Archive for the ‘cuisine’ Category

Our Bon Goût Restaurant Review – Sunugal

Wednesday, January 4th, 2012
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Alpha Diallo - Proprietor of Sunugal

Alpha Diallo, Proprietor of Sunugal
Photo by www.DiscoverParis.net

The restaurant Sunugal recently won the Marmite d’Or, an annual award given by the mayor’s office for the best Afro-Caribbean restaurant among the entries. We dined there recently to try the Thieboudienne, the Senegalese dish that won the prize. Read our review of this establishment in this month’s Paris Insights newsletter.

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Bonne Lecture!

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A Cooking Class with Chef François Rosati at the Cook & Coffee Showroom

Sunday, October 16th, 2011
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Ever on the lookout for information about how to prepare a better cup of coffee, I recently attended a cooking presentation at Cook & Coffee, a showroom in Paris set up to demonstrate Kenwood and DeLonghi cookware.

Cook & Coffee Showroom

Cook & Coffee Showroom
Photo by www.DiscoverParis.net

Chef François Rosati first demonstrated how to make choux pastry using the Kenwood Cooking Chef, a mixer that cooks as it stirs. It is a beautiful machine that prepares breads, pastries, risottos, and a zillion other things. It was fun to watch Chef Rosati operate the device and even better to taste the finished pastries that had been baked in advance. (I had half expected the marvelous machine to bake the pastries and was disappointed to see that they had to be formed, using a pastry bag, on a baking sheet and then popped into a preheated oven.)

Chef François Rosati with the Kenwood Cooking Chef

Chef François Rosati with the
Kenwood Cooking Chef
Photo by www.DiscoverParis.net

Following this presentation, Chef Rosati demonstrated the DeLonghi Lattissima+, a “one-touch” espresso machine and milk steamer that uses Nespresso capsules. He prepared a three-layered cappuccino: the bottom layer was a purée of green apple (prepared using the Kenwood machine); the middle layer was hot espresso; and the top layer was frothy, steamed milk. Chef Rosati told us that this drink was invented by Michel Roth, chef at the Ritz hotel. I was skeptical but tried it. To drink it, one is supposed to use a spoon to draw the apple purée at the bottom of the cup up through the layers of coffee and milk. Although I thought that the idea was clever, I did not find the combination of the three ingredients to be particularly appealing. I prefer my cappuccino prepared in the traditional way!

Cappuccino Prepared with Purée of Green Apple

Cappuccino Prepared with
Purée of Green Apple
Photo by www.DiscoverParis.net

Cook & Coffee
3, rue Paul Cézanne
75008 Paris
Tel: 01.53.75.44.44
Open Tuesday through Saturday from 10:00 a.m. to 7:00 p.m.

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Modernist Cuisine By Nathan Myhrvold

Sunday, October 9th, 2011
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Nathan Myhrvold

Nathan Myhrvold
Photo by www.DiscoverParis.net

Ambassador Rivkin and Nathan Myhrvold

Ambassador Rivkin and Nathan Myhrvold
Photo by www.DiscoverParis.net

We had the good fortune to be invited to a reception at the American ambassador’s residence last night where Nathan Myhrvold was the guest of honor. Among other achievements, Myhrvold is the co-author of Modernist Cuisine, a six-volume book on the art and science of cooking. This is an amazing book, which shows in glorious photographs what happens when you apply heat to food. Though priced way too high for the average person who cooks at home and wants to understand the chemical and physical processes of food preparation (400€ on the Continent), it will undoubtedly help professional chefs who want to improve their cooking techniques. For those who are not professional cooks, if they can get a hold of a copy we are certain that they will spend many happy hours just browsing through the fantastic photographs.

Monique Y. Wells, co-founder of Discover Paris! and Nathan Myhrvold co-author of Modernist Cuisine

Monique Y. Wells, co-founder of Discover Paris!
and Nathan Myhrvold, co-author of Modernist Cuisine
Photo by www.DiscoverParis.net

Mr. Myhrvold is in Europe to promote the European editions of his book. It will soon be released in French, Spanish, and German. Myhrvold is hobnobbing with some of France’s greatest chefs as part of this effort—Pierre Hermé and Jacques Le Divellec were among the invitees for the Ambassador’s soirée on Saturday, and Myhrvold met with Alain Ducasse on Friday evening.

Ambassador Rivkin introduced Myhrvold—I do not remember his exact words—as being a modern-day Diderot. Denis Diderot was a major figure of the Enlightenment and co-founder and chief editor of an encyclopedia published in France between 1751 and 1772 that helped change the way people viewed the world. I do not think it an exaggeration to say—and this is probably what Ambassador Rivkin said—that Myhrvold’s book Modernist Cuisine will change the way that people view cooking and food.

