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A Champagne Reception at La Bonne Franquette

October 12th, 2011

Anne and Patrick Frachboud
Owners of La Bonne Franquette
Photo by www.DiscoverParis.net

Last night we attended a champagne reception at La Bonne Franquette, a restaurant located on Butte Montmartre not far from Sacré-Cœur Basilica. Organized by the owners, Patrick and Anne Fracheboud, there were six different champagnes available to taste including three mono-cépages (champagne from a single grape variety).

La Bonne Franquette specializes in regional cuisine. We dined there recently and were impressed by the quality of the food and service. Located in the heart of a major tourist attraction (just off place du Tertre), it would be so easy for the owners to take the path of least resistance and serve mediocre food to the hundreds of tourists who come here. The Frachebouds, however, have chosen to set their sights higher. The proof is in the quality of the delicious regional dishes that they serve!

La Bonne Franquette
Photo by www.DiscoverParis.net

We wrote an extensive article about La Bonne Franquette for this month’s edition of Le Bon Goût, a restaurant review feature that appears in our monthly newsletter Paris Insights.

Click here to read a brief summary of the October issue, and here to enter a subscription.

Bonne lecture!

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A Champagne Reception at La Bonne Franquette

The Inventory of French Regional Foods

October 11th, 2011

Mary and Philip Hyman
Photo by www.DiscoverParis.net

On Sunday, we blogged about the reception that American Ambassador Charles Rivkin held in honor of Nathan Myhrvold. At that reception we also met Philip and Mary Hyman, both of whom have been extensively involved for the past twenty years in the publication of a twenty-two volume encyclopedia entitled L’Inventaire du Patrimoine Culinaire de la France. The Hymans are members of the steering committee which oversees the research and publication of this important work. What makes it important is that it is an extensive inventory of traditional French foods region by region—the collection is an historical record of regional foods that may someday no longer exist.

A government-sponsored undertaking, the project was started in 1990. Each French region finances the effort to research and write the material for the specific volume devoted to the food of that region.

The Hymans told us that there are two teams that research and write the texts. The first is composed of field workers who interview producers; the second, of historians who document the history of the foods being described. For practical purposes, traditional foods are defined as those in existence for at least two generations and firmly anchored in the local culture. The inventory is not a survey of regional recipes but of produce found in local markets that reflects specific regional tastes and savoir-faire. The research casts a wide net, including raw ingredients (local plant varieties or breeds of animals), cheeses, breads, pastries, etc.

The penultimate two volumes in the series are due to be published by the end of the year, one on the region Centre, the other on Auvergne. The collection will then have covered all the regions of metropolitan France as well as Guadeloupe, Martinique, and French Guyana. A final volume, devoted to the foods of the Island of Reunion, is currently under consideration.

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The Inventory of French Regional Foods

Modernist Cuisine By Nathan Myhrvold

October 9th, 2011

Nathan Myhrvold
Photo by www.DiscoverParis.net

Ambassador Rivkin and Nathan Myhrvold
Photo by www.DiscoverParis.net

We had the good fortune to be invited to a reception at the American ambassador’s residence last night where Nathan Myhrvold was the guest of honor. Among other achievements, Myhrvold is the co-author of Modernist Cuisine, a six-volume book on the art and science of cooking. This is an amazing book, which shows in glorious photographs what happens when you apply heat to food. Though priced way too high for the average person who cooks at home and wants to understand the chemical and physical processes of food preparation (400€ on the Continent), it will undoubtedly help professional chefs who want to improve their cooking techniques. For those who are not professional cooks, if they can get a hold of a copy we are certain that they will spend many happy hours just browsing through the fantastic photographs.

Monique Y. Wells, co-founder of Discover Paris!
and Nathan Myhrvold, co-author of Modernist Cuisine
Photo by www.DiscoverParis.net

Mr. Myhrvold is in Europe to promote the European editions of his book. It will soon be released in French, Spanish, and German. Myhrvold is hobnobbing with some of France’s greatest chefs as part of this effort—Pierre Hermé and Jacques Le Divellec were among the invitees for the Ambassador’s soirée on Saturday, and Myhrvold met with Alain Ducasse on Friday evening.

Ambassador Rivkin introduced Myhrvold—I do not remember his exact words—as being a modern-day Diderot. Denis Diderot was a major figure of the Enlightenment and co-founder and chief editor of an encyclopedia published in France between 1751 and 1772 that helped change the way people viewed the world. I do not think it an exaggeration to say—and this is probably what Ambassador Rivkin said—that Myhrvold’s book Modernist Cuisine will change the way that people view cooking and food.

