month’s Le Bon Goût, a feature of our newsletter Paris Insights, we review this restaurant and present its chef, Stéphane Guilçou.

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Bonne lecture!

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La Table d’Orphée

December 29th, 2010
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La Table d’Orphée is a catering service located on rue de Bazeilles, just below rue Mouffetard in the 5th arrondissement. It was opened a few years ago by two young men, Alexis and Orfeo, who have been friends since childhood.

On days when we have forgotten to take the meat out of the freezer, we have trekked down to their boutique to purchase dinner. They always have a good selection of house-made starters, main courses, and desserts to choose from! And the best thing is that the cost of their gourmet take-out dishes is about half of what one would pay for a fine dinner at a mid-priced restaurant.

As well as take out, the boutique also has a sit-down dining service, with a specially-priced menu at lunchtime.

Recently we peered in their front window and saw a delicious selection of pastries. Refusing to resist temptation, we purchased two: L’Opéra de l’Orphée and Le Kub de Noël Coco-Praliné.

Pastries in the Table d'Orphée Shop Window
(c) Discover Paris!

L’Opéra de l’Orphée is a thin, multi-layered (I counted eight) cake including a moist, dark-chocolate layer, a layer of coffee-cream frosting, a biscuit Joconde, and a top frosting of dark chocolate.

Le Kub de Noël Coco-Praliné is a cube-shaped, roasted-coconut-dusted cake filled with crème pralinée and a chocolate-cream center. The top is garnished with a craquant au chocolat, white-chocolate matchsticks, and a white-chocolate disc bearing the Table d’Orphée logo. The sides are studded with almond-vanilla-flavored macarons.

Kub de Noël and Opéra de l'Orphée
(c) Discover Paris!

So sweet, so satisfying!

La Table d’Orphée
5, rue de Bazeilles
75005 Paris
Tel. 01.43.36.48.10

Open seven days a week, from 9:00 a.m. to 9:00 p.m.

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La Table d’Orphée

Africolor with Danyèl Waro

December 26th, 2010
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Danyèl Waro
(c) Discover Paris!

The second part of the Africolor music concert held in Bobigny on December 5 featured Danyèl Waro, a singer from La Réunion.

Accompanied by a number of percussionists, Waro sang maloya—a musical genre descended from the era when slaves worked the plantations of the island. For Waro, this music represents many things, including defiance. In 1946, Reunion Island was incorporated into the French administration as an overseas département. By the early 60s, the music was perceived as a symbol of revolt against the established order and was (unofficially) banned.

Waro was born in 1955 to a family that lived in a hut with no running water or electricity. In 1972, he embraced maloya as well as the militancy associated with it after attending a concert by maloya singer Firmin Viry. When inducted into the French army in 1976, Waro refused to wear the uniform and was sent to jail for two years for insubordination. During that time he wrote songs evoking themes of resistance and solidarity, including his passion for his native land, the hardships of working as a sugar cane cutter, and the anti-apartheid struggle in South Africa.

Today, Waro is recognized as one of the foremost singers of maloya. He refuses to compromise the music, performing it only in Créole with acoustic (as opposed to electronic) instruments, including those he makes himself—the kayamba, the bobre, and the rouleur. Womex, an organization that promotes folk, ethnic, and traditional music, called him “the uncompromising maloya hero from Reunion Island.” On October 31, 2010 he received the Womex Artist Award. On November 24, he received the Prix de l’Académie Charles Cros for his album Aou Amwin.

To the unaccustomed ear, the music sounds strange and exotic. Waro’s voice is powerful, and though I could not understand the words, I could sense the emotional intensity. In one of his songs (I do not know if he performed it that day), Waro urges his compatriots to be proud of what he calls their island’s “bastard” society made up of Africans, Madagascans, Indians, Chinese, and Europeans.