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Modernist Cuisine By Nathan Myhrvold

Ile aux Cerfs – An Inexpensive Restaurant in Paris

Wednesday, June 22nd, 2011
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On Saturday, I joined a Francophone group on a walking tour to explore Indian and Pakistani culture in Paris.  For lunch, we went to the passage du Prado in the 10th arrondissement, where a number of inexpensive restaurants can be found.

Ile aux Cerfs
Photo by Discover Paris!

Because of limited space in the small restaurants there, our group split into two.  A number of us ate at Ile aux Cerfs, an establishment that specializes in the cuisine of the island of Mauritius.  Mauritian cuisine is a blend of Indian, African, Chinese, and European influences.

Briani Poisson Capitaine
Photo by Discover Paris!

The menu offers a wide variety of dishes, including goat, fish, beef, and chicken.  Most of the dishes are served with rice and a vegetable.  I spotted Briani Poisson Capitaine, a rice-based fish dish, for only 5.50€.

I was served a portion of perch (capitaine), smothered in long-grain rice flavored with saffron and cinnamon and a “salad” of grated carrot.  The rice was quite savory, the fish was somewhat dry, and the grated carrot was fresh.  In spite of the dryness of the fish, I enjoyed this course.

The most expensive dishes on the menu were 8.50€.  One of my dining companions ordered one of these, the Carri Cabri P.D.Terre Riz Salade, a plate of stewed goat smothered in spicy gravy and served with potatoes, rice, and salad.

Cake Made with Manioc Flour
Photo by Discover Paris!

For dessert I ordered a cake made from manioc flour and dusted with grated coconut.  I wasn’t sure of what to expect, and was quite pleased to discover that it was delicious!  I later found a recipe for the cake on the Internet and learned that it contains not only manioc flour, but also coconut milk and eggs.  It has a silken, gelatinous texture, but because it is dusted with grated coconut, it can be picked up with the fingers to be eaten.  The portion of cake cost only 1.20€.

My total bill, including the fish dish, the cake, and a small bottle of sparkling water (beer and wine are not served here), came to 8.80€.  Quite a bargain for such a filling meal!

The small restaurant is a popular place and by the time we finished our meal many of the tables were occupied.

A confined dining area is one of the first things that one must learn to expect when dining in inexpensive restaurants in Paris.  (I sat elbow to elbow with the dining companions to my left and right during the meal.)  However, the restrictive space at Ile aux Cerfs is compensated by friendly service and a good, inexpensive meal.  It represents a great option for travelers on a limited budget.

Ile aux Cerfs
12, rue du Faubourg Saint-Denis
8 – 10, passage du Prado
75010 Paris
Telephone:  01.44.83.98.20

Metro: Strasbourg-Saint-Denis (Lines 4, 8, and 9)

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Moussa l’Africain

Wednesday, June 1st, 2011
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Tiep bou dienn and Riz Wolof
(c) Discover Paris!

To prepare our monthly restaurant review for this month’s newsletter, we dined at the restaurant Moussa l’Africain, where we enjoyed Tiep bou dienn, riz wolof and Poulet directeur général. We returned on another day to meet Chef Madi Niakaté and talk with him about his restaurant and the food that he serves there.

Learn about these delicious dishes and read about Chef Niakaté in our extensive review, “Le Bon Goût.” It appears today in the June issue of our newsletter Paris Insights. Access to the newsletter is by paid subscription.

Click here to read brief summary of the June issue, and here to enter a subscription.

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Chef Tsukasa Fukuyama of A & M Restaurant

Wednesday, May 18th, 2011
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Chef Tsukasa Fukuyama
(c) Discover Paris!

Chef Tsukasa Fukuyama hails from Osaka, the third largest city in Japan. At the age of thirteen, he became aware of French cuisine while watching a television show on the subject. This became his passion, and after formal training in a cooking school in Japan, he traveled to France, seeking work in the restaurant trade.

After working at a number of restaurants in Paris, he was eventually asked to join two other chefs in a partnership to open A & M restaurant. Chef Fukuyama has been the head chef there since the year 2000.

We recently enjoyed dining at his restaurant and have written an extensive review of our experience there.

Access to the review is by paid subscription to our newsletter Paris Insights. Click here to read a brief summary of the April edition, and here to enter a subscription.

Bonne lecture!

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J’aime Paris by Alain Ducasse

Wednesday, April 6th, 2011
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There are numerous restaurant guides available for the Paris-bound traveler to consult before making that dream trip to the City of Light, but the one that I have found that best describes the city’s culinary scene is the soon-to-be-published J’aime Paris: Mon Paris du goût en 200 adresses, by Alain Ducasse (April 2011, Alain Ducasse Edition).

J’aime Paris is a heavy book, weighing in at 4 lbs! It contains 596 pages, and is illustrated with sumptuous black-and-white and color photographs. Co-written with Frédérick E. Grasser Hermé, it is a lively account in words and pictures of some 230 establishments in Paris. While most of the places described are restaurants, the authors also include numerous marketplaces, kitchenware shops, specialty food shops, bars, bakeries, pastry shops, cheese shops, butcher shops, cafés, and more. The book is a veritable treasure-trove of information on the vast and varied world of gastronomy for which Paris is famous.

