Seven Authors Tell Why They Like Paris in December

November 21st, 2015
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Christmas Header for Paris Writers Connection

 

Galerie Lafayette Christmas tree 2010_2The December holidays are just around the corner! We asked the members of the Paris Writers’ Connection to tell us what they like in particular about that month.

Happy holidays and happy reading!

 

 

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Vicki Lesage, author of Confessions of a Paris Party Girl
Vicki LesageI love that the Christmas season doesn’t start too early in Paris (unlike in the US where decorations go up before you’ve even had a chance to finish eating your Halloween candy) but once it starts, it’s glorious. The French don’t shy away from festive decorations, and nearly every street has some sort of display. As you walk through the City of Light during the holiday season, you can’t help but be dazzled.

 

 

Christmas Confessions and CocktailsVicki Lesage proves daily that raising French kids isn’t as easy as the hype lets on. She penned the Paris Confessions series in between diaper changes and wine refills: Confessions of a Paris Party Girl, Confessions of a Paris Potty Trainer, Petite Confessions, and Christmas Confessions & Cocktails. She writes about the ups and downs of life in the City of Light at VickiLesage.com.

Buy now: http://www.amazon.com/Vicki-Lesage/e/B00HUZQUI4

 

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Tom Reeves, author of Dining Out in Paris – What You Need to Know before You Get to the City of Light
Tom ReevesChristmas in Paris is the most peaceful season of the year. Because many Parisians leave the city to reunite with relatives during the holidays, those who stay behind enjoy a noticeably reduced tempo of automobile and pedestrian traffic on the streets. This makes Christmas a time to relax and enjoy the city! My wife and I particularly appreciate the traditional, seasonal confections that are available in the shops. Examples include bûche de Noël, a rolled sponge cake that is decorated to resemble a Yule log, and candied chestnuts. We also enjoy strolling about to see Christmas decorations in different neighborhoods. The enormous Christmas tree that stands in front of Notre Dame Cathedral each year is particularly inspiring.

 

Tom Reeves has been a confirmed Francophile since he first took an unpaid sabbatical in 1975 to travel to France to learn the language, see the country, and pursue a diploma in French language, literature, and civilization. Returning to California in 1978, he eventually realized that while he had left France, France had never left him. He moved back permanently in 1992. Reeves’ latest book Dining Out in Paris – What You Need to Know before You Get to the City of Light helps Paris-bound travelers understand French dining customs so that they feel comfortable when entering into a French restaurant for the first time.

Buy now: http://amzn.to/1nkgCyu

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Lily Heise, author of Je T’Aime…Me Neither
Lily HeiseThe holiday season is one of the most magical times of the year in Paris. Although the days might be darker, Paris truly becomes the City of Light, but also that of joy and community. There’s a true village feel. Each subdistrict within each arrondissement proudly displays its own street lighting, shops decorate with care, residents express and indulge in extra joie de vivre which encompasses so much of the essence of Paris; good food, wine, laughter, and enjoying the moment with loved ones, something that will be especially poignant and highlighted this year.

 

Je t'aime... me neitherApril Lily Heise is a Canadian writer and romance expert based in Paris. Her writing has been featured in the Huffington Post, Conde Nast Traveler, Frommer’s, City Secrets, and DK Eyewitness Guides and other local and international publications. She is the author of Je T’Aime, Me Neither, a lively novelized memoir on her romantic misadventures and continues to share dating tips, stories, and travel features on her blog www.jetaimemeneither.com.

 

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Rosemary Flannery, author of Angels of Paris
Rosemary FlanneryWhimsical creativity and the fine French aesthetic are what makes the capital city so entrancing. Nativity scenes – “les crèches” – in Parisian churches delight both believers and non-believers. At the majestic Madeleine Church, a contemporary artist is commissioned each year to create the manger – this year it’s sculptress Pauline Ohrel. Miniature figurines carved in traditional Andalusian style on display at the Eglise de Bonne Nouvelle in the 2nd are a particular thrill to children. At the St Joseph Artisan Church in the 10th, 300 figurines re-enact the birth of Jesus in a virtual museum. And this year, Notre Dame Cathedral challenged its parishioners to a “stable-making” contest. All will be unveiled on the first weekend of Advent, November 28 – 29.

 

Angels of ParisRosemary Flannery is an author, photographer and tour guide. She arrived in France in1989, just in time for the bicentenary of the Revolution and the inauguration of the Louvre museum and its Pyramid. Passionate about Parisian architecture, she wrote Angels of Paris: An Architectural Tour of the History of Paris, celebrating the illustration of angels in the city’s facades, fountains and rooftops. Released in 2012 by The Little Bookroom NYC and distributed by Random House, her book is now available in French as Les Anges de Paris: Voyage au coeur de Paris, by Editions Exergue.