Bastardicité

I’m not white
no, I’m not black
don’t pin me with an ethnicity
I’m cross-breed cafres (black), yab (white), malbar (Indian)
my roots are bastard, fine and pure
sinwa (Chinese), arab (Arab), zorèy (French), komor (Comorian)
my roots are bastard, fine and pure

Go on, find it if you want
Go on, buy it if you want
your white-icity, your French-icity,
me, I got no need to search
I got a reservoir of qualities
that flows and overflows
from all my Bastardicity
all my Reunionicity

Go on, find it if you want
Go on, buy it if you want
your pure Indian-icity, your pure Chinese-icity
your pure European-icity, your pure African-icity
me, I got no need to search
I got a reservoir of qualities
that flows and overflows
from all my Bastardicity
all my Reunionicity

Go on, straighten your hair
Go defrizz it if you care
I got no need to flatten my curl
I like my afro fluffed out full
it makes a great pillow for me and my girl

Play your snob games if you care
Show off your French, your savoir-faire
I got no need to brag that way
I got my Creole growl in me
to sing my maloya, my séga kabaré
to sing my maloya, my narlgon kabaré.

(Song by Danyèl Waro from his album Batarsité on the Piros label, 1994)

An interview (in French) of Waro that appeared in Culture en Movement magazine in February 2000 has been posted to the Web site L’Elixir du Dr. Funkathus.

An extensive article (in English) about him can be found on the Womex Web site.

Wine and Cheese at Le Coup de Grâce

December 22nd, 2010
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Le Coup de Grâce is a wine shop that opened in September 2009 at 26, rue Berthollet in the 5th arrondissement. We stopped here after attending an open house held for an art exhibit in another part of town.

Arriving at around 9:00 p.m., we asked one of the proprietors, Etienne, if we could order a simple cheese platter and a glass of wine. He directed us to a tall table at which stood two tall chairs, and invited us to take a seat. In response to his question about the kind of wine that we might like to order to accompany our cheese, my partner said, “Viognier,” which is a type of white wine grape that produces a distinctive flavor. After a brief discussion about the qualities that this wine might contribute to the cheese platter, we settled for a glass of Martinelle, a vin de pays produced by Corinna Faravel in the Ventoux region of the Rhone Valley.

Etienne served each of us a glass of this pale-gold wine, and placed a platter of four cheeses on the table. These consisted of Saint Pascal, Cantal jeune, Morbier, and Comté. Saint Pascal is a firm, tangy, raw cow’s milk cheese from the Appenzell region of northeast Switzerland; Cantal is an ivory-colored, semi-hard cheese – when young (as ours was) it still has the sweetness of raw milk; Morbier is a supple cheese with black layer of vegetable product that recalls the days when soot was sprinkled on the fresh curd to keep insects away; and Comté is a firm, pale cheese with a nutty tang – when mature, it has a pleasant gritty texture due to the crystallization of salts.

As for the wine, I found it to be sharp with notes of bitter almond. My partner described it as soft with notes of peach. Despite these contrasting gustatory perceptions, we both enjoyed it and the cheeses that it accompanied!

While we sampled the wine and cheese, lively jazz played over the sound system.

The bill for the cheese platter and three glasses of wine came to 19€.

The walls of the wine shop are currently decorated with photographs by Jean-Claude Valette. Valette’s wife Ivlita Mujiri is the artist who designed the image of the devilish-looking wine taster. The image serves as the logo of the wine shop.

Le Coup de Grâce
26 rue Berthollet
75005 PARIS
Tel. 01.45.35.82.37

Opening hours:
Mondays from 4:00 p.m. to 9:00 p.m.
Tuesdays and Wednesday from 10:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. and from 4:00 p.m. to 9:00 p.m.
Thursday and Friday from 10:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. and from 4:00 p.m. to 11:00 p.m.
All day Saturday from 10:30 a.m. to 11:00 p.m.
Sunday from 10:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m.

Wine and Cheese at Le Coup de Grâce
(c) Discover Paris!

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Wine and Cheese at Le Coup de Grâce