Although the brief accounts of each establishment are written in French, in my opinion, an understanding of the language is not necessary to enjoy and to learn from the book. It is amply illustrated with hundreds of photographs. The images by themselves effectively convey the passion that motivates Parisian restaurant and food shop owners, and the rich culture and traditions of the French gastronomic experience.

J’aime Paris by Alain Ducasse
Alain Ducasse Edition
Photographer: Pierre Monetta
Appears in bookshops in April 2011 – 35 €

A full review of J’aime Paris is available to the subscribers of our monthly newsletter Paris Insights.

Access to the newsletter is by paid subscription. Click here to view the announcement of the newsletter that features the book review. Click here to enter a subscription.

Bonne lecture!

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Americans Dominate the French Food Spirit Awards

Wednesday, February 16th, 2011
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Two Americans, a Franco-American, and an Italian were recently honored at the 2010 French Food Spirit Awards.

The French Food Spirit Awards was founded in 2002 by the French organization L’Association Nationale des Industries Alimentaires (National Association of Food Industries) to promote the spirit of French food culture throughout the world. Its manifesto endorses values that it declares essential to this spirit: product accessibility, preservation of nature, product quality, entrepreneurship, scientific research, and regional diversity.

The jury was comprised of three Americans, seven French, one Japanese, and one Luxembourger. Representing diverse areas of endeavor—including journalism, science, photography, and gastronomy—they selected four prize winners from a field of 175 candidates from all over the world. Their decision was made on the basis of the candidates’ contributions to the understanding of French food culture and the values upon which the Food Spirit Awards are founded.

Each of the winners was presented a Daum crystal trophy.

The first award ceremony took place on December 16, 2010 at the Italian Embassy in Paris, where the trophy was presented to Paola Bonfante for her work on the sequencing of the genome of the black truffle of Perigord, a fungus that is an important part of French food culture.

Max McCalman (left)
Jean-Pierre d'Estienne d'Orves (right)
Photo courtesy of French Food Spirit Awards

The second award ceremony took place on January 27, 2011 at the Robert restaurant, located atop the Museum of Arts & Design in New York City. There, the Secretary General of the French Food Spirit Awards, Jean-Pierre d’Estienne d’Orves, praised cheese advocate Max McCalman’s role in promoting artisanal cheeses in the United States.

Two other trophies were presented in private ceremonies. One went to Ariane Daguin, founder and CEO of D’Artagnan Inc. This company is a distributer of top-quality pork and poultry products, including foie gras, for which she played an important role in introducing the product into the United States. The other went to Meryl Streep for her outstanding performance in the movie Julie & Julia. The jury concluded that her role in the film was a tribute to everyday French gastronomy.

Having lived in France for eighteen and a half years, we have come to appreciate the cuisine of this country and the enthusiasm that the French display for their products. We are pleased that three Americans have been honored by this organization, and that, thanks to their efforts, all Americans can enjoy the French food spirit!

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Crêpes for Candlemas

Wednesday, February 2nd, 2011
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Two Crêpes
(c) Discover Paris!

Just as the 2010 holiday season was fading into distant memory, we are jolted back to the reality that today, February 2, is the last day of Christmas. For today is Candlemas (La Chandeleur in French), the celebration of the presentation of Jesus at the temple. Crêpes are traditionally prepared and consumed on this day.

We purchased two freshly-made crêpes from La Moisson, a bakery located just below rue Mouffetard at 2, rue Bazeilles, in the 5th arrondissement. If you do not eat them immediately, crêpes are best prepared by carefully unfolding them, placing them on a warm skillet, melting a pat of butter on them, and adding a sprinkling of sugar. Nutella (the brand name of a chocolate sauce containing ground hazelnuts) is a favorite filling in France for these ultra-thin pancakes.

Most readers of this blog do not enjoy the convenience of a neighborhood bakery that sells crêpes. For detailed instructions on how to make them, follow this link.

Bon appétit!

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Lilane – A Fine-dining Neighborhood Restaurant

Saturday, January 1st, 2011
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Chef Stéphane Guilçou of Lilane
(c) Discover Paris!

Located near place Monge, on the corner of rues Gracieuse and Pestalozzi, Lilane is a wonderfully atypical neighborhood restaurant. It offers excellent cuisine in sophisticated yet modest surroundings, and provides service with a smile.

In this month’s Le Bon Goût, a feature of our newsletter Paris Insights, we review this restaurant and present its chef, Stéphane Guilçou.

Access to the newsletter is by paid subscription. Click here to read a brief summary of the January edition, and here to enter a subscription.

Bonne lecture!

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