 

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Leonard Pitt, author of Walks Through Lost Paris
Leonard PittParis at Christmas is perfect for Americans. We don’t have to get caught up in the madness of the holiday and can enjoy it for all the best it has to offer. The holiday atmosphere permeates everything everywhere and provides the perfect background for the cafés, restaurants, a little shopping, and visits with friends. The city scintillates with light and joyful anticipation. If you get a chance to do Christmas there, don’t pass it up.
 
 
 
 
Walks through Lost ParisLeonard Pitt is an author, actor, and teacher. He lived in Paris for seven years in the 1960s and learned nothing about the city. It was only much later, in the 1990s, when he became shocked upon learning what he did not know that he started reading and researching everything he could about Paris and its history. As someone once said, “If you want to learn about something, write a book about it.” Leonard has written three books about Paris. His first, Walks Through Lost Paris was a bestseller in the French capital. In addition he has written, Paris, A Journey Through Time, and Paris Postcards, the Golden Age. His new book, My Brain On Fire, Paris and Other Obsessions, is a memoir. It will be published later this year by Counterpoint Press.

 

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Shari Leslie Segall, author of 90+ Ways You Know You’re Becoming French
Shari Leslie SegallThe best part of the holiday season in Paris is the shop windows. Bakeries, charcuteries, candy shops (Oh, especially the candy shops, and especially the chocolates!), caterers with their sculpted ducklings in feast-day fields of greens, produce-merchant pyramids of pommes, cheese vendors. Even fishmongers! You think what the French do best is prepare food? What they do supremely is display it. Let the Louvre be closed on Tuesdays—go out and pick up an end-of-year-holiday baguette and you’ll have all the art you need.
 
 
 
90+ Ways to Know You're Becoming FrenchShari Leslie Segall, is the author of France-themed books and articles. She teaches English and cross-cultural communication at the prestigious Institut des Etudes Politiques (Sciences Po) and at the French Military Academy. She is the founding director of Foreign Affairs, which provides linguistic and cross-cultural training and creates English-language documents for executives. Among her other works is 90+ Ways You Know You’re Becoming French, a just-for-fun little gem full of perspicacious cultural observations. The palm-sized book, illustrated with beautiful watercolors, is an amusing way to measure acquired “Frenchness” for those who have lived in France or studied its language: such as, “You know you’re becoming French when your holiday menu would not be complete without foie gras, oysters, and glazed chestnuts.”

90+ Ways You Know You’re Becoming French is available at select shops in Paris and on the FUSAC site http://store.fusac.fr.

 

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Lisa Vanden Bos, creator of the Speak Easy Puzzles
Lisa Vanden BosMy favorite part of Christmas in Paris is the holiday lights sponsored by the local businesses. On a wet night they not only light up the sky overhead but also reflect off the wet pavement. A street with lights is so much warmer and gay. I honestly feel that people are happier on those streets. In 2014 rue Lecourbe in the 15th arrondissement was my personal favorite. The ribbons of lights that zigzagged down about 600 meters of rue Lecourbe were stunning. Standing at the top of rue Lecourbe where it intersects with avenue Pasteur and looking to the south the effect of the light ribbon was as if it were a continuous canopy over the street. I sure hope they do this display again this year!
 
 
 
Speak Easy PuzzleLisa Vanden Bos, originally from New Jersey and in Paris since 1989, is co-owner of FUSAC, the magazine and website for English speakers in Paris. She has created three volumes of the Speak Easy Puzzles book which helps people to learn French and English idiomatic expressions in a fun way. She also collaborated on the book 90+ Ways You Know You’re Becoming French. Lisa never tires of exploring Paris and its outskirts, France and French language and culture.

All three volumes of the Speak Easy Puzzle book are available on the FUSAC site at http://store.fusac.fr

 

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Seven Authors Tell Why They Like Paris in December

Alliance Française de Minneapolis/St Paul: where French culture meets the Twin Cities
by Sabrina Kennelly

November 13th, 2015
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Within a network of over 1,134 Alliance Française chapters worldwide, the Alliance Française Minneapolis/St Paul is the only French cultural center in the state of Minnesota. In the 1920s, Professor Jacques Fermand of the University of Minnesota began the Twin Cities chapter with only a small group of interested members. Now, AFMSP has over 1,000 members and welcomes 900 students annually.

A propos
Located in the Warehouse district in downtown Minneapolis, Alliance Française Mpls/St Paul serves as a center for French-language activities, including its monthly Wine and Ciné Club, the promotion and presentation of arts and culture of France and French-speaking cultures around the world with celebrations such as its Le Mois de la Francophonie, and various educational components such as our language classes and library consisting of over 5,000 books in French.

