Le Bon Goût – Our Monthly Restaurant Review

April 16th, 2010
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Franck and Karine Marchesi-Grandi
Chef and Proprietors of L'Agrume
(c) Discover Paris!

On the first of each month, we publish a restaurant review, which we call “Le Bon Goût,” for the readers of our Paris Insights newsletter. In it, we not only describe our dining experience, but also write about the chef or the proprietor, and illustrate the review with a photograph of him or her.

We have been reviewing restaurants for many years, and have met many chefs and proprietors who are passionate about the art of preparing great cuisine. By writing about them, we hope that we can communicate their passion to you, their customer.

In this month’s Le Bon Goût, we review a restaurant called L’Agrume. Operated by husband and wife team Franck and Karine Marchesi-Grandi, their small restaurant serves up great food at modest prices.

Access to the review is available to paid subscribers of our newsletter. To enter a subscription, click here.

Promenade with Patrick Jouin – Part 5

April 13th, 2010
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Second Floor Dining Room of Sombath Restaurant
(c) Discover Paris!

Patrick Jouin met us at two restaurants that he redesigned. The first, called Sombath, is a Thai restaurant whose cultural references he rendered so abstractly that it could pass for any type of expensive restaurant serving any kind of cuisine. Colors in scintillating gold, bold orange, and soft creams are supposed to call to mind temple treasures, women’s dresses and rice paddies. To the designer perhaps! But for me, entering into the restaurant was like entering into a kind of Starship Enterprise equipped with padded walls and gentle curves to protect the diners in the event of a sudden stop.

The restaurant seems to have been deliberately designed to force the diner to set aside any preconceived notions that he may have held about Thailand. It is an intellectual exercise that I would not want to be obliged to engage in when sitting down to enjoy a good Thai meal. Give me a Thai restaurant that looks like a Thai restaurant!

American Students “Ain’t Misbehavin'” in Seine-Saint-Denis

April 8th, 2010
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McDonogh 35 College Preparatory High School Students of New Orleans
Photograph courtesy of Banlieues Bleues

Twelve students from McDonogh 35 College Preparatory High School in New Orleans, their director, and a supporting cast of student musicians, singers, and dancers from conservatories and colleges of Paris and the Parisian suburbs gave a spectacular performance of Ain’t Misbehavin’ last weekend at the Banlieues Bleues festival in La Courneuve, a commune in the administrative département of Seine-Saint-Denis. Xavier Lemettre, director of the festival, wanted the musical—the first performed in Banlieues Bleues’ 27 years of existence—to inject new, artistic energy into the multi-week celebration. Based on what I saw at the performance, he greatly succeeded!

Ain’t Misbehavin’ is a tribute to song writer, musician, and composer Fats Waller and other musicians of the Harlem Renaissance. The show’s director, Troy Poplous, has extensive experience in directing stage plays and musical productions, including Lorraine Hansberry’s A Raisin In The Sun, as well as the musical version of this play. Among his current activities, he teaches Theatre Arts and Fine Arts at the McDonogh 35 High School. Funding for the American students’ trip to Paris was provided by the Consulate General of France of New Orleans.

Yves Saint Laurent Enters the Spotlight, Again

By A. D. McKenzie

April 6th, 2010
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Yves Saint Laurent Exhibition Photographer: A. McKenzie

Nearly two years after his death, French designer Yves Saint Laurent is still a major presence in the fashion world. Now, a retrospective exhibition of his creations is pulling in the crowds in Paris, proving that his designs have lasting relevance.

The show features more than 300 haute-couture and ready-to-wear garments, organized thematically. It includes Saint Laurent’s beginnings with Dior in 1957, and gives viewers a taste of his revolutionary early collections, including the famous trapeze dress and the pantsuit for women.

“It has often been said that Chanel freed women. This is true. Then years later Saint Laurent came along and further liberated women,” said Pierre Bergé, the designer’s lifelong partner who co-founded the Yves Saint Laurent fashion house in 1961.

“He took inspiration from the male wardrobe and gave women the trouser suit, the safari jacket and the smock suit,” Bergé told journalists. He added that Saint Laurent wanted to make sure that not only rich women could afford to wear his designs, so he also created special clothing for the ordinary working woman.

The exhibition covers 40 years of Saint Laurent’s work, and includes drawings, videos, and photographs of the designer and some of his famous clients such as actress Catherine Deneuve.

It is the first exposition of this kind at the Petit Palais (Paris’ Museum of Fine Arts), and organizers said that only someone of Saint Laurent’s stature could merit such an honor.

“In addition to being a fashion designer, Yves Saint Laurent was a remarkable artist, and one whose oeuvre has a rightful place in the museum’s long series of exhibitions of the Masters,” said Gilles Chazal, director of the Petit Palais.

The clothing on display reveals that Saint Laurent himself was inspired by artists such as Van Gogh, Mondrian, Picasso, and Monet, among others. One of the first things that strikes museum-goers is his daring use of color and the artistic nature of the garments.

The exhibition runs until 29 Aug. 2010.

We wish to thank A. D. McKenzie for her contribution to the Paris Insights blog.

Spoken Word in Paris

April 2nd, 2010
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David Barnes
Founder of Spoken Word in Paris
(c) Discover Paris!