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Modernist Cuisine By Nathan Myhrvold

Cupcake Camp Winners

October 7th, 2011

Cupcake

I was unable to attend the fabulous Cupcake Camp, held in Paris on Sunday, October 2. I do want to comment on it though, because it was a successful event and its organizers, Cat Beurnier, Nicolette Van der Doe, and Bryan Pirolli put in a lot of effort to bring it off.

Over five hundred persons attended the bake sale, some 2,600 cupcakes were sold, and it raised roughly 6,000€ for Make a Wish France!

Congratulations go out to three winners:

Rose & Cook, for Most Unusual Ingredient with her Vitelotte Potato and Violet Syrup cupcake.

Rose & Cook Avatar

Winning Cupcakes
Most Unusual Ingredient
Photo courtesy of
Rose & Cook

Marie Grave won Best Fall-inspired Cupcake with her Apple, Nut, and Maple Syrup cupcakes.

Photo Unavailable

Winning Cupcakes
Best Fall-inspired Cupcakes
Photo courtesy of
Marie Grave

And Rahima Mohammad took three categories: the Most Parisian cupcake, the Make a Wish cupcake, and Best in the Show.

Rahima Mohammad
Winner in Three Categories
Photo courtesy of
Rahima Mohammad

Best Cupcakes
in Three Categories
Photo from
Cupcake Camp Web Site

See you next year at Cupcake Camp!

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Cupcake Camp Winners

Fun on the Seine with Fête de la Gastronomie

October 5th, 2011

Beer Tasting on the Seine
Photo by www.DiscoverParis.net

France celebrated its first Fête de la Gastronomie on Friday, September 23. In Paris there were many special events to celebrate this day including a “2 for 1” offer in some of Paris’ top restaurants (during the week of September 19-25), cheese tastings, chocolate tastings, and more!

I chose to attend three events, two of which were organized around the theme of coffee. I will report on these at another time. The third was an event that took place on a boat called Six-Huit that was docked at quai Montebello across the river from Notre-Dame Cathedral. Here, from 7:30 p.m. until who knows what time the party broke up, a number of artisanal beer brewers from all over France came to pour their brews for beer enthusiasts. For the price of 21€, one had the right to taste four beers and a platter of either cheese or charcuterie. It was a good price for the privilege of sipping suds while meeting some of the movers and shakers of the micro-brewery industry in France and while standing on a péniche with an incredible view of the cathedral.

I met Laurent Mousson, beer aficionado and vice-president of the European Beer Consumers Union, who told me that artisanal micro-brewers were advised that the French would never accept the naturally bitter beers that they wanted to produce. They pressed ahead anyway, and according to the manifesto posted (in French) on their Web site, the industry is experiencing healthy growth.

Laurent Mousson, Beer Aficionado
Photo by www.DiscoverParis.net

I met Marjorie Jacobi, a brewer from Blainville-sur-l’Eau in the Lorraine region (in eastern France) whose California lager that she calls La Véronique Lucienne was a pleasure to drink. It was dry and slightly sweet at the same time, with notes of bitter orange. When I told her that I was from California, she was especially pleased to learn that I liked her beer.

Marjorie Jacobi, Micro-brewer
Photo by www.DiscoverParis.net

I met Nathalie, a Parisian who brews her own beers.

Nathalie, Private Beer Brewer in Paris
Photo by www.DiscoverParis.net

I met a group of beer lovers from an association called Amis de la Bière – Ile de France. They love to talk about beer and drink it at social occasions that they organize in the Ile de France region.

And I met Cyril Lalloum, who organizes social events around beer that he and his partner Laurent Cicurel call Les Soirées Maltées. It was they who organized that night’s event.

Around 10:00 p.m. I noted the marvelous effect that beer has upon a person who begins his evening on an almost imperceptibly rocking boat. Although I had drunk only four gavroches (a glass with a capacity of 12.5cl), I had the very real sensation that the boat was rocking even more! Fearing that more drinking might cause the boat to capsize, I set my glass down, bade farewell to new friends, and set off into the Paris night.

On the Boat
Péniche Six-Huit
Photo by www.DiscoverParis.net

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The Floating Market of Paris

September 28th, 2011

View of Marché Flottant and Brass Band from Bridge
Photo by www.DiscoverParis.net

On the weekend of September 16 – 18 an event called Les Marchés Flottants du Sud-Ouest was held at quai Montebello, a quay that lies across the river from Notre-Dame Cathedral. Over fifty food producers from southwest France were there, displaying their products and offering them for tasting and for sale. Three French administrative départements were represented: Gers, Lot-et-Garonne, and Tarn-et-Garonne. It was an excellent occasion for tasting some of France’s regional produce!