Alliance Française of Minneapolis - St Paul Open House

Alliance Française of Minneapolis/St Paul – Open House
Photograph courtesy of AFMSP

In addition to these events, AFMSP hosts numerous events for French-speakers of all ages (not to mention last month’s fantastic presentation with the owner of this blog). Activities include teleconferences with the grandmother of the French nouvelle-vague Agnes Varda, and French economist Thomas Piketty, viewing a documentary on the French liberation movement “Je ne suis pas féministe mais…” with director Sylvie Tissot, book clubs, monthly breakfast conversation groups for the community, Bastille Day celebrations, musical events, concerts, lectures, conferences, holiday celebrations, and more. Venez nous rendre visite on our Facebook page to see what we are doing next!

Evènements à venir
Our variety of special events includes an annual Fête D’Hiver, which will feature a Francophone-inspired holiday market, a celebration of Beaujolais Nouveau 2015 with Jeunes Cadres Dynamiques, and our mini-class sessions ranging from cooking to learning about winter holidays around the world. To get more information about our latest events and classes please check out our Website.

Haïtian Performance - Le Mois de la Francophonie

Haïtian Performance – Le Mois de la Francophonie
Photograph courtesy of AFMSP

With over 150 events annually and a staff from around the world, Alliance Française Mpls/St Paul has a lot to offer to the community. There is no doubt that we play an influential role within the Twin Cities and Rochester community through our cultural and educational opportunities as well as our Executive Director’s role as an Honorary Consul for the state of Minnesota. For more information on Alliance Française Mpls/St Paul please visit our social media pages (Instagram, Twitter, and Facebook).

Sabrina Kennelly is marketing and communications intern at the Alliance Française of Minneapolis/St Paul.

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Liège and the Louvre – Partners in Art

September 15th, 2015
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September 14 was a grand day for France and the city of Liège, Belgium. A series of events unfolded to announce a cultural partnership that will be anchored by a collaboration between La Boverie, Liège’s fine arts museum, and the Louvre museum in Paris.

Fabienne Reuter, General Delegate of Wallonia-Bruxelles in Paris

Fabienne Reuter, General Delegate of Wallonia-Bruxelles in Paris
Photograph by www.DiscoverParis.net

The last event of the day celebrated the La Boverie-Louvre partnership with a reception and presentation at the Belgian Embassy. Madame Fabienne Reuter, General Delegate of Wallonia-Brussels in Paris, opened the ceremony by recalling her childhood memories of the unique site where La Boverie now stands. She then introduced the first speaker of the evening.

Willy Demeyer - Mayor of Liège

Willy Demeyer – Mayor of Liège
Photograph by www.DiscoverParis.net

Willy Demeyer, Mayor of Liège in Belgium, took the stage and spoke passionately about La Boverie, which is currently under renovation in Liège.

Vincent Pomarède - Director of Cultural Programming at the Louvre

Vincent Pomarède – Director of Cultural Programming at the Louvre
Photograph by www.DiscoverParis.net

He was followed by Vincent Pomarède, Director of Cultural Programming at the Louvre, who shared his enthusiasm for the partnership and spoke about the theme of “In Open Air,” the inaugural exposition to be held at La Boverie in May 2016. The show is still in the planning stage; details will be forthcoming in the near future.

François Dethier, Associate Director of Curtius Brewery - left - Michel Cloes,  - right

François Dethier (left) and Michel Cloes (right)
Photograph by www.DiscoverParis.net

Michel Cloes, Honorary Consul of France for the Provinces of Liège and Luxembourg and organizer of the event, was in attendance. He and François Dethier, Associate Director of Curtius Brewery in Liège, pose next to the Belgium flag, each holding a glass of Curtius beer.

Curtius Brewery was one of the supplies of Belgium products that were served at last night’s reception.

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A Sunday Promenade along the Ourcq Canal

August 30th, 2015
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Last Sunday, we joined a walking tour organized by the Seine-Saint-Denis Office of Tourism to learn about the “street art” that lines the walls of the industrial zone of the Ourcq Canal. Led by our guide, Thom-Thom, we wended our way from the Bobigny – Pablo Picasso metro station at the end of line 5 through a park to arrive at the canal.

Walking through Park

A Walk through the Departmental Park
Photograph by www.DiscoverParis.net

I was surprised to see how much greenery there is between the metro station and the canal. While we traversed the park, called Parc Départemental de la Bergère, I saw cyclists and joggers. And the people we saw on bicycles weren’t your ordinary Sunday-morning cyclists — they were wearing helmets and cycling shirts and shorts and were mounted on shiny, new velocipedes. The joggers, too, were dressed in sleek athletic wear.