Our feature article in this month’s Paris Insights is about Spoken Word, an open-microphone event held Monday nights at a bar called Culture Rapide. Founded by David Barnes, an Englishman living in Paris, Spoken Word provides an opportunity for aspiring poets, writers, singers, and actors to read or perform their works before a friendly audience. Each participant gets five minutes to give his or her presentation. On the two evenings that we attended, we enjoyed presentations of poetry, songs, comedy routines, and improvisational acting. On one of the evenings, we watched a short film about a star-crossed love affair between a robot and a human, created by a young woman for a film class project. People of many different nationalities participate, mostly in English, but some in French. Spoken Word is a great occasion for travelers to Paris to experience the vibrant cultural mix of the city, whether as an observer or as a participant!

Promenade with Patrick Jouin – Part 4

March 30th, 2010
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Patrick Jouin Talks about Urban Design
(c) Discover Paris!

During the promenade with Patrick Jouin, he presented his ideas about how his designs for street furniture fit in with the Parisian scene: “Because Paris is unique, we should create street furnishings in its image…There should not be a striking contrast.” For the Velib’ bicycle project, Mr. Jouin created bicycle attachment points to resemble blades of grass bending in the wind. The information and payment terminal has a form round and supple, like that of the trunk of a tree. Angles have been suppressed, and the result is a bicycle station that is pleasing to the eye.

His plant-inspired motifs are based upon a style of art and architecture called Art Nouveau that was popular in Paris (and in other cities) around the turn of the 20th century, particularly the style that was developed by Hector Guimard for the entrances of the metro stations.

Velib' Bicycle Station
(c) Discover Paris!

Promenade with Patrick Jouin – Part 3

March 27th, 2010
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Patrick Jouin took great care to fit the new generation of outdoor public toilets into the existing decor of the city. For the exterior design, he found inspiration in Hector Guimard’s Art Nouveau entrances to Paris’ underground metro stations. The result is a graceful curve at the top of the sanisette that terminates in an overarching roof, providing some shelter for persons waiting outdoors in the rain.

For the interior design, he first commissioned a study to determine how people use a public toilet and what might be the source of their reluctance to use one. The interior of the new sanisette takes into account many of the concerns that were revealed by the study. For example, it is more roomy than the old model, and the roof is translucent, allowing natural lighting to filter in. Many subtle changes were incorporated, including the positioning of the toilet on the sidewalk, out of the flow of pedestrian traffic.

Like the old model, the new one is self-cleaning after each use (the toilet bowl retracts and is washed, and the floor is washed).

The success of his design will be measured by the public acceptance of the units, especially by women, who were reluctant to use the old model. I used a new sanisette recently and found the experience, including such simple tasks as soaping, washing, and drying hands, much more agreeable than my experience with the old model, some of which still exist in neighborhoods around the city.

Patrick Jouin Talks about His New Sanisette
(c) Discover Paris!

Promenade with Patrick Jouin – Part 2

March 24th, 2010
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Calvi, Proprietor of Do Porto A Roma
(c) Discover Paris!

During the promenade with Patrick Jouin, the majority of the group stopped at a delicatessen near the Centre Pompidou for lunch. The owner, Calvi, posed for a photograph in front of his establishment. The restaurant/delicatessen is located at 169, rue Saint-Martin and is open from Tuesday to Sunday from 10:00 a.m. to 8:00 p.m. Along with antipasti and pizza, Calvi sells Italian cannoli and Portuguese pastéis de nata. Yum!

Promenade with Patrick Jouin – Part 1

March 21st, 2010
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Patrick Jouin at the Centre Pompidou
(c) Discover Paris!

On Saturday, March 13, I joined a group called Promenades Urbaines for a walk around Paris with Patrick Jouin, an architect who has been involved in the creation of a number of projects for the city. Mr. Jouin calls himself (in French) a designer. I’m not sure what the equivalent would be in English, but it would encompass architecture as well as interior and industrial design. In any event, there is no denying his creative spirit and enthusiasm for the projects that he has been engaged in. The promenade took us all over Paris to view a number of his works in the public and in the private sectors, including the new generation of outdoor public toilets, or sanisettes (of which he is particularly proud), and the Velib’ bicycle stations. In the private sector, he has designed cooking utensils, eating utensils, lamps, and chairs, as well as the interiors of restaurants, including Alain Ducasse’s posh Plaza Athénée. I plan to present some of his creations in future blog entries. In the meantime, travelers to Paris can visit an exhibition of his works, entitled Patrick Jouin, La substance du design, at the Centre Pompidou through May 24.

Chocolate for Saint Patrick’s Day

March 17th, 2010
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Patrick Roger's Saint Patrick's Day Chocolate
(c) Discover Paris!

Curious to see if any chocolate boutiques in Paris were selling special chocolate confections for Saint Patrick’s Day, we inquired at numerous shops over a period of several days. We were surprised to learn that one sales clerk had never heard of the holy man! Others had prepared or were preparing their molds for Easter, but had no plans to honor Saint Patrick. During our research, we also learned that the wonderful cacao-whisky sorbet made by Berthillon contains Scotch, not Irish, whisky.

Finally, Gary Lee Kraut told us that we could find chocolates for Saint Patrick’s day at Patrick Roger. We quickly learned that only the Roger boutique on avenue Victor Hugo still had a supply. When I entered the store, none other than the great chocolate craftsman himself was there! I was able to purchase some of the last few ganaches that they had in stock.

Patrick Roger’s special chocolates are made with Guinness, the famous Irish dry stout. Although we found the confection to be rich, smooth, and deliciously bittersweet, we could not taste the Guinness. Later, I entered Connolly’s Corner, an Irish pub, and purchased a half-pint of the brew. To my taste, the beer has a mild chocolaty flavor, which would account for its imperceptibility in the chocolate ganache.

Happy St. Patrick’s Day!

Master Craftsman Patrick Roger
(c) Discover Paris!