I did not get there until early Sunday afternoon, but nonetheless arrived at a good time. Stopping at pont de l’Archevêché, a bridge that overlooks the quay, I watched and listened to the brass band Beni Can Podi playing like there was no tomorrow. This link to their tune Il a fait de la moto will give an idea of their music. I watched them for the longest time!

Beni Can Podi Brass Band
Photo by www.DiscoverParis.net

From the bridge I could see that the market was not floating as its name would suggest, but rather was on dry land. In spite of this disappointment, I resolved to find the stairway leading down to the quay so that I could join the festival.

When I arrived, I could see tents set up along the quay where the producers were displaying their products. Although there were lots of people milling about, it was fairly easy to move from one stand to another. I was surprised about this, because these kinds of events can attract a big crowd, making it difficult to progress.

People at the Stands
Photo by www.DiscoverParis.com

I came upon Glosek Gourmet, which sold desserts from Gascony including babas, canelés, and crêpes all soaked in syrup made from sugared Armagnac. What a great idea! I decided then and there to start my lunch with dessert and purchased a plate of the confections for 2€. A good price for three sweet treats!

Baba Gascon
Photo by www.DiscoverParis.net

Next, I came upon cheese producer Tome du Ramier selling (and offering tastings of) two kinds of cheeses: Ramier Roux and Tome du Ramier, both made from raw cow’s milk. Ramier Roux is a soft, slightly sweet cheese and Tome du Ramier is a rustic cheese with a strong flavor. I ordered a tartine (not pictured) made of the latter for 2€. It was a country-style, open-faced sandwich consisting of a slice of cheese atop a thin slice of bread. A hearty snack!

Assiette Dégustation
Photo by www.DiscoverParis.net

Then I came upon the stand Melon de Lectoure, selling beautiful melons called Les Puits d’Amour. I purchased a plate of diced melon for 2€ and enjoyed the orange-colored flesh that seemed similar to cantaloupe but was sweeter and juicier. Food always tastes better when you are in Paris!

Le Puits d'Amour
Photo by www.DiscoverParis.net

Following this wonderful meal, I got in line for a free distribution of fruit from the region. The queue was long, but it moved quickly. I received a bag full of produce containing two bunches of grapes (probably Chasselas), four apples (they looked and tasted like Pink Lady), and two bulbs of garlic.

Distributing Grapes
Photo by www.DiscoverParis.net

People sat all along the quay drinking wine and enjoying the food that they had purchased. It was a perfect day for a picnic!

Picnic on the Quay
Photo by www.DiscoverParis.net

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The Floating Market of Paris

An Afternoon with Goran Bregovic and His Orchestra

September 27th, 2011

Goran Bregovic and Orchestra
Photo by www.DiscoverParis.net

I must admit that before the afternoon of Sunday, September 25 I had never heard the music of guitarist, singer, orchestra leader, and composer Goran Bregovic. This is also an admission that I have not seen the award-winning movies Time of the Gypsies (1988) and Arizona Dream (1993) for which he composed the musical scores.

The concert that I attended on Sunday changed all that.

The event was held at the Cirque d’Hiver Bouglione, a building that looks like a circus tent located in the 11th arrondissement of Paris. Bregovic performed in the arena with his Orchestre des Mariages et des Enterrements (Marriage and Funeral Orchestra), a group consisting of a women’s choir (two Bulgarian singers), a men’s choir (six Slavic singers), a brass section, a string ensemble, and a drummer (who also sang). Altogether there were about twenty performers on stage!

Bulgarian Women's Choir
Photo by www.DiscoverParis.net

Slavic Men's Choir
Photo by www.DiscoverParis.net

They began the concert with a slow piece, somewhat dreary, which belied the kind of explosive music that they were capable of. All of a sudden they stopped and broke into pulse-pounding fanfare of what sounded to me like raucous gypsy music. This brought screams of delight from the audience, whose enthusiasm demonstrated that they were already quite familiar with the music that Bregovic would perform that afternoon. For the rest of the roughly two-and-one-half-hour concert Bregovic and his orchestra played music that provoked emotions ranging from high excitement to sober reflection, oftentimes all in the same piece!

Audience Reaction
Photo by www.DiscoverParis.net

To my ear, the sometimes strident and volatile brass pieces resembled mariachi music of Mexico; the temperate and restrained singing of the Bulgarian women’s choir resembled music from Arabia. For the longest time, Bregovic was a guitarist in a popular Yugoslav rock band. The music that his orchestra performed on Sunday reflected not only the influence of hard rock, but also polyphony from Bulgaria and gypsy fanfare. What a fantastic combination!