Art across the Canal

Art across the Canal
Photograph by www.DiscoverParis.net

Once we got to the canal, Thom-Thom pointed across the water to indicate the wall along which the art was located. To me, it looked like the dreary graffiti that one sees on retaining walls along the tracks of any inter-city train that runs from Paris. Thom-Thom, however, spoke enthusiastically about it and made the following points:

* the people who paint the images do so as a means of leaving their personal stamp on the urban landscape
* the images are painted on decrepit walls of the industrial zone of the canal
* though the “tagging” is illegal, it is largely tolerated because of the location and because the owners of the tagged property do not file complaints with the local police.

Crossing Pedestrian Bridge to See the Art

Crossing Pedestrian Bridge to See the Art
Photograph by www.DiscoverParis.net

We crossed a pedestrian bridge to reach the other side of the canal and proceeded to walk along the wall. Along the way, Thom-Thom talked about the various techniques that street artists use, essentially cans of spray paint, but also roller brushes and stencils. He also talked about the camaraderie that formed among the artists and how groups (called “crews”) would claim an area as “theirs.”

We passed by junkyard dogs who ferociously barked their disapproval of our presence. Happily, they were confined to their compounds by sturdy fences. I noted that one of the dogs barely opened his eyes and continued to lie lazily on the ground. He seemed content to let his companions do the barking. That’s the kind of work that I would want if I were a junkyard dog!

Bicyclists and Boaters on the Canal

Bicyclists and Boaters on the Canal
Photograph by www.DiscoverParis.net

Thom-Thom explained some of the finer points of street art. He pointed out that a group of artists called VSD (Vie Social Déplorable) painted its logo here. Many artists prefer using the color silver because it shows up better in the dark, especially in train tunnels.

Vie Social Déplorable

Vie Social Déplorable
Photograph by www.DiscoverParis.net

A Street Artist's Self-portrait

A Street Artist’s Self-portrait
Photograph by www.DiscoverParis.net

Gothic Street Art

Gothic Street Art
Photograph by www.DiscoverParis.net

Thom-Thom called this cursive art “Gothic” style.

Woman with a  Six-shooter

Woman with a Six-shooter
Photograph by www.DiscoverParis.net

This lovely lady looked rather menacing.

Leaving the Industrial Zone

Leaving the Industrial Zone
Photograph by www.DiscoverParis.net

Thom-Thom shared many insights about “tagger” culture and technique on this stretch of the walk. We then left the industrial zone, passing through a tunnel, to continue our promenade down the canal. We now have a new appreciation of street art, thanks to Thom-Thom and the Seine-Saint-Denis Office of Tourism!

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Paris, The End Days
by
Leonard Pitt ©2015

August 24th, 2015
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Tour Triangle by Herzog and de Meuron

Tour Triangle by Herzog and de Meuron
Artist’s Rendition by Herzog and de Meuron

The question today is, “What will Paris look like a hundred years from now?” Recent developments answer the question.

Central Paris, preserved in its beauty, will sit at the bottom of a bucket surrounded by skyscrapers. The tourist driving into the city will pass signs along the way with arrows pointing towards “Centre Historique.”

Sound far fetched? Sadly not. How many Americans know of Mayor Anne Hidalgo’s plan to transform the city? Fearful that her capital is old fashioned and fast becoming a museum-city paralyzed in its beauty, she has embarked on a vast program dubbed Reinventing Paris to make her capital a showcase for futuristic architecture. And this includes building skyscrapers.

The reader gasps. “Skyscrapers in Paris! Are they crazy? Isn’t that why they built La Defense?” Right on both counts. But La Defense (the business district built to the west of the city) never lived up to expectations. So what they built outside of Paris and didn’t work, they now want to build inside Paris thinking (hoping) it will work.

Inconceivable as it may seem, the French think that skyscrapers will make the city more attractive and draw world-class corporations to restart a flagging economy.

I have news for Madame le Mayor. It won’t work.

But wait, it gets worse.

Samaritaine on Rue de Rivoli

The Samaritaine on Rue de Rivoli before Demolition
Google Street View

Paris is not stuck only on big modern. Small will do as well. The former department store La Samaritaine, comprised of several buildings between the Seine and rue de Rivoli, was closed in 2001 and sold in 2005 to the luxury group LVMH (Louis Vuitton, Moët-Hennessey). The plan is to convert the entire site into a four-star hotel and many floors of high-end shopping for the 1% tourist trade. To mark this rebirth, a “strong architectural gesture” was desired for the rue de Rivoli side.

The Japanese design group Sanaa was brought in. It designed a building with a seven-story facade of undulating glass extending the entire length of the block. The proposal was dubbed the “shower curtain” by protest groups who filed lawsuits to stop the project.

The New Samaritaine by Sanaa Artist's Rendition by Sanaa

The New Samaritaine by Sanaa
Artist’s Rendition by Sanaa

While litigation moved through the courts, four buildings were torn down: three built in 1852, and one in 1740. Then came the judgment: building permit annulled! All work was halted. A tad late for historic Paris.

The Paris City Plan, it was pointed out, states that new construction in Paris must not rupture the existing urban fabric. Supporters of the glass facade argued there would be no rupture. The glass would reflect the Haussmann buildings across the street. LVMH filed an appeal. The Mayor, horrified at the annulment, did not hesitate to put pressure in the right places and months later the court fulfilled her heart’s desire. Decision reversed. Paris will have its shower curtain after all.

To ensure that a boondoggle of this sort doesn’t happen again, Mayor Hidalgo has since proposed changes to the Paris City Plan to give wider berth to her plans to build modern and tall in Paris.

Once completed, the new Samaritaine facade will surely have a luster of newness. But it won’t last. It can’t last. Like Les Halles before it, this stretch of rue de Rivoli is destined to become the site of future regret in Paris. Sure as gravity.

A majority of Parisians are against this foisting of a modernity on Paris that can only fail. It is remarkable that citizens don’t amass by the thousands in front of City Hall to protect their jewel and stop it from becoming Dubai West.

Modernity has always had a hard time in Paris. The conversion of the old central market, Les Halles, the 59-story Maine-Montparnasse tower, and the mini-Manhattan within view of the Eiffel Tower (known as the Front de Seine) are all admitted failures. Each project in its turn showed Paris to be a living organism. The attempt to graft did not take. The host rejected the foreign body.

Paris will always be ready for the Rick Steves photo op. Tourists will continue to flock and will find plenty to love. But as that subtle membrane containing the city in its most delicate aspects – the low Paris skyline – is punctured by skyscrapers and the historic fabric of the city is ripped by an inappropriate modernity, one day the experienced Paris visitor will walk down a familiar boulevard and remark how everything in the beloved city looks the same but, oh, how different it all feels.

Did someone say, “We’ll always have Paris?” Hmmm . . .

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Leonard Pitt is an author, actor, and teacher. He lived in Paris for seven years in the 1960s and knew nothing about the city. It was only much later, in the 1990s, when he was so shocked at what he finally learned that he did not know that he started reading and researching everything he could about Paris and its history. And as someone once said, “If you want to learn about something, write a book about it.” Leonard has written three books about Paris. His first, Walks Through Lost Paris was a bestseller in the City of Light. In addition he has written, Paris, A Journey Through Time, and Paris Postcards, the Golden Age. He has a new book due out later this year, a memoir, My Brain On Fire, Paris and Other Obsessions by Counterpoint Press.

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Paris, The End Days
by
Leonard Pitt ©2015

A Brunch Cruise on the Ourcq Canal

July 22nd, 2015
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On the heels of the 4th of July boat cruise that we took with the Seine-Saint-Denis Tourist Office (our blog of July 5), we took another cruise last Saturday. This one was called Croisière brunch sur l’Ourcq avec les Marmites volantes, and it promised to be as fun as the first.

Our Cruise Boat - The Henri IV Photograph by sss.DiscoverParis.net

Our Cruise Boat – The Henri IV
Photograph by www.DiscoverParis.net

Monique and I showed up at the Bassin de la Villette, the rendezvous point, at 11:15 a.m. A short time later, the boat pulled up to the dock.

Thomas Guillot Prepares to Greet Guests Photograph by www.DiscoverParis.net

Thomas Guillot Prepares to Greet Guests
Photograph by www.DiscoverParis.net

Thomas Guillot of the Seine-Saint-Denis Tourist Office greeted us as we climbed on board. We went to the upper deck to enjoy the view while the boat got ready to shove off!

Enjoying the View from the Top Deck Photograph by www.DiscoverParis.net

Enjoying the View from the Top Deck while Waiting for the Boat to Shove Off
Photograph by www.DiscoverParis.net

Lift Bridge on Rue de Crimée Photograph by www.DiscoverParis.net

Lift Bridge on Rue de Crimée
Photograph by www.DiscoverParis.net

Bridge Rising Photograph by www.DiscoverParis.net

Bridge Rising
Photograph by www.DiscoverParis.net

The boat left the dock and we approached the lift bridge on rue de Crimée. The bridge rose, we passed under, and we were on our way!

Settling In for Brunch

Settling In for Brunch
Photograph by www.DiscoverParis.net

Then came the signal that brunch was served, and we filed down to the dining room where the tables were already set.

What We Had for Brunch Photograph by www.DiscoverParis.net

What We Had for Brunch
Photograph by www.DiscoverParis.net

Surprise! It was a vegetarian brunch! Here’s what we had –
Row one from left to right: Watermelon juice; Fresh country bread from La Conquête du Pain
Row two from left to right: Salad of carrot, red cabbage, white cabbage, pumpkin seed, and herbs; Salad of bulgar, beet, feta cheese, apricot, and parsley
Row three from left to right: Spanish omelet (potato tortilla); Fruit salad with white cheese and granola
Row four: Brownie with hazelnuts; carrot cake
Not pictured: Tomato gaspacho

Coffee and tea were available for free; wine and fruit juice were available for purchase.