Goran Bregovic
Photo by www.DiscoverParis.net

The people at Festival d’Ile-de-France deserve commendation for bringing this marvelous group to Paris to perform. Click here to learn about its program.

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An Afternoon with Goran Bregovic and His Orchestra

Sunday Morning on Rue Mouffetard

September 25th, 2011

Raymond Pouring Clos Cibonne
Cuvée Tendence Rosé 2010
Photo by www.DiscoverParis.net

Every Sunday morning Raymond and his colleagues are there, offering wine tastings in front of the shop La Fontaine aux Vins.

This morning Raymond was pouring a rosé from Clos Cibonne, a vineyard in Provence. The rosé is made from a cépage called Tibouren, a variety of red grape whose history dates back to antiquity.

Raymond’s dictum seemed fitting for the occasion: “Buvez du vin en pleine rue Mouffetard est quand même plus agréable.” (Drinking wine on rue Mouffetard is, after all, more enjoyable.)

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Foodspotting at Le Pearl with Lindsey Tramuta

September 24th, 2011

Le Pearl
Photo by www.DiscoverParis.net

Foodspotting is an iPhone app that allows people to find specific dishes that they like in any neighborhood that they happen to be in. It is another step in the evolution of the “satisfy me now because I can’t wait” culture that we have quickly learned to take for granted and from which we will expect more in the future. Gone are the days in which we saw the benefit of surveying restaurant reviews and putting careful thought into choosing the restaurant at which we might like to dine, taking into account important factors such as ambiance, service, and cuisine. Now we can consult our iPhone for a quick look at what others have said about a particular dish for which we have a hankering and go immediately to the restaurant that is serving it.

On Friday, September 9, we attended a Foodspotting kickoff that Lindsey Tramuta organized at Le Pearl.

Lindsey Tramuta
Photo by www.DiscoverParis.net

The restaurant served five samplers from its menu for the occasion. For the modest price of 9.50€ we received a plate containing shrimp cocktail, a chicken club sandwich, diced Cantal cheese, a tiny hamburger, and melon balls. We were pleased with the presentation, the freshness, and taste of these samplers and plan to return to the restaurant to dine.

Food Platter
Photo by www.DiscoverParis.net

For dessert, we ordered Douceur de Speculoos. The dish consisted of a mound of crumbled Speculoos topped by a disk-shaped layer of whipped, custard-like cream. Three dollops of whipped cream and sliced, fresh strawberries garnished the plate. This is a simple dish, and I thought that it might have been conceived of as a dessert that could quickly be made to serve to a child, but it was a real treat for the sweet tooth that I am!

Douceur de Speculoos
Photo by www.DiscoverParis.net

Cocktails were served at happy-hour prices, including one made with Blue Curacao, gin, lemon juice and lemon-flavored soda pop (the latter is called limonade in French). Another cocktail that I enjoyed was made with chocolate and coconut liqueurs.

Chocolate and Coconut Liqueur Cocktail
Photo by www.DiscoverParis.net

For the event, dining tables had been placed at the front and sides of the room, leaving a space in the center so that people could gather there for cocktail chit-chat. The restaurant does not have any curtains or carpet to absorb sounds. Animated conversation and jazz playing over the sound system combined to make the room quite noisy.

Cocktail Chit-chat
Photo by www.DiscoverParis.net

As stated above, we plan to dine again at this restaurant, order from the menu, and write a review of our experience there. The review will be posted on our Paris Insights restaurant review page and will be available for your perusal…that is if you can wait that long!

Le Pearl
46, rue Jean-Pierre Thimbaud
75011 Paris
Telephone: 01.48.07.48.98
Metro: Parmentier (Line 3)
Open Mon to Friday Noon – 3:00 p.m. and 6:30 p.m. – 2:00 a.m.
Open Sat 6:30 p.m. – 2:00 a.m.
Open Sun Noon – 3:00 p.m.

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Posted in food, restaurants, Social mixer | Comments Off on

Foodspotting at Le Pearl with Lindsey Tramuta

Paris Insights - The Blog

A Champagne Reception at La Bonne Franquette

The Inventory of French Regional Foods

Modernist Cuisine By Nathan Myhrvold

Cupcake Camp Winners

Fun on the Seine with Fête de la Gastronomie

The Floating Market of Paris

An Afternoon with Goran Bregovic and His Orchestra

Sunday Morning on Rue Mouffetard

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