It was a delicious, filling, and healthy meal.

Madalena Guerra with Her Marmites

Madalena Guerra with Her Marmites
Photograph by www.DiscoverParis.net

Madalena Guerra - Lelio Lemoine

Madalena Guerra and Lelio Lemoine
Photograph by www.DiscoverParis.net

Congratulations to Madalena Guerra and Lelio Lemoine, co-managers of Les Marmites Volantes, a restaurant that delivers freshly-made vegetarian and omnivore lunches to office workers in northeastern Paris. Sit-down dining at the restaurant is also available.

Rotonde de la Villette Photograph by www.DiscoverParis.net

Rotonde de la Villette
Photograph by www.DiscoverParis.net

Returning to the Bassin de la Villette at the end of the cruise, we were treated to a spectacular view of the Rotonde de la Villette, one of the four remaining tax offices built by architect Claude Nicolas Ledoux in the 18th century .

A good time was had by all!

Special note: The Seine-Saint-Denis Tourist Office has organized other brunch cruises for the summer. Check out their Web site: http://www.tourisme93.com/visites/2002-6846-croisiere-brunch-sur-l-ourcq.html

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The Magical World of the Musée des Arts Forains

July 16th, 2015
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My wife and I recently accepted an invitation to join a group to take a tour of the Musée des Arts Forains, a museum of fairground arts located in the Bercy Pavilions in Paris.

Entrance to Bercy Pavilions

Entrance to Bercy Pavilions
Photograph by www.DiscoverParis.net

Because we have heard that the museum was a must-see place for anyone nostalgic for the merry-go-rounds of days gone by, we didn’t anticipate much more than a quick ride on a carrousel. We showed up on a Monday morning and were met by a guide, Joris, who told us to be prepared for the magic that would take place during the tour. I was somewhat skeptical about how much magic old-fashioned fairground equipment could evoke, but as the visit progressed I was drawn into the enchantment.

Le Théâtre de Verdure Musee des Arts Forains

Le Théâtre de Verdure
Photograph courtesy of Pavillons de Bercy

Pink Panther Playing Bugle

Pink Panther Playing Bugle
Photograph by www.DiscoverParis.net

Our first stop was in the outdoor Théâtre de Verdure, a large space between rows of pavilions. The space was overgrown with trees and climbing vines, and if we looked carefully through the foliage, we could see a rabbit scampering down the trunk of a tree carrying a carrot and the Pink Panther marching across a branch playing a bugle. Something strange was going on here.

Hot Air Balloon Photograph courtesy of Pavillons de Bercy

Hot Air Balloon
Photograph courtesy of Pavillons de Bercy

We entered the first pavilion, Le Théâtre du Merveilleux. There, we saw things that were truly marvelous: a hot-air balloon lifting an elephant, Josephine Baker’s garter belt sporting three spangled bananas, several sculptures of wild beasts formed naturally from weathered tree trunks, and more!

Horse Race

Horse Race
Photograph by www.DiscoverParis.net

We played an arcade game where participants tried to make their horse outdistance the others by launching a wooden ball along a track with numbered holes. If the ball fell down the highest-numbered hole, the horse moved forward quickly. It was fun! My horse came in second to last.

Gondola Carrousel Photograph by Sebastien Siraudeau

Gondola Carrousel
Photograph by Sebastien Siraudeau

In the Salons Vénitiens we sat in gondolas mounted on a slow-moving carrousel and then watched a fantastic sound-and-light show. In an adjacent room, mechanical puppets (automatons) dressed in Venetian costume gave an opera performance in balconies high above.

Velocipede Carrousel Photograph courtesy of Pavillons de Bercy

Velocipede Carrousel
Photograph courtesy of Pavillons de Bercy

And in the Musée des Arts Forains some of the visitors mounted velocipedes to propel themselves in a tight circle on a high-speed carrousel. I was satisfied to ride a stationary horse on one of the staid merry-go-rounds in another room.

The event ended with hors-d’œuvres and champagne and everyone left with smiles on their faces. The Musée des Arts Forains had worked its magic!

Pouring Champagne

Pouring Champagne
Photograph by www.DiscoverParis.net

This summer, the museum will be open at 11:00 a.m. every Monday and Thursday during July and August for guided visits in English. Reservations are required. Click here for on-line booking.

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4th of July Celebration on the Ourcq Canal

July 5th, 2015
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Tom Reeves and Monique Y. Wells

Tom Reeves and Monique Y. Wells
Photographs by www.DiscoverParis.net

Yesterday evening we got aboard a boat to take a 4th of July cruise along the Ourcq Canal. Organized by the Seine-Saint-Denis Office of Tourism, the tour featured jazz entertainment by the Kalini Trio, Chicago-style hot dogs by Little Kitchen, and craft beer by Deck & Donohue, an artisanal brewery.

Kalani Trio - Caroline Wyatt - Arthur Links - Gabriel Midon

Kalani Trio with American Caroline Wyatt on vocals and French Arthur Links and Gabriel Midon on guitar and bass
Photograph by www.DiscoverParis.net

American Mike Donohue and French Thomas Deck, founders of Deck & Donohue Brewery

American Mike Donohue and French Thomas Deck, Founders of Deck & Donohue
Photograph by www.DiscoverParis.net

Darin and Sandriene Bieck, Founders of Little Kitchen

American and French Husband and Wife Team Darin and Sandriene Bieck, Founders of Little Kitchen
Photograph by www.DiscoverParis.net

Inside the Boat

Inside the Boat
Photograph by www.DiscoverParis.net

Marianne of Tom's River New Jersey

Marianne of Tom’s River, New Jersey
Photograph by www.DiscoverParis.net

A number of Americans were on board, including Marianne from Tom’s River, New Jersey. She is currently studying natural medicine in Hamburg, Germany and came to Paris for a brief stay.

Mike Donohue Pours a Cold Beer

Mike Donohue Pours a Cold Beer
Photograph by www.DiscoverParis.net

Chicago Hot Dogs and Chocolate Fondant

Chicago-style Hot Dogs and Chocolate Fondant by Little Kitchen
Photograph by www.DiscoverParis.net

All the ingredients were there for a great 4th of July celebration: good music, cold beer, and generous hot dogs. A good time was had by all!

Celebrating the 4th of July

Celebrating the 4th of July
Photograph by www.DiscoverParis.net

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The Impressionists — And the Man Who Made Them

June 23rd, 2015
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The Railway by Edouard Manet

The Railway by Edouard Manet
Image courtesy of Akuentic

The Impressionists — And the Man Who Made Them is a documentary film about a man who was smitten by a radical new form of painting and his determination to support and promote it. That new form of painting was called Impressionism and the man who supported it was a Parisian art dealer named Paul Durand-Ruel.

When Impressionist painters first began showing their works in the 1870s, they were greeted with derision by the French public and art critics. Up until that time, art was officially supported by the French government, and art that was accepted for display in its annual salons had to meet the standards of the jury of the French Academy of Fine Art. Art produced by graduates of the academy was characterized by its highly polished, finished style. The general public, accustomed to academic art, viewed the new “intransigent” art (later called “impressionism”) as crude and unfinished. People would go to galleries where these paintings were displayed not to ponder over them as works of art, but rather to laugh at them.

Paul Durand-Ruel was acutely aware of the public’s intense negative reaction to Impressionism, but he was determined to invest time, energy, and money in promoting the art and its artists until the paintings achieved the value that he thought they were worth. The process would take twenty years and bring the visionary art dealer close to bankruptcy on several occasions.

Preparing to Film in the Luxembourg Museum

Preparing to Film in the Luxembourg Museum
Image courtesy of Akuentic

The Impressionists — And the Man Who Made Them traces the history of Durand-Ruel’s struggle to make Impressionism acceptable. Phil Grabsky, a British documentary film maker, takes us into the Luxembourg Museum in Paris where an exhibit that treated the same subject was being installed. During the film, we see Durand-Ruel’s great grandson, great-great grand daughter, and other art curators talk about his unstinting support for the new painting and its artists. We are also treated to sumptuous close-up views of a number of the paintings, whose colors and textures appear with stunning exactitude on the wide screen of a movie theater. Enchanting piano music inspired by melodies of the period interweaves throughout the film, transforming it into a compelling story.

The Impressionists will be released in the United States on July 18. And the Luxembourg Museum exhibit that inspired the documentary has already moved to the United States, opening at the Philadelphia Museum of Art on June 24. Entitled “Discovering the Impressionists: Paul Durand-Ruel and the New Painting,” it runs until September 13.

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On Bastille Day, Celebrate France’s Joie de vivre with Books by the Members of the Paris Writers’ Connection

June 23rd, 2015
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Paris Writers Connection

 

French FlagBastille Day falls on July 14, only a few days away. To celebrate that day, we asked the members of the Paris Writers’ Connection tell us what they like about Paris. Happy Bastille Day and happy reading!

 

Vicki Lesage, author of Confessions of a Paris Party Girl

Vicki LesageMy favorite thing about Paris is my neighborhood boulangerie and the routine of getting my daily baguette. Even though there are two boulangeries closer to my apartment, I still venture out to my favorite one because the perfection of their baguettes is worth it. And now I bring my two-year-old son with me so he can share in this quintessential French experience. He knows how to order the baguette (hilariously addressing the boulangère as “Madame Baguette” in the process), pay for it (if I hand him the correct change in advance), and carry it home like a true Parisian: eating just the end off.

Confessions of a Paris Party GirlVicki Lesage proves daily that raising French kids isn’t as easy as the hype lets on. She penned three books in between diaper changes and wine refills: Confessions of a Paris Party Girl, Confessions of a Paris Potty Trainer, and Petite Confessions. She writes about the ups and downs of life in the City of Light at VickiLesage.com.

Buy now: http://www.amazon.com/Vicki-Lesage/e/B00HUZQUI4

 

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Tom Reeves, author of Dining Out in Paris – What You Need to Know before You Get to the City of Light

Tom ReevesThere are many things to like about Paris, but for me the most pleasurable is the quality of the restaurants that one finds here. French chefs, restaurant managers, and staff have mastered the art of preparation and presentation of the food that they serve, the spirit of service, and the arrangement of the dining space. Each week, my wife and I look forward to dining out and then reporting on our experience in our weekly restaurant review.

 

Tom Reeves has been a confirmed Francophile since he first took an unpaid sabbatical in 1975 to travel to France to learn the language, see the country, and pursue a diploma in French language, literature, and civilization. Returning to California in 1978, he eventually realized that while he had left France, France had never left him. He moved back permanently in 1992. Reeves’ latest book Dining Out in Paris – What You Need to Know before You Get to the City of Light helps Paris-bound travelers understand French dining customs so that they feel comfortable when entering into a French restaurant for the first time.

Buy now: http://amzn.to/1nkgCyu

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Lily Heise, author of Je T’Aime…Me Neither

Lily HeiseThe thing I love the most about Paris is its joie de vivre. This is manifested in different ways, but I truly feel that Parisians celebrate life. They take the time to sip un petit café at the bar or a laugh over a glass of rosé en terrasse. They savor their meals over hours instead of gobbling down a quick bite. They spend Sunday afternoons in the park or taking in an exhibit at the city’s vast array of excellent museums. This energy keeps me here and keeps me alive!

 

 

Je t'aime... me neitherApril Lily Heise is a Canadian writer and romance expert based in Paris. Her writing has been featured in the Huffington Post, Conde Nast Traveler, Frommer’s, City Secrets, and DK Eyewitness Guides and other local and international publications. She is the author of Je T’Aime, Me Neither, a lively novelized memoir on her romantic misadventures and continues to share dating tips, stories, and travel features on her blog www.jetaimemeneither.com.

 

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Rosemary Flannery, author of Angels of Paris

Rosemary FlanneryThe truly great thing about Paris is its constant surprises. This evening Radio Classique offered a classical music concert sponsored by the RATP in the great hall of the Miromesnil metro station. The space was packed, the acoustics were perfect, and the violinist, Nemanja Radulovic, a brilliant young star. Tattooed, his huge mane of hair waving as he moved, his passion for the music was palpable, and the familiar pieces resounded as never before. This was not the first time Radulovic played in the metro: it was here at the age of 14, having moved with his family from Serbia to France after the Yugoslav Wars, that he began his career, busking for money. I felt truly grateful to have been part of such an original evening, and thought ‘only in Paris’. . .

 

Angels of ParisRosemary Flannery is an author, photographer and tour guide. She arrived in France in1989, just in time for the bicentenary of the Revolution and the inauguration of the Louvre museum and its Pyramid. Passionate about Parisian architecture, she wrote Angels of Paris: An Architectural Tour of the History of Paris, celebrating the illustration of angels in the city’s facades, fountains and rooftops. Released in 2012 by The Little Bookroom NYC and distributed by Random House, her book will be published in French this September as Les Anges de Paris: Voyage au coeur de Paris, by Editions Exergue.

 

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Leonard Pitt, author of Walks Through Lost Paris

Leonard PittParis is made for walking. There are walks I’ve been doing for over fifty years and they only get better. Like turning a rich soil and taking in the pungent aroma of fresh earth that flairs the nostrils with pleasure. An early morning when the cafes are just opening is best, before traffic, crowds, and tour buses. The city breathes Zen.

 

 

 

Walks through Lost ParisLeonard Pitt is an author, actor, and teacher. He lived in Paris for seven years in the 1960s and learned nothing about the city. It was only much later, in the 1990s, when he became shocked upon learning what he did not know that he started reading and researching everything he could about Paris and its history. As someone once said, “If you want to learn about something, write a book about it.” Leonard has written three books about Paris. His first, Walks Through Lost Paris was a bestseller in the French capital. In addition he has written, Paris, A Journey Through Time, and Paris Postcards, the Golden Age. His new book, My Brain On Fire, Paris and Other Obsessions, is a memoir. It will be published later this year by Counterpoint Press.

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On Bastille Day, Celebrate France’s Joie de vivre with Books by the Members of the Paris Writers’ Connection